Fuel Hose Replacement for the 2011 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4x4 FM1

Shop parts for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

The 2011 Foreman 500 FM1 sits at the end of the carbureted era for this platform, and that matters for the job in front of you. Fuel on this machine leaves the tank through a petcock valve, drops down a rubber hose by gravity, and fills the carburetor float bowl. There is no in-tank pump, no pressurized line, and no fuse or relay to pull. The petcock alone controls the flow, which makes hose replacement a straightforward afternoon project.

Recognizing a Hose That Is Done

A tired fuel line usually gives you plenty of notice. The most obvious sign is a small puddle or damp patch of gasoline under the machine after it has been parked, since gravity keeps standing fuel on the hose whenever the petcock is open. A gasoline smell that hangs around the tank hours after shutdown counts as evidence too, even with nothing visible on the ground.

Get your hands on the hose. Squeeze it along its length and feel for hard, unyielding sections or a surface that has gone dull and chalky. Look at the bends for fine cracking or an outright split. Check both fittings for a dust-caked brown ring, which is what dried fuel seepage looks like after it has collected trail dust. Finally, think about how the engine has been running: bogging under load, a lean stumble when you open the throttle, or acting like the tank is empty when it is not all point at restricted fuel delivery.

The Mechanics of Hose Failure

Rubber fuel line ages by heat cycle. Every warm-up and cooldown pushes plasticizers out of the compound, and after a decade the wall has traded flexibility for brittleness. Once it stops flexing with the chassis, ordinary vibration turns microscopic surface checks into cracks, and the bends fail first because that is where the stress lives.

Two outside forces speed that up. In dry, low-humidity country, arid air draws moisture out of the hose wall and hardens the exterior faster than it would in a humid region. Working from the opposite side, ethanol-blended pump gas attracts water and slowly degrades the inner liner. Let fuel sit in the line through a long unused stretch and that softened liner can gum up and shed particles that ride downstream into the float bowl, plugging jets that were perfectly clear before.

Preparation, Parts, and Ventilation

Have all of this on the bench before you start:

  • Fuel line matched to this Foreman's original inside diameter and rated for gasoline
  • New hose clamps or a clamp assortment, since factory pinch clamps rarely reseal well
  • Nitrile or rubber gloves and eye protection
  • A lidded drain container and a stack of shop rags
  • Pliers, a flat-blade screwdriver, a fresh razor blade, and sockets for the fender panels

Here is the part worth reading twice. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it sinks rather than dissipating upward, spreading along the floor until it reaches an ignition source. Water heater pilots and shop heaters sit exactly at that level in most garages. Work outdoors, or with the overhead door completely open, shut down anything that sparks or burns, disconnect the battery negative before you start, and keep the lid on your drain container between pours.

Getting the Old Line Out

Turn the petcock on the left side of the tank to OFF. Since this is a carbureted Foreman, that single move stops fuel flow entirely and eliminates any need for line-clamping pliers. Remove the seat and the panels blocking access to the tank outlet and the carburetor inlet.

Slide a drain pan under the carburetor and back out the float bowl drain screw, letting the bowl empty into the pan before you snug it closed again. That step keeps most of the remaining gasoline out of your workspace. Move both clamps back along the hose, clear of the fittings, then twist the hose a quarter turn on each barb to break the varnish bond before pulling. If a hose has hardened onto the spigot, slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it away rather than levering on the fitting.

Before the last end releases, photograph the routing. This is a 4x4 chassis, so the hose has to clear front differential and driveshaft hardware and passes through specific frame clearance points and clips on its way down. Following that same path with the new hose is what keeps it away from the exhaust and anything that rotates.

Fitting the Replacement and Proving It Dry

Cut the new hose to the exact length of the old piece, using it as a template. Extra hose is a liability that sags into the frame, wears itself thin, or kinks at a loop, while a short piece puts tension on the fittings. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms against the shoulder, dipping the ends in hot water first if the new rubber is stiff.

Build it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone on the fittings create a leak path and let the hose creep off the barb through repeated heat cycles, so keep every sealing surface clean. Place new clamps just behind the raised bead on each spigot and tighten evenly, firm without biting into the rubber. Return the hose to its factory clips with clearance from the front driveline and from the foot-shift linkage on this FM1.

Check that the float bowl drain screw is closed, turn the petcock to ON, and let gravity fill the line and bowl. Wipe both joints dry with a clean rag and inspect them for several minutes with the engine off, flashlight in hand, because a gravity-fed leak appears as a slowly spreading film long before it drips. Once both hold, Reconnect the battery, start the Foreman, and let it idle to operating temperature while you shift through the gears and recheck the fittings hot. Reinstall the bodywork last, then take a short ride close to home and give it a smell check when you shut it down.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2011 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.