Replacing the Fuel Supply Hose on a 2013 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 4x4
Shop parts for a 2013 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 4X4 ATV.
Gasoline deserves more respect than most garage jobs get. Before a single clamp comes loose on a 2013 Sportsman 800 EFI 4x4, the space around the machine needs to be set up so a spill or a whiff of vapor is a nuisance rather than an emergency. Get that part right and the rest of this repair is honest, satisfying work that an intermediate wrench can knock out in an afternoon.
Ventilation, Vapor, and Common Sense
Gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It does not rise and drift out a window; it settles along the floor and can travel across a closed garage to reach an ignition source. Open the overhead door fully or push the Sportsman outside altogether. Shut off any water heater pilot, kill space heaters, and put away grinders and anything else that throws sparks. Keep the battery disconnected the entire time a fitting is open, wear nitrile or rubber gloves so you are not soaking your hands, and transfer drained fuel directly into a sealed, fuel–rated container instead of letting it sit in an open pan.
Identifying the Fuel System on This Machine
The 800 EFI is fuel injected, and every step here follows from that. A pump lives inside the tank and pressurizes the supply hose running forward to the throttle body, which means there is no petcock to switch off and no carburetor bowl to drain. The system holds pressure after shutdown, so bleeding it is mandatory before you open a joint. The filter is bundled with the pump inside the tank rather than being an inline canister you can reach, which is worth knowing before you go looking for one. This is also a 4x4 chassis, so the hose passes front differential hardware and extra frame structure, adding a few clips to release compared with a lighter two–wheel–drive machine.
Tools and Parts to Have Staged
- Hose rated for fuel injection pressure in the original inside diameter
- New clamps matched to the fittings, or a quick–connect release tool if the tank end locks
- Line–clamping pliers, the substitute for the petcock this machine does not have
- Gloves, eye protection, drain pan, and a sealed fuel container
- Razor knife, flat blade screwdriver, socket set, flashlight, shop rags
The Reasons Hose Fails on an Older Utility Quad
Fuel hose degrades on two fronts simultaneously. From the outside in, heat cycling and simple age strip out the plasticizers that keep rubber pliable, turning a flexible hose into something rigid and crack prone. Dry, low humidity climates accelerate that process noticeably, since arid air draws moisture out of the hose wall and hardens it sooner. Once the material has stiffened, every mile of washboard trail and every bit of chassis flex works surface checking into deeper fissures.
From the inside out, ethanol–blended pump gas is the culprit. Alcohol attracts water, and fuel left standing in the hose over a long layup attacks the liner, softening it and freeing particles that migrate toward the injectors. That is the frustrating part of hose life: the outside stiffens while the inside erodes, and neither is easy to judge with a glance. On a Sportsman of this age, replacing on the basis of years in service is entirely reasonable.
Symptoms of a Line on the Way Out
- A puddle, wet stain, or tacky residue under the machine after it sits overnight
- Persistent fuel smell near the tank, strongest immediately after shutdown
- Cracks, a chalky gray surface, or hard sections detectable by squeezing the hose
- Bogging, hesitation, or a lean feeling under throttle even with plenty of fuel aboard
- Grit welded around a fitting by fuel that has seeped and evaporated many times
Remember that a leak in a pressurized line frequently produces odor without a single drop reaching the ground, because escaping fuel atomizes. Do not wait for a puddle to take the smell seriously.
Removing the Old Hose
Relieve system pressure first by pulling the fuel pump fuse or relay and cranking the engine until it dies. Key off, battery negative disconnected. Remove the seat and enough front bodywork to see the tank fittings and follow the hose to its lower connection.
Put the pan under the joint you plan to open and drape a rag over it, since residual fuel will run out even after bleeding. Slide worm gear clamps well back along the hose first. On a quick–connect, compress the locking tabs squarely and pull the fitting straight off — prying at an angle is how decade old plastic collars break. If varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, slit the hose lengthwise and peel it away instead of twisting on the fitting. Photograph clip locations and clearance points before the old hose leaves the chassis.
Fitting the New Line and Checking Your Work
Cut the replacement to match the original length precisely, then dry fit it along the same path. Seat each end fully onto its barb, all the way to the shoulder, with nothing on the sealing surface. Grease and oil actively hurt here, since a lubricated barb gives pressurized fuel a path to creep out from under the clamp. Warm water briefly softens a tight hose end and makes it slide.
Install new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and snug them evenly. If the tank side uses a self–locking quick–connect, push it until it clicks and then tug to verify the latch caught; no clamp goes on that style. Route the hose back through every clip so it stays clear of the front prop shaft and hot exhaust.
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without starting so the pump charges the line. Inspect both joints while everything around them is still dry, then wipe the area, start the engine, and check again at idle for several minutes. Once nothing weeps, the plastics can go back on. If the 800 continues to act fuel starved after a clean install, the in–tank pump and filter assembly is the logical next step.
Related Shopping Categories
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.