How to Change the Fuel Line on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P

Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Signs the Line Is on Its Way Out

Fuel hose problems on a 2013 Outlander 800R XT-P tend to be diagnosed backwards. The engine acts up, parts get thrown at it, and only later does someone put a hand on the fuel line. Save yourself the detour by knowing what to look for. Smell comes first: gasoline odor hanging around the machine after a ride, most noticeable in the first several minutes after shutdown while the injected system is still holding pressure, is the earliest and most reliable clue available.

Then go looking. A wet spot or small pool on the skid plate after the quad has sat overnight, or a ring of packed grime at a fitting where fuel has seeped and dried repeatedly, both confirm the same thing. Squeeze the hose along its whole length. Rubber that feels rigid, chalky, or slick and glassy has already lost its flexibility, and the fine surface cracking that comes with it typically runs deeper than it appears. Finally, note how the engine runs: bogging as the throttle opens, a lean stumble partway up a hill, or the machine behaving as though the tank is nearly dry when it is full. On an injected 800R those complaints get attributed to plugs and sensors far more often than they deserve.

A Pressurized System With No Shutoff

The 2013 XT-P uses the 800R Rotax V-twin with electronic fuel injection, and that determines how you approach every step. There is no petcock under the tank. An electric pump module submerged in the tank supplies the throttle bodies, and the hose carrying that fuel remains pressurized after the engine stops. You relieve the pressure on purpose before opening a fitting, and you install hose rated for injection pressure rather than the soft low-pressure line used on gravity-fed carbureted machines.

Access deserves a mention. The XT-P is a 4x4 with selectable two-wheel drive, and this trim carries front bumper and winch hardware on top of the differential and the frame structure holding it. The procedure is no different, but the front end is congested and the hose run threads through more clips and clearance points than a two-wheel-drive quad would use, so map the route before pulling it apart.

The Slow Breakdown of Rubber

Fuel line degrades on a clock. The compounds that hold the rubber soft migrate out of the wall over years, and heat cycling from the V-twin speeds their exit. Once the hose is stiff, the vibration of everyday trail work turns that stiffness into cracks. Dry regions accelerate all of it, since low humidity draws moisture out of the rubber from the outside inward.

The interior faces ethanol. E10 pump gas attracts water into the fuel system and gradually breaks down the hose liner, and any period the XT-P spent parked with fuel in it adds gumming and internal softening. Because both processes run simultaneously, a hose can be hardening on its outer surface while disintegrating on its inner surface, which is exactly why the calendar is more informative than a quick look. A presentable hose can still be delivering debris downstream.

Getting Organized and Working Safely

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves, since gasoline strips skin oils on contact
  • A drain pan and an approved fuel container for the line contents
  • Injection-rated replacement hose in the original inside diameter
  • New clamps in the correct style, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler sits at the tank
  • Line-clamping pliers, taking over the petcock's function on this model
  • Hand tools for the seat and body panels, a sharp blade, and plenty of clean rags

Be specific about ventilation rather than treating it as boilerplate. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and settles toward the floor, which is the level your head occupies while you reach under the tank, so air movement needs to happen low across the ground. A window open above the bench accomplishes nothing for you. Work outdoors when the weather allows, or with the door fully raised and a fan at floor level. Remove all ignition sources from the space, including pilot lights and hot incandescent work lamps, and keep a fire extinguisher within arm's reach.

Disassembly

Relieve pressure first. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank briefly until the engine stalls or refuses to fire, shut the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Take off the seat and side plastics so both the tank and the hose heading back toward the throttle bodies are fully visible.

Slide the drain pan into place and lay a rag over the first fitting you plan to open, because residual fuel stays in the hose regardless of how thoroughly you depressurized it. Move worm-gear or spring clamps well back along the hose before disturbing the joint. Quick-connect couplers release when you press the locking tabs squarely and pull straight off, never by prying sideways, which cracks collars that age has made brittle. If varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, twist gently instead of yanking, and where that fails, slit the hose lengthwise with a blade and peel it away rather than damaging the fitting. Photograph the routing and every retainer before the final clip comes loose, especially where the line clears front driveline and bumper hardware.

Reassembly and the Leak Test

Cut the replacement to match the original length. Extra hose chafes a frame tube or drifts toward hot exhaust, and there is no benefit to leaving slack. Push both ends fully onto their barbs and install them dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray all give pressurized fuel a route past the sealing surface, so keep every lubricant off the fittings. Dipping a stubborn hose end in hot water for a few seconds is the only help required.

Position new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and tighten them evenly, snug rather than cutting into the rubber. If the tank end uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until it clicks and then pull firmly to verify the latch engaged; that connection wants no clamp. Reseat the hose in every original clip so it stays clear of the driveline and heat.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and loads the line with pressure while the joints are still dry, which is the clearest possible condition for catching a weep. Go over both connections with a light and a bare fingertip, then start the engine and inspect once more at idle before the plastics go back on. Keep one platform detail in mind afterward: the fuel filter on this injected 800R sits inside the tank as part of the pump assembly rather than inline where you can reach it, so if fuel delivery still feels soft after a clean install, that module is the next thing to examine.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.