Replacing the Fuel Line on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R DPS

Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R DPS ATV.

There comes a point where inspecting a fuel line stops being useful and replacing it becomes the sensible move. A 2013 Outlander MAX 800R DPS is comfortably into that territory, since the hose has now spent more than a decade absorbing heat cycles from the Rotax V-twin and sitting full of ethanol-blended fuel between rides. This machine is fuel injected, not carbureted, so there is no petcock to close and the line holds pressure after shutdown.

When Age Alone Justifies the Job

A visual check finds obvious failures and misses the rest. Rubber can look perfectly acceptable on the outside while the inner liner has already begun breaking down, and the only reliable indicator on a machine this old is elapsed time. If the hose on your DPS has never been changed, it is original, and original hose on a decade-plus utility quad is a cheap part standing between you and a fuel leak on a pressurized circuit. Replacing it proactively costs an afternoon; discovering the failure ten miles from the truck costs considerably more.

The Two Ways Fuel Hose Dies

From the outside in, heat is the culprit. Plasticizers give the compound its flexibility, and repeated warm-up and cool-down cycles bake them out until the hose is hard and glossy. Once it can no longer flex with the chassis, cracks appear at every tight bend. In dry, low-humidity regions the hose hardens faster still, because the surrounding air wicks moisture straight out of the rubber.

From the inside out, ethanol does the damage. Blended pump gas attracts water, and fuel left standing in the line for months gums and softens the liner. The two processes proceed independently, so a hose can be crumbling internally while looking fine externally. On a carbureted quad the resulting debris settles in a drainable float bowl; the injected 800R DPS routes it toward the pump screen and injector instead.

Symptoms to Take Seriously

Any of these warrant a close look at the hose:

  • A fuel puddle or damp film on the skid plate or shop floor
  • Gasoline odor that peaks in the minutes after you shut the engine off, with pressure still in the line
  • Fine cracking, a chalky texture, or a section that will not compress when squeezed
  • Grit stuck in dried fuel residue around a fitting
  • Bogging under load, hesitation when the throttle is snapped open, or a lean surge at speed

Because the fuel is pressurized, small leaks often evaporate off hot engine surfaces before they drip. A dry floor does not clear the hose on this machine, so weigh the smell test as heavily as the visual one.

Tools, Parts, and Handling Gasoline

Have this ready:

  • Nitrile gloves and safety glasses
  • A low drain pan and a sealed approved container for recovered fuel
  • Hose rated for injection pressure, matched to the original inside diameter
  • Line-clamping pliers to pinch the hose closed in place of the petcock this model lacks
  • New clamps in the original style, and a release tool if the tank fitting is a plastic quick-connect
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat and panels, a sharp knife, and plenty of rags

Ventilate the space genuinely. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles at floor level, so an open overhead door or an outdoor work area beats a cracked window every time. Get chargers, shop heaters, and anything with a pilot light out of the area before you open a fitting, and keep gloves on since fuel strips skin oils quickly.

Taking the Old Line Off

Relieve system pressure first: pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine until it stalls, shut the key off, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and enough bodywork to expose the hose from the tank outlet forward to the throttle body. Slide the pan into position and cover the first joint with a rag, because a depressurized line still holds fuel.

Slide clamps back along the hose before touching the fitting. Quick-connect couplers separate under even tab pressure and a straight pull, and levering one sideways after ten-plus years is how the collar splits. Twist a varnished hose gently on its barb rather than pulling hard, and if it stays fused, cut it lengthwise and peel it off.

Pay attention to routing on the way out. This 4x4 chassis packs a front differential and its crossmembers into the same area, and the DPS steering hardware adds another component to work around up front, so the factory path is worth photographing clip by clip before the hose is free.

Installation and the Final Leak Check

Cut the replacement to the exact length of the original. Extra hose drifts into abrasive edges; a short piece pulls at both barbs whenever the frame twists. Seat each end fully onto its fitting, all the way to the shoulder, and assemble dry. Keep grease, oil, and silicone away from the connections entirely, since any lubricant film gives pressurized gasoline a path past the seal. Hot water is the only acceptable assembly aid for a stiff hose end.

Set fresh clamps just inboard of the bead and tighten them evenly. If the tank side uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until it clicks and pull firmly to confirm it latched, leaving it clamp free. Reroute the line through every original guide, then reinstall the fuse and Reconnect the battery.

Cycle the key on and off several times without cranking so the pump primes and pressurizes the new hose. Wipe both joints, then examine them closely for the faintest bead of fuel. Start the V-twin, let it idle, and inspect once more as heat and vibration come into play before any panels go back on. Worth remembering afterward: the filter on this injected Outlander is part of the in-tank pump module rather than an inline unit, so continued lean running after a leak-free install points to that assembly next.

Related Shopping Categories

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.