Changing the Fuel Line on a 2013 Polaris Scrambler XP 850 H.O.
Shop parts for a 2013 Polaris Scrambler XP 850 H.O. ATV.
There are repairs you do because something broke and repairs you do because something is about to. Fuel line replacement on a 2013 Scrambler XP 850 H.O. belongs firmly in the second category. Hose that has been on the machine since it left the crate has been aging the entire time, and on an injected quad the consequences of ignoring it are more serious than a slow drip.
Know the System Before You Reach for a Wrench
The XP 850 H.O. is fuel injected. Its high-output ProStar twin is fed by an electric pump living inside the fuel tank, which means fuel moves under pressure rather than by gravity and there is no petcock anywhere to shut off. Raise the seat and you will see the pump and sender module bolted through the tank shell with a wiring connector plugged in, and the supply hose leaving it frequently ends in a plastic quick-connect collar instead of a bare barb with a clamp.
Because that circuit stays pressurized after the key comes out, the first move is electrical, not mechanical. Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine until it starves and dies, switch off the key, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. This is also an all-wheel-drive chassis, so the front differential and the frame structure carrying it sit close to the hose path. Nothing about the procedure changes, but you will be reaching into a narrower space than a two-wheel-drive quad would offer.
Where Old Hose Goes Wrong
The rubber in a fuel line depends on additives that keep it flexible, and those additives leave the material steadily over the years. A hose that once bent easily becomes firm, then hard, then prone to splitting at the exact points where it flexes or where a clamp concentrates stress. Engine bay heat and constant trail vibration both push that timeline forward.
Meanwhile the fuel itself is a factor. Ethanol-blended gasoline attracts water, and any Scrambler that sits for months with E10 standing in the line ends up with a degraded inner liner and gum deposits that eventually let go. Riders in dry, high-desert country see the outer surface craze earliest, because low humidity draws moisture out of the hose wall and embrittles it from the outside. On a machine this age, both processes have had plenty of time to work.
Reading the Evidence
Before you commit to the job, look for confirmation:
- Fuel visible on the skid plate, or a dried stain on the floor where the quad parks
- A gasoline odor concentrated near the tank, sharpest in the first few minutes after shutdown
- Fine cracks, a chalky surface, or a section that has lost all flexibility
- The engine bogging when loaded, breaking up at higher rpm, or acting starved with plenty of fuel in the tank
- A crust of dirt collected in a band at a fitting, which is what repeated seepage leaves behind
Because this system is pressurized, small leaks frequently atomize instead of dripping. A strong fuel smell without a visible puddle is not a false alarm and should not be dismissed.
What You Need on Hand
Gather everything before the system is open, because hunting for a tool while holding a disconnected fuel line is how gasoline ends up across the floor:
- Nitrile or rubber gloves, since gasoline defats skin quickly and carries solvents through it
- A sealed, fuel-rated container for whatever you drain
- Replacement hose rated for injection pressure in the correct inside diameter, not general purpose carburetor line
- New clamps matching the style installed, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler sits at the tank
- Line-clamping pliers, which do the work the absent petcock cannot
- Sockets for the seat and plastics, a small flat-blade screwdriver, and a generous supply of clean rags
Then think about the room you are working in. Gasoline vapor is denser than air, so it drifts down and pools at floor level where pilot lights and shop heaters live. Work outdoors if the weather allows. Indoors, open the overhead door completely and run a fan low to the ground moving air out, keep every ignition source clear of the area, and set an extinguisher within arm's reach before you start.
Getting the Old Line Off Cleanly
With pressure relieved and the battery disconnected, pull the seat and the side panels so the entire hose run is exposed from tank to throttle body. Slide a catch pan beneath the low point and cup a rag around each fitting as it comes apart, since even a bled line holds residual fuel.
Walk spring clips and worm-gear clamps a few inches back along the hose before disturbing the joint. Quick-connect couplers require both tabs depressed squarely and a straight pull; a decade-old plastic collar will crack if you lever it off at an angle. Where fuel varnish has bonded hose to barb, break the seal with a gentle twist rather than a hard yank, and if it still holds, slit the hose lengthwise with a blade and peel it away. The fitting is worth protecting and the hose is not. Photograph the routing, every clip, and every clearance point around the front driveline before the old line is completely free.
Fitting the New Hose and Proving the Work
Cut the replacement to the same length as the piece you removed. Slack is not a benefit here; a hose left long rubs on a frame edge or drifts toward the front driveline. Push both ends fully onto their fittings until they seat against the shoulder, and assemble everything dry. Grease, oil, and silicone all stay in the toolbox, because any lubricant film on a sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a path to weep past the clamp. If a hose end resists, soften it in hot water for a few seconds.
Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly, snug enough to seal without crushing the hose. A self-locking quick-connect on the tank side pushes on until it clicks and needs no clamp at all; confirm it has latched with a firm pull. Restore the hose to every original clip so it stays clear of exhaust heat and moving parts.
Finish with a real leak test. Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking, letting the pump load the line with pressure each time. Wipe both connections with a clean light-colored rag and watch for any stain returning. Then start the engine, let it idle for several minutes, and inspect once more with the system hot and fully pressurized. Only then should the plastics and seat go back on.
One thing a new hose will not address: the fuel filter on this injected Scrambler is part of the pump assembly inside the tank rather than an inline canister on the visible line. If the machine still feels like it is running out of fuel after a dry, leak-free installation, the in-tank module is the next place to look.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2013 Polaris Scrambler XP 850 H.O. ATV.
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Shop Petcocks for a 2013 Polaris Scrambler XP 850 H.O. ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2013 Polaris Scrambler XP 850 H.O. ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2013 Polaris Scrambler XP 850 H.O. ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.