Replacing the Fuel Line on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P

Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P ATV.

Settle one question before any tool comes out of the box: what kind of fuel system does this machine use? The 2013 Outlander MAX 800R XT-P answers that clearly. The Rotax V-twin is electronically fuel injected, pulling from a pump submerged in the tank, which means there is no petcock to close and the hose remains pressurized after the key comes out. Everything about the procedure follows from that single fact.

Injected, Not Carbureted, and Why It Matters

On a carbureted quad, fuel drops by gravity through a petcock valve into a float bowl, and shutting the valve isolates the line entirely before work begins. This XT-P has no valve and no bowl. Its pump pushes fuel forward under pressure, and that pressure has to be released deliberately before a fitting is opened. The absence of a float bowl also removes the drain screw that a carbureted machine gives you for catching sediment, so anything shedding off a deteriorating hose travels toward the pump screen and injector. That raises the cost of ignoring a tired line.

The Two Directions a Hose Deteriorates

Externally, heat is the enemy. Plasticizers give fuel hose its flexibility, and repeated warm-up and cool-down cycles drive them out until the rubber is stiff and shiny. A hose that cannot flex with the chassis develops cracks at its bends, and machines in dry climates get there faster because low humidity draws moisture from the hose wall.

Internally, ethanol does the work. Blended pump gas absorbs water, and fuel that sits in the line during a long layup gums and softens the inner liner. Since the outer surface can still look reasonable while the inside crumbles, elapsed years matter as much as any visual check on a machine of this vintage.

Recognizing a Line on Its Way Out

Keep an eye and a nose out for:

  • Gasoline pooling on the skid plate or leaving a dried stain on the floor
  • A fuel smell strongest for a few minutes after shutdown, with pressure still in the circuit
  • Surface checking, a chalky texture, or a rigid stretch that refuses to compress
  • A dust-caked halo at a fitting where fuel has seeped and dried
  • Bogging under load, hesitation off a closed throttle, or lean surging at speed

Pressurized leaks are easy to miss. Fuel escaping a joint on a hot twin often atomizes and evaporates before it can drip, so a lingering odor deserves a hands-on inspection of the entire hose rather than a quick glance at the floor.

Tools, Supplies, and Ventilation

Collect all of this in advance:

  • Nitrile gloves and safety glasses
  • A shallow drain pan and a sealed, approved fuel container
  • Hose rated for injection pressure and sized to the original inside diameter
  • Line-clamping pliers to pinch off flow, since no petcock exists on this model
  • New clamps matching the originals plus a release tool if the tank fitting is a plastic quick-connect
  • Sockets and drivers for seat and panel hardware, a razor knife, and plenty of rags

Give ventilation real thought rather than a nod. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles low, so an open overhead door or an outdoor work area is the only reliable answer, and everything that sparks or holds a flame needs to leave the space first.

Removal Step by Step

Relieve pressure to begin. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine until it stalls, shut the key off, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and whatever bodywork blocks the hose run between tank and throttle body. Slide the pan under the area and lay a rag over the joint you open first, since a depressurized line still holds fuel that will spill.

Slide each clamp well back along the hose before disturbing the fitting. A quick-connect coupler comes apart when both tabs are depressed squarely and the body is pulled straight back; rocking it sideways cracks aged plastic. Twist a varnished hose gently on its barb to break the bond, and if it will not release, cut it lengthwise and peel it off rather than damaging the fitting underneath. Photograph the routing as you work, since this 4x4 chassis puts front differential hardware and additional crossmembers right where the line travels.

Installation, Leak Check, and Final Notes

Cut the new hose to match the original length. Extra slack finds an abrasive edge; too little keeps both barbs under tension as the XT-P suspension works the chassis. Seat each end fully onto its fitting and assemble dry. Grease, oil, and silicone never touch a fuel connection, because a lubricated sealing surface is the path pressurized gasoline uses to creep past a clamp. Hot water softens a stiff hose end if needed.

Install fresh clamps just behind the bead on each fitting, tightening evenly. Where a self-locking quick-connect handles the tank side, push until it clicks and pull firmly to confirm it caught, leaving it clamp free. Restore the hose to every original clip, then reinstall the pump fuse and Reconnect the battery.

Cycle the ignition on and off several times without cranking so the pump pressurizes the line, and inspect both joints while everything is dry. Wipe, look for beading, then start the engine and check again at idle as heat and vibration build. Panels go back last. And keep this in mind afterward: the filter on the injected XT-P is part of the in-tank pump module rather than an inline element, so ongoing lean running after a clean install points there rather than at your new hose.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P ATV.

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Shop Fuel Filters for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P ATV.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.