Fuel Line Replacement on a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS
Shop parts for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Where Fuel Hose Goes Wrong
Fuel line on a 2013 Outlander 800R DPS does not wear out the way a tire or a brake pad does. Age is the enemy. Rubber hose is built with compounds that keep the wall soft, and those compounds slowly work their way out over the years. Once they are gone the hose is stiff, and a stiff hose cracks. Heat cycling from the Rotax V-twin hurries the process along, and the vibration a utility quad picks up crossing rough ground turns hardened spots into genuine fissures.
Where the DPS spends its life matters. In dry, low-humidity country the surrounding air draws moisture directly out of the rubber, and hoses harden years earlier than they would in a humid climate. Ethanol-blended fuel comes at the problem from the other side. E10 pump gas attracts water into the system and gradually degrades the hose liner, and any period where the machine sat parked with fuel in it contributes gumming and internal softening. The combination leaves you with a line hardening on the outside and shedding on the inside at once, which is exactly why a hose that looks acceptable can still be dumping debris toward the injectors.
Injection, Power Steering, and What They Mean for Access
Confirm the system first. The 2013 Outlander 800R DPS is fuel-injected, running the 800R Rotax V-twin with an electric pump module inside the tank. There is no petcock. The line to the throttle bodies stays pressurized after you shut the engine down, and you have to relieve that pressure on purpose before opening a fitting. Buy hose rated for injection pressure, not the soft low-pressure line intended for gravity-fed carburetors.
The DPS designation brings Dynamic Power Steering, which puts an assist unit and its wiring at the front of the chassis near the steering column. Combined with the fact that this is a 4x4 with selectable two-wheel drive and carries a front differential, the front end of the machine is a busy place. None of that changes the replacement steps, but it means the hose run threads past more hardware and uses more clips than a bare two-wheel-drive quad would. Give yourself room and trace the path before disturbing it.
How a Failing Line Announces Itself
- A damp patch or small puddle on the skid plate or floor after the machine has been sitting
- Gasoline smell hanging around the tank area, sharpest in the first minutes after shutdown while pressure remains
- Fine surface cracking, a chalky finish, or a section of hose that feels glassy under your fingers
- Bogging when you open the throttle, a lean stumble under load, or the engine acting nearly out of gas with a full tank
- A ring of caked dirt at a fitting, the residue of fuel weeping and drying over and over
Because this is an injected machine, a pressure-side leak can atomize and evaporate before it ever drips. No puddle is not evidence of no leak. If you can smell fuel and cannot explain it, get the panels off and look.
What You Need on Hand
- Nitrile or rubber gloves, as gasoline strips skin oils on contact
- A drain pan and an approved fuel container for the line contents
- Injection-rated replacement hose in the original inside diameter
- New clamps suited to the fittings you find, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if a locking coupler is used at the pump module
- Line-clamping pliers, which stand in for the petcock this machine does not have
- Hand tools for the seat and plastics, a sharp blade, and a generous supply of rags
Handle the workspace with the same care as the parts. Gasoline vapor is denser than air and collects near the floor, which is the level you will be working at under the tank, so ventilation has to reach low. An open window above the bench accomplishes nothing. Work outside when possible, or with the door fully raised and a fan moving air across the ground. Take every ignition source out of the area, pilot lights and hot incandescent lamps included, and set a fire extinguisher beside you rather than on a distant wall.
Removal Step by Step
Depressurize before anything else. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine briefly until it dies or refuses to catch, turn the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and side panels so that both the tank and the hose heading toward the throttle bodies are fully visible.
Get the pan underneath and cover the first joint with a rag, since a depressurized hose still holds fuel. Slide worm-gear or spring clamps well back along the hose before you disturb the connection. Quick-connect couplers release when you depress the locking tabs squarely and pull straight off; angling or prying cracks collars that have gone brittle. Where varnish has glued the hose to a barb, twist gently to break the bond, and if it holds fast, split the hose lengthwise and peel it away rather than damaging the fitting. Take photos of the routing, every clip, and each clearance point near the front differential and power steering hardware before the last retainer comes free.
Fitting the Replacement and Signing Off
Cut the new hose to the length of the old one. Extra length will chafe on a frame tube or drift toward hot exhaust, and it buys you nothing. Seat both ends completely onto their barbs and install them dry. Grease, oil, and silicone all hand pressurized fuel a path past the sealing surface, so keep lubricants away from the fittings entirely. If a hose end resists, hold it in hot water for a few seconds and it will slide on.
Place new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and tighten them evenly, snug rather than crushed. If your DPS uses a self-locking quick-connect at the tank, push until it clicks and pull firmly to verify the latch caught; no clamp belongs on that style of fitting. Return the hose to every original clip so it stays clear of the driveline and heat sources.
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle spins the pump and pressurizes the circuit while the joints are still dry, which is the easiest condition in which to spot a weep. Inspect both connections with a light and a bare fingertip, then start the engine and check again at idle before any plastics go back on. Keep in mind that on this injected platform the fuel filter sits inside the tank with the pump assembly rather than inline on the visible hose, so if delivery still feels weak after a clean install, that module is the next place to look.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2013 Can-Am Outlander 800R DPS ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.