Changing the Fuel Line on a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P

Shop parts for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P ATV.

Order the wrong hose and this job goes sideways before it begins. The 2011 Outlander MAX 800R XT-P runs a fuel-injected Rotax V-twin with a pump inside the tank, so the line carries pressurized fuel rather than the gravity flow a carbureted quad relies on. Low-pressure carburetor tubing has no business on this system, and neither does a hose that is a size off from the original.

The Shopping List Before the Wrenching

Sort out parts and tools first:

  • Hose rated for fuel injection pressure, matched to the exact inside diameter of what comes off
  • New clamps in the same style as the originals, and a quick-connect release tool if the tank fitting uses a locking plastic coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers, the substitute for a petcock this machine does not have
  • Nitrile gloves and eye protection
  • A low drain pan plus a sealed, approved container for captured gasoline
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat and side panels, a razor knife, and plenty of rags

An oversized hose will never seal on the barb regardless of clamp torque, and an undersized one distorts as you force it on. Check the tank-side fitting style before you buy, since a self-locking quick-connect there needs no clamp at all.

What Ages the Rubber Out

Two things dismantle a fuel hose. Heat cycling from the twin drives the plasticizers out of the compound until the rubber turns hard and glossy, at which point it stops flexing with the chassis and begins cracking at its bends. Dry, low-humidity climates speed that up, drawing moisture out of the hose wall and embrittling the outer layer.

The inside deteriorates separately. Ethanol-blended fuel absorbs water, and gasoline that sits in the line for months during a layup gums and softens the inner liner. Since neither process shows clearly from the outside, hose age carries as much weight as hose appearance on a machine this old. A carbureted quad would trap the resulting debris in a drainable float bowl; the injected XT-P sends it toward the pump screen and injector.

How to Tell the Line Is Finished

Symptoms usually build gradually. Look for gasoline collecting on the skid plate or a dried stain beneath the machine, and note whether a fuel smell intensifies for a few minutes after shutdown while the circuit remains pressurized. On the hose itself, watch for hairline checking, a chalky gray cast, or a length that will not compress when squeezed. Grit stuck in dried residue at a fitting means fuel has been weeping there.

Running behavior fills in the rest of the picture. Bogging on climbs, hesitation when the throttle is opened quickly, and lean surging at higher rpm all suggest the engine is short on fuel. Because this system is pressurized, escaping fuel often atomizes off hot castings before it drips, so a dry floor does not clear the hose.

Safety and Removal

Ventilation comes first and is not negotiable. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and pools near the floor, so raise the overhead door or work outdoors instead of trusting a window, and clear the space of chargers, shop heaters, and any pilot flame. Keep gloves on throughout, because fuel strips the oils from skin quickly.

Then relieve pressure: pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine until it dies, shut the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and enough bodywork to expose the hose from the tank fitting forward to the throttle body. Slide the drain pan under the area and lay a rag over the first joint you open, since residual fuel will run out even with the pump depressurized.

Slide clamps back along the hose before touching the connection. Depress quick-connect tabs squarely and pull the coupler straight off, never at an angle, because aged plastic collars crack under prying. Break a bonded hose loose by twisting slowly on the barb, and if it has seized, slice it lengthwise and peel it off rather than risking a distorted fitting. Photograph the routing on the way out, paying attention to the clearance points around the front differential and its crossmembers on this 4x4 chassis.

Installing the New Hose Dry

Cut the replacement to match the original exactly. Extra length lets the hose wander into something abrasive, while a short piece pulls at both fittings whenever the frame flexes under the XT-P suspension. Seat each end fully onto its barb, right to the shoulder, and assemble it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray have no place on a fuel connection, because a lubricant film on the sealing surface is exactly the channel pressurized gasoline uses to escape past a clamp. Warm the hose end in hot water if it fights you.

Position new clamps just inboard of the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly, firm enough to seal without cutting into the rubber. Where a self-locking quick-connect handles the tank end, push until it clicks and then tug hard to confirm it latched, adding nothing else. Reroute the line through every original clip so it stays clear of the driveline and hot exhaust surfaces.

Making Sure It Holds

Refit the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the ignition on and off several times without cranking. The pump primes each cycle and pressurizes the new hose, letting you inspect both joints while the surrounding metal is dry. Wipe them, then look and feel for the faintest bead of fuel. Start the V-twin and repeat the check at idle as heat and vibration build, and only then reinstall the plastics.

Finish with realistic expectations about filtration. The injected MAX 800R XT-P houses its fuel filter inside the tank as part of the pump module rather than inline where you could swap it during this job, so a fresh hose cannot fix a restriction there. If the machine still runs lean or stumbles after a leak-free install, that in-tank assembly is the next thing to look at.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander MAX 800R XT-P ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.