Fuel Line Inspection and Replacement for the 2013 Honda TRX500 Foreman Power Steering

Shop parts for a 2013 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM2) ATV.

The best time to replace a fuel line is a few months before it fails, and the only way to hit that window is to inspect it deliberately. On a 2013 Foreman with power steering the whole system is carbureted and gravity fed, so the hose you care about runs a short, visible path from the petcock beneath the tank to the carburetor inlet. That means a thorough inspection takes about five minutes once the seat is off.

A Real Inspection Routine

Work the hose from end to end with a light and your fingers:

  • Pinch along the full length. Healthy hose feels springy; failing hose feels hard, glassy, or chalky
  • Bend it gently and watch the outer surface for hairline cracks that open under flex
  • Check both fittings for a damp band with dirt stuck to it, the classic sign of a slow weep
  • Look for flattened or shiny spots where the hose has been rubbing a frame tube or clip
  • Confirm the clamps are still tight and have not cut into softened rubber

Add the running symptoms to that list. Bogging under load, a lean stumble as you open the throttle, or an engine that acts starved with plenty of fuel in the tank all point toward restricted or leaking supply. A gasoline smell that lingers hours after shutdown, or a puddle on the skid plate, moves the job from monitoring to doing. A gravity–fed carbureted quad like this one usually leaves visible evidence, unlike an injected machine where pressurized fuel tends to mist off before it drips.

How the Hose Deteriorates

Two processes run in parallel. On the outside, the plasticizers that keep the rubber flexible slowly leach away, and heat cycling from the 475cc single pushes that along. What remains is stiff tubing that cracks rather than flexes. Dry climates accelerate the whole thing by drawing moisture out of the hose wall and hardening it from the surface inward, which is why the same hose lasts longer in a humid shed than in an open desert carport.

On the inside, ethanol–blended gasoline attracts water and degrades the liner, and long idle periods with fuel sitting in the system give it time to do so. That produces a hose that is brittle outside and gummy inside. Since this Foreman feeds a carburetor, the material that liner releases ends up in the float bowl, so replacing an old line and draining the bowl natuRally go together.

Getting Ready to Work

Lay out gloves, an approved sealed container for drained fuel, replacement hose in the correct inside diameter, new clamps or a clamp kit, a flat–blade screwdriver, sockets for the seat and fenders, a razor blade, and plenty of rags. Use a sealed LED light rather than anything with an exposed bulb.

Then handle the air. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles at floor level right where your head will be, so pull the machine outdoors or open the overhead door all the way rather than relying on a window. Turn off heaters with standing pilot flames, unplug the battery charger, and keep spark–producing tools out of the area until the fuel is contained and the caps are back on.

Taking the Line Off

Rotate the petcock to OFF. That valve is the practical advantage of a carbureted Foreman, since an injected quad has no petcock and requires pulling a pump fuse and bleeding line pressure before a fitting can be opened safely. Remove the seat and the panels over the tank so the hose is accessible at both ends.

Slide a catch pan underneath and open the float bowl drain screw to empty the carburetor before you separate anything. Move both clamps well back along the hose, then break each end loose with a gentle twist rather than force, because years of varnish effectively glue the rubber to the barb. If a hose end will not release, slit it lengthwise and peel it off instead of levering on the brass spigot, which can crack.

Note the routing as it comes out. With 4x4 hardware and a front differential taking up room, the line passes through more frame clearance points than a two–wheel–drive quad would need, and every clip along that path is keeping it off exhaust heat and away from steering movement.

Installing and Proving the New Line

Cut the replacement to match the original length precisely. Extra hose chafes on the frame or catches at full lock, and a short piece pulls at both fittings until one seeps. Seat each end fully onto its barb and do it dry — grease, oil, and silicone all belong nowhere near a fuel fitting, since lubricant on the sealing surface gives fuel a route to creep out from under the clamp. If a hose end is too stiff to push on, warm it in hot water for a few seconds.

Fit new clamps just behind the raised bead at each end and tighten them evenly, firm enough to seal without crushing the rubber. Do not reuse clamps that have already taken a set. Route the hose back through its original clips with a smooth curve and no kinks anywhere along the run.

Close the float bowl drain screw, turn the petcock to ON, and let gravity fill the line and bowl while you watch both fittings. That static check catches most problems while everything is still clean. Wipe the joints, look again, then start the engine and idle it for several minutes with the bodywork off, since heat and vibration expose a marginal connection a static test will miss. Once it stays dry, reinstall the panels and give the tank vent hose a quick look too, because it has aged on the same schedule as the line you just replaced.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2013 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM2) ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2013 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM2) ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2013 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM2) ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2013 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM2) ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2013 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 POWER STEERING (FM2) ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.