Fitting a New Fuel Line to a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 800R

Shop parts for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.

Access dictates how long this job takes on a 2010 Renegade 800R. The hose does not run in a straight line from tank to engine, and knowing what it passes on the way saves you from fighting the chassis. Just as important is the fuel system itself: this Rotax V–twin machine is fuel injected, the pump is inside the tank, the supply hose is pressurized any time the key is on, and there is no petcock to shut off flow.

Where the Line Runs and What Gets in the Way

The supply hose leaves the tank outlet, follows a guided path along the frame, and terminates at the throttle body. Because the 800R is a 4x4, that path shares space with front differential hardware and a couple of extra frame crossmembers that a two–wheel–drive quad simply does not carry. Practically, this means one or two clips are awkward to reach with a hand and a screwdriver at the same time, and there is usually one clearance point where the hose must pass on a specific side of a bracket to keep it away from exhaust heat.

Pull the seat and enough side plastic that you can see both ends and the middle of the run at once. Photograph each clip, guide, and pass–through before anything comes apart. Getting the new hose back on the original path is not cosmetic; a line that takes a shortcut will end up rubbing a frame tube or resting against something hot.

The Reasons Hoses Give Out

Fuel line degrades on a calendar. Plasticizers that keep the rubber pliable slowly migrate out of the compound, and the wall progresses from soft to stiff to brittle, at which point it can no longer flex without cracking. Heat from the V–twin drives that transition, and the vibration and chassis flex a Renegade sees over rough terrain concentrates the damage at the clamped ends.

Two outside forces speed things up. Arid climates pull moisture from the hose wall, hardening it from the outside and leaving a chalky, finely cracked surface well ahead of schedule. Ethanol–blended fuel attacks from within, softening the inner liner and depositing gum, particularly when the machine sits between seasons with old gasoline still in the system. Neither process announces itself, which is why a hose can look serviceable and still be failing.

Symptoms That Justify the Job

  • Gasoline odor around the tank, sharpest in the first minute after shutdown while pressure remains
  • Fuel wetness or a puddle collecting on the skid plate after the quad has been parked
  • Visible cracking, a glassy hardened texture, or a permanent flattened set at a clamp
  • Bogging under load, a lean stumble high in the rev range, or hesitation like a nearly empty tank
  • Extended cranking after an overnight sit, meaning pressure is bleeding down somewhere

Because this is a pressurized system, a small leak may atomize rather than drip, so a fuel smell with no wet spot still counts as evidence.

Tools, Parts, and Ventilation

Gather gloves and eye protection, a sealed fuel–rated container, a shallow drain pan, injection–rated hose in the correct inside diameter, new clamps matched to the fittings, line–clamping pliers to replace the function of the absent petcock, a quick–connect release tool if the tank outlet uses a locking coupler, a sharp hose cutter, rags, and sockets for the seat and panels.

On safety, the point to internalize is that gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It settles at floor level and travels, which means an open window six feet up accomplishes nothing while a furnace pilot across the garage is a genuine hazard. Work outdoors or with the door fully open and air moving low across the floor. Kill pilot lights, unplug chargers, put the grinder away, and keep gloves on the whole time since fuel strips skin oils fast.

Removing the Old Hose

Relieve pressure before you loosen anything. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the starter until the engine dies, turn the key off, and disconnect the battery negative cable. Slide the drain pan under the run and lay a rag over the first joint you separate, because a depressurized hose still holds fuel that has to go somewhere.

Move worm or spring clamps well back along the hose before touching the fitting. For a quick–connect coupler, press the locking tabs in squarely and pull straight off with no side load; a collar this age has lost its toughness and will crack if levered. Where the hose has varnished onto a barb, twist it gently to break the bond instead of pulling hard, and if it still resists, slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it off so the fitting survives intact.

Installation and the Final Leak Check

Cut the replacement to match the original length exactly. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms against the shoulder, and do that dry. Grease, oil, and silicone belong nowhere near a fuel fitting, because a lubricated sealing surface is precisely the path pressurized fuel uses to escape past a clamp. Thirty seconds with the hose end in hot water solves stiffness without any lubricant.

Position new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly rather than crushing one side. A self–locking quick–connect gets pushed together until it clicks, then pulled firmly to confirm the latch engaged, and receives no clamp. Reseat the hose in every original clip and guide, following the photos you took, so it stays clear of the front driveline and hot exhaust surfaces.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off four or five times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit while the surrounding area is still dry, which makes a slow weep obvious. Wipe both joints with a clean rag and inspect under good light, then start the engine and watch again at idle for several minutes before the plastics go back on. One last note on this platform: the fuel filter is integrated into the in–tank pump module rather than sitting inline on the visible hose, so if the 800R still runs starved after a clean install, the next place to look is inside the tank.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.

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Shop Petcocks for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.