Fuel Line Work on a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R X MR

Shop parts for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R X MR ATV.

Preparation Is Most of the Job

An Outlander 800R X MR earns its keep in water and muck, and that changes the character of this repair before you loosen a thing. Mud packs around hoses and fittings, grit works into clamp threads, and worm-gear clamps that have been submerged repeatedly can seize or corrode. So the first task on a 2011 X MR is not wrenching, it is cleaning and staging. Wash and dry the area around the tank and the hose run so you are not driving sand into an open fitting, then lay out everything you need.

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves, because gasoline strips skin oils within seconds of contact
  • A drain pan and an approved fuel container for whatever comes out of the line
  • Replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure and matched to the original inside diameter
  • New clamps in the correct style, since the originals on a mud machine are often too corroded to reuse
  • A quick-disconnect release tool if the tank end carries a locking coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers, doing the work a petcock would handle on an older carbureted quad
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat and body panels, a razor blade, and plenty of clean rags

Then think about the space. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it drifts down and pools at floor level, which is where your head goes when you reach beneath the tank. Ventilation has to happen low to be worth anything, which means an open window above the bench is irrelevant. Work outdoors when you can, or with the overhead door fully raised and a fan pushing air across the floor. Every ignition source leaves the space, pilot lights and hot incandescent work lamps included, and a fire extinguisher stays within reach of where you kneel.

Injection, No Petcock, Pressurized Line

The 2011 X MR runs the 800R Rotax V-twin with electronic fuel injection. There is no petcock under the tank, an electric pump module inside the tank feeds the throttle bodies, and the hose between them holds pressure long after shutdown. That has to be relieved deliberately, and the hose you install must be injection-rated rather than the soft low-pressure line intended for gravity-fed carburetors.

Being a 4x4 with selectable two-wheel drive, the X MR carries a front differential and the frame structure to support it, plus the relocated intake and radiator plumbing that make this trim what it is. The result is a tight front end where the fuel hose threads through more clips and clearance points than a two-wheel-drive machine would need. The steps are the same either way, but budget time to follow the route carefully.

The Slow Death of a Fuel Hose

Rubber fuel line fails from age rather than mileage. The compounds keeping the wall soft gradually leach out, heat cycling from the V-twin accelerates that loss, and once the hose stiffens, vibration from real use turns rigidity into cracking. Dry climates get there faster, because low humidity draws moisture straight out of the rubber and hardens it from the outside inward.

Ethanol-blended fuel does the internal damage. E10 pulls water into the system and slowly degrades the hose liner, and any period the X MR spent parked with fuel in it contributes gumming and softening. So a hose can be brittle on its outer surface and crumbling on its inner surface at the same time. On a machine that also lives in mud and water, exterior grit abrasion adds a third mechanism, which is why an X MR hose deserves a harder look than the same part on a trail-only quad.

Symptoms Worth Chasing

  • Fuel collecting on the skid plate or the floor after the machine has been parked
  • A gasoline smell around the tank that is strongest in the minutes right after shutdown
  • Fine cracking, a chalky finish, or a stretch of hose that feels hard and glassy when pinched
  • Bogging as the throttle opens, a lean stumble under load, or the engine acting nearly out of fuel with a full tank
  • A ring of packed dirt at a fitting where fuel has seeped and dried repeatedly

On an injected machine a pressure-side leak can atomize and evaporate before it drips, so the lack of a puddle proves nothing. Smell is the more sensitive instrument here.

Getting the Old Line Out

Bleed the pressure first. Remove the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine a second or two until it stalls or will not fire, switch the key off, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Take off the seat and side plastics so both the tank and the hose heading toward the throttle bodies are open to view.

Slide the pan into position and cover the first fitting with a rag, since residual fuel stays in the hose no matter how well you depressurized. Push clamps well back along the hose before disturbing the joint, and be prepared for a worm-gear clamp on a mud machine to fight you or need cutting off. Quick-connect couplers release when you press the locking tabs squarely and pull straight off, never by levering sideways, which cracks collars that have gone brittle. Where varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, twist gently rather than yanking, and if that fails, slit the hose lengthwise with a blade and peel it away to protect the fitting. Photograph the routing and every retainer before the last clip comes free, particularly where the line clears front driveline hardware.

Fitting the New Hose and Proving It Holds

Cut the replacement to the original length and no more. Extra hose chafes a frame tube or drifts toward hot exhaust. Push each end fully onto its barb and install it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray all give pressurized fuel a channel past the sealing surface, so keep them away from the fittings entirely. A few seconds in hot water softens a stubborn end enough to slide on without help.

Set fresh clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly, snug without cutting into the rubber. If a self-locking quick-connect is used at the tank, push until it clicks and then tug hard to confirm the latch engaged; that fitting takes no clamp. Reseat the hose in every original clip so it stays clear of the driveline and heat, and on a machine that sees deep water, double-check that nothing is left hanging where it can catch debris.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit while the joints are still dry, making the first hint of seepage easy to catch. Inspect both connections with a light and a bare fingertip, then start the engine and check again at idle before the plastics go back on. One platform note to remember: the fuel filter on this injected 800R lives inside the tank as part of the pump assembly rather than inline where you can service it, so if delivery still feels soft after a leak-free install, that module is the next place to look.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R X MR ATV.

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Shop Fuel Filters for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R X MR ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R X MR ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.