Changing the Fuel Line on a 2010 Sportsman Big Boss 800 6x6
Shop parts for a 2010 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
A fuel hose that has been on a machine since 2010 is not the same material it was when it was installed. Rubber changes chemically over that span, and on a 2010 Sportsman Big Boss 800 6x6 that change is the single best reason to plan a replacement rather than waiting for a failure.
How Time Breaks Down Fuel Hose
New hose is pliable because of plasticizers blended into the rubber compound. Every heat cycle from the 800 twin drives a little more of that out of the wall, and the hose gradually loses its ability to flex. At that point it fractures under movement instead of bending, and because the hose is anchored at both ends on a long chassis that works constantly over uneven ground, the cracks concentrate at bends and directly beneath clamps.
Ambient conditions set the pace. In arid regions with low humidity, moisture leaves the hose wall faster and hardening happens sooner than it would in a damp climate. Ethanol blended pump gas causes a different kind of damage, absorbing water while the machine sits between jobs and slowly degrading the inner liner. Gum forms in the passage and fragments of liner begin moving downstream. That is the failure mode worth worrying about, since a hose can look entirely presentable while feeding debris toward the injectors.
Establishing the Fuel System Layout
The Big Boss 800 is fuel injected, with an electric pump inside the tank pushing pressurized fuel to the throttle body. Three assumptions from carbureted machines have to go. There is no petcock, so line clamping pliers handle shutoff duties instead. Fuel does not feed by gravity, so the hose stays pressurized after shutdown and must be bled deliberately. And no float bowl drain exists to empty the low point of the system, meaning the fuel to capture sits in the hose. Injected machines also sometimes use a self locking quick connect coupler at the tank outlet rather than a barb and clamp, so identify the fitting style before buying parts.
Symptoms Worth Investigating
The earliest indicator on an injected machine is usually a gasoline smell that will not clear around the chassis, sharpest in the minutes just after shutdown. Pressurized fuel escaping a small crack tends to atomize and evaporate rather than drip, so odor precedes any puddle. Beyond that, look for a damp film or wet ring beneath the tank area once the machine has been parked, hairline cracking or a chalky bloom on the hose surface after wiping it clean, and rigid sections that will not compress when squeezed. Dust caked into a dark ring at a fitting is dried fuel collecting grit. On the running side, expect bogging with a loaded bed, a stumble when the throttle opens quickly, and an engine that behaves as though the tank is nearly empty when it is not.
Six Wheels and What That Means for Routing
The Big Boss carries a longer frame than a standard utility quad, with a cargo bed and a second rear axle. Practically, that translates to a longer run of hose, more frame crossmembers to navigate, and additional clips holding the line in place. Access is tighter as well, since bed structure occupies space that would be open on a shorter machine.
Every wheel can be driven here, so there is front differential hardware at one end and driveline components running rearward, and the factory clips exist to keep fuel hose away from all of it as well as from hot exhaust. That makes photographing the routing before anything comes apart genuinely useful. Reinstalling the hose in the wrong guide on a machine this long is an easy mistake with expensive consequences.
Preparation and Handling Fuel Safely
Get everything on the bench first:
- Nitrile or rubber gloves, since gasoline strips skin oils immediately
- A sealed, fuel rated container for what drains out
- Injection rated hose in the original inside diameter and long enough for this chassis
- New clamps in the correct style, plus a quick connect release tool if a coupler is used
- Line clamping pliers, taking the place of the petcock this machine lacks
- Razor knife, flat blade driver, sockets and trim tools, and plenty of rags
Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and pools along the floor, exactly where you will be working. Ventilation only helps if air is moving at ground level, so work outdoors when the weather cooperates or open the shop door fully rather than relying on a high window. Shut off and relocate heaters, chargers, grinders, and anything with a standing flame, and keep an extinguisher within reach.
Removal, Installation, and the Leak Check
Bleed the system by pulling the fuel pump fuse, cranking until the engine dies, switching the key off, and disconnecting the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and the plastics covering the tank and hose run so the full length of the line is reachable. Slide the catch pan under the joint and cover it with a rag before opening, because a bled hose still contains fuel. Move clamps well back along the hose, then work the fitting. Quick connects release when the tabs are pressed squarely and the coupler is pulled straight off, never pried sideways. Break varnish bonds with a gentle twist, or slit the hose lengthwise and peel it off rather than straining the fitting.
Cut the replacement to the original length so nothing chafes on a frame tube or catches a driveline component. Push each end fully onto its barb dry, with nothing on the sealing surface, since grease, oil, and silicone all give pressurized fuel a route past the clamp. Hot water softens a stubborn hose end enough to slide on. Set new clamps just behind the raised bead and tighten them evenly to snug. A self locking coupler needs no clamp; push until it clicks and pull firmly to verify the latch.
Reinstall the hose in every original clip, refit the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking so the pump pressurizes the line while everything is clean and dry. Inspect and wipe both joints, then start the engine and check again at idle with a fresh rag, watching for a bead forming at either connection. Give it several minutes of running and look one final time before the plastics go back on.
Worth filing away: the fuel filter on this platform lives inside the tank with the pump assembly rather than sitting inline on the visible hose the way a carbureted machine usually arranges it. If fuel delivery still feels weak after a careful install, that assembly is the next place to look.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2010 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2010 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2010 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2010 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2010 Polaris Sportsman Big Boss 800 6X6 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.