How to Renew the Fuel Line on a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 800R X XC

Shop parts for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 800R X XC ATV.

Identify the system before you order a part. The 2010 Renegade 800R X XC is built on the injected Rotax V–twin platform, so it does not work anything like a carbureted quad of the same era. There is no petcock beneath the tank, no float bowl to drain, and no gravity feed. Instead an electric pump inside the fuel tank pushes fuel through a pressurized hose to the throttle body, and the hose stays pressurized for a while after shutdown.

What That Means in Practice

Three consequences follow from an injected fuel system. First, you cannot simply turn a valve and walk away, so pressure has to be bled off deliberately and flow controlled with line–clamping pliers if needed. Second, the replacement hose must be rated for injection pressure rather than the low–pressure tubing suited to a carbureted machine, and it must match the original inside diameter. Third, the fuel filter is part of the in–tank pump module rather than an inline element you can change while the hose is off, so a delivery problem that survives a new line points inside the tank.

On the chassis side, the XC is a 4x4, and its supply line shares space with front differential hardware and a couple of frame crossmembers that a two–wheel–drive quad does not have. That does not change the procedure, but it does mean one or two clips sit in awkward reach and the hose has a specific side of a bracket to pass on so it stays clear of exhaust heat.

Why the Rubber Gives Up

Fuel hose ages on a calendar. The plasticizers that keep the compound flexible slowly migrate out, leaving a wall that is stiff rather than pliable and unable to absorb vibration without cracking. Heat from the V–twin drives that transition, and the ends held by clamps crack first because they cannot move.

Where the machine lives changes the timeline. Arid air pulls moisture from the hose wall and hardens it from the outside in, producing a chalky, finely fissured surface early. Ethanol–blended gasoline attacks the inner liner from the opposite direction, softening it chemically and leaving gum behind, which is worst when the XC sits between seasons with old fuel in the system.

Symptoms of a Line on Its Way Out

  • A gasoline smell around the tank, most obvious right after shutdown while the circuit holds pressure
  • Fuel wetness or a small puddle on the skid plate after the quad has been sitting
  • Fine cracking, a glassy hardened texture, or a permanent flat groove at a clamp
  • Bogging under load, a lean stumble at higher rpm, or hesitation like a nearly empty tank
  • Extended cranking after an overnight sit, a sign pressure is bleeding off through a weep
  • A ring of caked dirt at a fitting where seeping fuel has trapped dust

Do not write off a fuel odor because nothing is dripping. Pressurized leaks often atomize and evaporate before they can form a puddle.

Tools and Safe Handling

Assemble gloves and eye protection, a sealed fuel–rated container, a shallow drain pan, injection–rated hose in the correct diameter, new clamps matched to the fittings, line–clamping pliers, a quick–connect release tool if the tank outlet uses a locking coupler, a sharp hose cutter or razor, rags, and sockets for the seat and side panels.

The gasoline safety point is straightforward but easy to get wrong. Fuel vapor is heavier than air, so it settles at floor level and travels along the floor rather than dissipating upward. Work outdoors when you can, or with the door fully open and a fan moving air low across the space. Put out pilot lights on any water heater or furnace, unplug battery chargers, and keep grinders, torches, and cigarettes well away. Keep gloves on for the duration, because gasoline strips the natural oils from skin quickly and repeated exposure does real harm.

Removal

Bleed the pressure down first. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the starter until the engine stalls from lack of supply, turn the key off, and disconnect the battery negative cable. Remove the seat and enough bodywork to see the tank outlet and follow the hose to the throttle body.

Slide the drain pan under the run and lay a rag over the first joint you open, since a depressurized hose still holds fuel. Walk any worm or spring clamp well back along the hose before disturbing the fitting. On a quick–connect, press the locking tabs squarely inward and pull the collar straight off with no side load; aged plastic splits when levered. Where varnish has bonded the hose to a barb, twist gently to break the bond, or slit it lengthwise and peel it clear rather than pulling hard enough to stress the fitting. Photograph every clip and clearance point before the old hose leaves the chassis.

Installation and Verification

Cut the new hose to the same length as the original. Excess length chafes on frame tubes or fouls the steering, so match it rather than adding slack. Seat each end fully onto its barb, working dry, and keep grease, oil, and silicone entirely off the fittings, because a lubricated sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a route past the clamp. A stiff hose end softens in hot water in about thirty seconds.

Install new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly rather than crushing one edge. A self–locking quick–connect gets pushed until it clicks, then tugged firmly to confirm the latch engaged, and receives no clamp. Reseat the hose in its factory clips, following the photos, so it stays clear of exhaust heat and the front driveline.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the hose while the area is still dry, which makes even a slow weep obvious. Wipe both joints with a clean rag and inspect under good light, then start the engine and check again at idle for several minutes. Once it holds dry, the plastics can go back on and the XC is ready to ride.

Related Shopping Categories

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Shop Fuel Filters for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 800R X XC ATV.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.