Fuel Line Renewal on a 2013 Can-Am Renegade 1000
Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Bodywork comes off before anything else on the 2013 Renegade 1000, and that first look under the plastics tells you most of what you need to know. The 976cc Rotax V-twin here is fuel injected, fed by an electric pump housed inside the tank, so the hose running toward the throttle body is a pressurized component rather than a gravity line. That rules out the simple trick a carbureted quad allows, where you just close a petcock and start pulling clamps. On this machine, pressure gets relieved deliberately before a fitting is opened.
Access and Routing on This Chassis
The Renegade is a sport quad on a selectable four-wheel-drive platform, and that combination puts a lot of hardware in a compact space. The supply hose leaves the tank, passes frame bracing and the front driveline area, and ends at the throttle body under the airbox. Because the front differential and its associated structure are present, the line is routed with more clearance points than a two-wheel-drive machine would need. Removing the seat and both side panels first gives you a clean view of the whole run and keeps you from working blind with an open fitting in your hand.
The Reasons Rubber Fails
Two independent processes wear out fuel hose. The first is simple aging. Plasticizers that keep the rubber elastic gradually leave the material, and heat from the V-twin accelerates their departure. What remains is stiff and glassy, and vibration through the frame turns that stiffness into hairline splitting, almost always at a bend where stress concentrates. Machines living in dry, arid regions harden faster, since low humidity draws moisture out of the hose wall from the outside in.
The second process comes from what flows through the hose. Ethanol-blended gasoline absorbs water and slowly attacks the inner liner, softening it and depositing gum. A Renegade that goes unridden for stretches with fuel sitting in the system gives that reaction ample time. Between these two mechanisms, the outside can look serviceable while the inside is coming apart, which is why service life matters as much as visual condition on a machine now more than a decade old.
Symptoms That Should Get Your Attention
Do not wait for a hose to split. Look for:
- A puddle beneath the machine or fuel wetting the skid plate after it has sat
- A gasoline smell that hangs around the tank, typically strongest just after shutdown while pressure is still trapped
- Surface checking, a chalky white cast, or a length of hose that has gone rigid to the touch
- The engine bogging when you load it, running lean at higher rpm, or acting like the tank is nearly dry
- Grime collected in a ring at a fitting, which is dried residue from a slow weep
Pressurized leaks often atomize instead of dripping, so a persistent odor without a visible puddle is a real symptom, not a false alarm.
Supplies and Working Conditions
Bring all of this to the machine before starting:
- Rubber or nitrile gloves
- A fuel-rated container and a wide drain pan
- Injection-rated replacement hose in the original inside diameter, not carburetor-grade line
- Fresh clamps of the correct type, and a quick-disconnect release tool if the tank outlet uses a locking coupler
- Line-clamping pliers, which fill in for the petcock this model does not have
- Hand tools for the seat and plastics, a sharp razor knife, and clean rags
On the safety side, treat gasoline vapor as a liquid that flows downhill, because that is effectively how it behaves. It settles at floor level and lingers there, so work outside or with the door fully open and get air circulating low in the space. Unplug chargers and heaters, shut off any pilot flame, and keep an extinguisher at hand rather than across the shop.
Extraction of the Old Hose
Start by pulling the fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank the engine for a second or two until it dies of its own accord. Turn the key off and disconnect the negative battery cable. Position the drain pan, then lay a rag across the first joint you separate, since residual fuel remains in a depressurized line. Slide every clamp well back before applying force to a hose end.
Spring clips squeeze open with pliers, worm-gear clamps loosen and slide. For a quick-connect coupler, press the release tabs evenly and draw the fitting straight off; prying at an angle cracks the plastic collar, which grows brittle with age. Break the varnish bond at each barb with a gentle twist rather than a hard pull. If a hose end has cemented itself in place, slice it along its length with the razor and peel it off — the hose is scrap, the fitting is not. Snap a few photos of the routing and every retaining clip while the old line is still in position.
Putting the New Hose In
Match the replacement to the original length precisely. A long hose sags into the frame or the front driveline and wears through where it rubs, while a short one loads its fittings whenever the engine shifts on its mounts. Seat each end fully on its barb, all the way to the shoulder, and do it without lubricant of any kind. Grease and oil on a fuel fitting defeat the seal the clamp is trying to make and give pressurized fuel a route out. Soften a stubborn hose end in hot water for a few seconds instead.
Install the new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting, tightening evenly until they are firm without biting into the rubber. A self-locking quick-connect needs no clamp at all; push it until the collar clicks, then pull hard enough to prove it has latched. Return the hose to its factory clips, keeping it clear of exhaust heat and away from the front drive hardware.
Confirming a Dry System
Reinstall the pump fuse and Reconnect the battery, then cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle builds pressure in the circuit and lets you inspect both joints while the area is still dry and easy to read. Wipe the fittings with a clean rag, look for anything forming, then start the V-twin and repeat the inspection at idle. Follow the entire run with a flashlight. Only after several minutes of leak-free operation should the panels and seat return.
Keep one detail in mind about this platform: the fuel filter on the injected Renegade lives inside the tank as part of the pump module, not inline where you can service it from the hose. Replacing the line fixes the line. If the engine still behaves as though it is starving for fuel afterward, that in-tank assembly is the logical next stop.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2013 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2013 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2013 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2013 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2013 Can-Am Renegade 1000 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.