Spotting and Replacing a Bad Fuel Line on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT
Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Fuel line trouble on a 2013 Outlander 800R XT tends to reveal itself in small, easy-to-dismiss ways long before it strands anybody. Learning to read those hints is half the value of this job, because a hose caught early is a relaxed hour in the garage and a hose caught late is a stalled machine miles from the truck.
The Clues That Point at the Hose
Smell usually comes first. Because this Outlander runs fuel injection and holds pressure in the line after shutdown, even a pinhole pushes vapor, and you will notice raw gasoline around the tank and rear fenders when the machine has just been parked. Next, run a finger along the fittings looking for a damp sheen or a caked ring of dirt, which is the fingerprint of fuel that weeps and dries in cycles.
Then examine the hose in daylight. A tired line shows fine surface checking, a chalky gray tone instead of deep black, and a permanent flat spot where a clamp has been squeezing for a decade. Squeeze it: healthy hose springs back, aged hose feels like hard plastic. Performance symptoms round out the picture, showing up as bogging when you load the Rotax twin, a hesitation as the throttle opens, or an engine that behaves as if the tank were low when it is nearly full. A puddle on the floor or a wet band across the skid plate after an overnight sit is the final, unmistakable stage.
Verify the Fuel System First
Your 2013 800R XT is injected, with the fuel pump mounted inside the tank and the filter element integrated into that same module rather than sitting inline on the visible hose. There is no petcock on the machine, so there is no valve to twist to OFF before you start. That is why relieving pressure becomes step one and why a pair of line-clamping pliers earns a spot on the tool list. Expect at least one connection to be a self-locking quick-connect coupler instead of a plain barb, and buy hose rated for injection pressure in the original inside diameter.
Why Fuel Hose Simply Wears Out
Time does most of the damage. Every heat cycle from the V-twin drives plasticizers out of the rubber, and a hose that started soft and flexible ends up stiff and glassy. Chassis flex over rough ground then works that stiffness into cracks. Dry, low-humidity climates make the process faster, because the surrounding air keeps drawing moisture out of the material.
Fuel chemistry attacks from the bore side. Ethanol blends pull water into the system and slowly degrade the inner liner, softening and swelling it while shedding fine debris toward the injectors. That effect compounds on machines that sit between rides, since parked fuel has time to gum and varnish against a weakening wall. The result is a hose that is hard outside and soft inside at the same time, which is exactly why age matters more than mileage here.
Assembling Tools and Handling Gasoline Safely
- Nitrile or rubber gloves and eye protection
- A shallow drain pan and a sealed, fuel-rated container for what you catch
- Injection-rated replacement hose matched to the original diameter
- New clamps in the correct style, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if your coupler requires one
- Line-clamping pliers, since there is no petcock to stop flow
- Sockets and drivers for the seat, racks, and plastics, a razor blade, and clean rags
Ventilation is not optional. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and pools along the floor, so work outdoors or with the garage door fully open rather than trusting a high window. Kill pilot lights and heaters, keep every spark source out of the area, and let the exhaust cool completely before your hands go near it.
Pulling the Old Line
Relieve pressure before anything else. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine for a few seconds until it stalls, turn the key off, and disconnect the battery negative cable. Take off the seat and the side panels to expose the tank and the hose run heading to the throttle body. Slide your pan into position and drape a rag over each joint as you open it, because residual fuel comes out even after the pressure is gone.
Slide clamps well back along the hose before you disturb the fitting. For a locking coupler, press the tabs squarely and pull straight; sideways force cracks plastic that has grown brittle with heat and age. Twist the hose gently to break its varnish bond on the barb rather than yanking, and if it stays welded on, slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it off to keep the fitting undamaged. Document the routing with photos first. This is a 4x4, and the front differential plus the extra frame members around it create clearance points and guides you will want to reproduce exactly on the new hose.
Installation and the Leak Check That Matters
Cut the replacement to the same length as the original. Extra hose looks generous and then chafes on a frame tube or wanders toward the exhaust. Push each end fully home on its barb, dry, and keep grease, oil, and silicone away from every sealing surface, because lubricant is precisely what lets pressurized fuel migrate out past a clamp. Soften a tight end with a few seconds in hot water if needed. Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly instead of crushing the rubber. A self-locking quick-connect gets pushed until it clicks and then tugged firmly to confirm it latched, with no clamp added. Feed the hose back through every clip it originally used so it stays off the driveline and clear of hot pipe.
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle spins the pump and pressurizes the line, giving you a static look at both joints. Wipe them with a clean rag and watch for any darkening. Start the engine, let it idle, and inspect again with the twin shaking the chassis. Several dry minutes earn the plastics going back on, and a short ride close to home is a smart final confirmation. If delivery still feels weak afterward, look at the in-tank pump and filter module rather than second-guessing your new hose.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.