Fuel Line Replacement Walkthrough for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 XT

Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 XT ATV.

A hose costs a few dollars. Getting towed off a trail with a passenger on board costs a whole day. The 2013 Outlander MAX 500 XT pairs a Rotax 500 V-twin with electronic fuel injection, so the line you are replacing is pressurized by a pump inside the tank and there is no petcock to close before you start. Plan the job around that and it goes smoothly.

Before the First Fitting Comes Loose

Collect these and set them within reach:

  • Rubber or nitrile gloves plus eye protection
  • Fuel hose rated for injection pressure, matched to the original inside diameter
  • Correct-style clamps, or a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler is fitted
  • Line-clamping pliers, which take the place of the fuel valve this machine does not have
  • A catch pan and a sealed, fuel-rated container
  • A razor blade, a small flat-blade screwdriver, sockets for the seat and panels, and rags

Now the part that actually matters for your safety: gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It runs off the bench, down the machine, and pools in a layer across the floor where you will be kneeling for the next hour. Open the shop wide or work outside so air moves at ground level, shut off water heaters and furnaces with standing pilots, keep grinders and torches out of the building, and place a fire extinguisher next to the machine rather than on a distant wall.

Bleeding Down and Pulling the Old Line

Relieve pressure by pulling the fuel pump fuse, then run the engine until it stalls from starvation. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery negative cable so the pump cannot energize while your hands are in the fuel path. Take the seat and side plastics off for real access to both ends of the hose.

With the catch pan positioned, drape a rag over the joint you plan to open first. The hose still holds liquid fuel even after pressure is released. Slide clamps well back along the hose before disturbing a fitting. For a self-locking quick-connect, press the tabs evenly and draw the coupler straight off; prying at an angle cracks plastic that has hardened over ten years of sun and mud.

Where dried fuel varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, a gentle twist usually breaks it loose. If it does not, slit the hose lengthwise with the blade and peel it off the fitting. The hose is scrap either way; the fitting is not. Photograph the routing before the line is fully out, paying attention to the front of the chassis — this XT is a selectable 4x4, and the front differential and its hardware add clips and clearance points that a two-wheel-drive quad does not carry.

Putting the New Hose On

Measure the old hose and cut the replacement to match. A longer hose does not give you margin; it gives you a section that rubs on a frame tube or wanders into the steering. Seat each end fully onto its barb, past the retention bead, and do the whole thing dry. Grease, oil, and silicone all seem helpful and all create an escape path for pressurized fuel beneath a clamp. Soften a tight end in hot water if you need help.

Set new clamps immediately behind the bead on each fitting and tighten evenly, firm enough to seal without cutting into the rubber. Self-locking quick-connects want no clamp; push until the collar clicks and pull firmly to confirm engagement. Return the hose to its original guides so it stays away from exhaust surfaces and the front driveline.

Understanding the Failure You Just Fixed

Fuel hose degrades from both directions. Externally, heat from the V-twin drives plasticizers out of the rubber year after year, leaving a wall that has gone hard, and frame flex over rough terrain then works fine cracks into that hardened surface. Riders in dry inland climates see this arrive sooner, since low humidity draws moisture out of the material and speeds the stiffening.

Internally, ethanol-blended pump gas is the culprit. Alcohol attracts water, and fuel left sitting in the line for weeks slowly breaks down the inner liner, softening it and releasing debris toward the injectors. A hose can look entirely presentable while both processes are well advanced, which is precisely why replacement on age makes sense on a 2013 machine.

Symptoms to Watch For Going Forward

  • A puddle or damp film beneath the machine once it has been sitting
  • A gasoline smell lingering near the tank, strongest in the minutes after shutdown
  • Cracking, chalkiness, or a stiff section you can feel by pinching the hose
  • A ring of caked dirt at a fitting, where fuel has seeped and dried repeatedly
  • Bogging under load, a lean stumble, or the V-twin behaving as though the tank is empty

On an injected machine a small pressurized leak may atomize and evaporate without ever leaving a drop on the floor, so treat a persistent fuel odor as real evidence.

The Leak Check That Ends the Job

Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit and lets you inspect both joints while everything is dry. Wipe each fitting with a clean light-colored rag and look for staining rather than waiting for a drip.

Start the engine and inspect again at idle, since vibration exposes marginal seals that pass a static test. After several minutes of dry running, reinstall the panels and seat, then recheck after a short ride. One platform note: the fuel filter on this injected Outlander is part of the in-tank pump module rather than an inline element on the hose. New line solves leaks, but a restriction inside the tank is a separate matter to address if delivery problems persist.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 XT ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 XT ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander MAX 500 XT ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.