Fuel Line Service for the 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R

Shop parts for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Set Up the Job Properly First

Doing this repair well on a 2011 Outlander 800R has less to do with wrench skill than with how you organize the workspace beforehand. You are opening a line that carries gasoline, and once a fitting is loose you should not be walking away to look for a tool. Lay everything out, then start.

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves, since gasoline pulls the oils out of skin within seconds of contact
  • A shallow drain pan plus an approved fuel container for the contents of the line
  • Replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure and matched to the original inside diameter
  • Fresh clamps in the correct style for the fittings on your machine, and a quick-disconnect release tool if the tank end uses a locking coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers, which do the job a petcock would on an older carbureted quad
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat and body panels, a razor blade, and a stack of clean rags

Ventilation deserves genuine attention rather than a passing mention. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it drifts downward and pools at floor level, precisely where your face ends up when you are reaching under the tank. An open window at head height accomplishes nothing. Work outdoors, or with the overhead door raised all the way and a fan moving air across the floor. Get pilot lights, space heaters, grinders, and hot incandescent lamps out of the area completely, and set an extinguisher within reach of where you will be kneeling.

Injected, Not Carbureted — And Why That Changes Everything

The 2011 Outlander 800R runs the 800R Rotax V-twin with electronic fuel injection. No petcock exists on this machine. Fuel comes from an electric pump module sitting inside the tank, and the hose feeding the throttle bodies stays pressurized after shutdown. That is the single most important fact of the job. On a carbureted quad you close a valve, catch a few ounces of fuel, and go. Here you deliberately bleed the circuit down before a clamp moves.

The 800R is a 4x4 with selectable two-wheel drive, and while that does not change the procedure, it does affect access. The front differential and the frame members supporting it occupy space ahead of the engine, so the hose run passes through additional guides and clearance points compared with a two-wheel-drive machine. Trace it fully before you commit.

What Kills a Fuel Hose Over Time

Fuel line dies of age more than mileage. The plasticizers keeping the rubber supple slowly leach out, and the wall goes from flexible to stiff to brittle. Heat cycling from the V-twin accelerates it, and chassis vibration on rough ground turns hardened areas into cracks. Riders in dry regions see this happen years earlier, because low humidity draws moisture straight out of the hose from the outside.

Ethanol works the opposite direction. E10 fuel pulls water into the system and slowly attacks the hose liner, so a machine that has spent months at a time parked with gas in it ends up with a line softening internally while it hardens externally. That combination is why a hose can look acceptable and still be shedding material toward the injectors. On a 2011 machine, treat the hose as a wear item due for replacement regardless of how it photographs.

Reading the Warning Signs

  • A fuel puddle or damp patch on the skid plate or floor after the quad has been parked
  • A gasoline smell around the tank that is strongest in the first several minutes after you shut it down
  • Visible hairline cracking, a chalky surface, or a segment that feels glassy under your fingers
  • The engine bogging on throttle, stumbling lean on a climb, or behaving as if it is running out of fuel when it is not
  • A ring of caked dirt at a fitting where fuel has seeped and dried repeatedly

On an injected system, a pressure-side leak can atomize and evaporate before it drips, so the absence of a puddle proves nothing. A persistent fuel odor is enough reason to pull the panels and look.

Freeing the Old Line

Relieve pressure to begin. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank the starter for a second or two until the engine quits or refuses to catch, switch the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and side plastics until the tank and the hose heading toward the throttle bodies are both open to view.

Slide the pan into place and lay a rag across the first fitting you intend to break, because residual fuel stays in the hose no matter how well you depressurized it. Move worm-gear or spring clamps back along the hose before touching the joint. For a quick-connect coupler, press the locking tabs evenly and pull straight off; angling it or prying with a screwdriver cracks collars that have aged. When varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, twist it gently rather than yanking, and if it truly will not budge, split it lengthwise with a blade and peel it off to protect the fitting. Photograph the routing and every clip before the last one releases, especially where the line skirts front driveline components.

Installation and the Leak Check That Matters

Cut the new hose to the length of the old one and no longer. Extra hose finds something to rub against or drifts toward the exhaust. Seat both ends fully onto their barbs and do it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray all create a channel for pressurized fuel to work past the barb, so keep every lubricant away from the sealing surfaces. Hot water for a few seconds is the only softening trick you need.

Set the new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly, snug but not biting into the rubber. If the tank side of your 800R uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until it clicks and then pull firmly to be sure the latch caught. That fitting takes no clamp. Put the hose back through every factory clip so it stays clear of moving parts and heat.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, then cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle spins the pump and loads the circuit while the joints are dry and easy to read. Go over both connections with a light and a bare fingertip, then start the engine and repeat the inspection at idle before any plastics go back on. One platform detail to file away: the fuel filter on the injected 800R sits inside the tank as part of the pump assembly rather than inline where you can change it, so if fuel delivery still feels soft after a clean install, that module is the next suspect.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2011 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.