Renewing the Fuel Line on Your 2010 Can-Am Renegade 500

Shop parts for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Nobody replaces a fuel line for fun. It gets done because a hose has hardened past the point of trust, or because a slow seep has finally left a stain on the garage floor. Either way, the 2010 Renegade 500 makes it a manageable afternoon once you understand what you are working on. This Rotax powered quad runs electronic fuel injection with the pump mounted inside the tank, which means the line carries pressure and there is no fuel valve to shut off before you start cutting.

Rubber Has a Shelf Life

The failure mode is gradual and easy to miss. Fuel hose is compounded with plasticizers that keep it flexible, and those compounds slowly leach away over years of exposure to heat, fuel, and air. The hose stiffens, loses its ability to absorb vibration, and eventually develops the fine surface checking that precedes an actual split. Heat radiating off the V-twin accelerates the process at the throttle body end, where temperatures run highest.

Climate plays a real role. Machines that live in dry, high desert country harden noticeably faster, since low humidity draws moisture out of the hose wall year after year. Ethanol blended gasoline attacks from the opposite direction, pulling water into the fuel and softening the inner liner until it sheds material into the system. Leave a tank of E10 sitting through a long off season and the hose can be deteriorating internally while the exterior still passes a glance.

Reading the Machine for Early Warnings

Your Renegade will usually tell you the line is finished before it strands you. Watch for these:

  • Fuel pooling on the skid plate or dripping onto the floor after the quad has been shut off a while
  • A gasoline smell that lingers near the tank, strongest right after you kill the engine
  • Cracking, crazing, or a chalky texture on the hose, particularly near the fittings and any tight bend
  • A section that feels rigid instead of springy when you pinch it between thumb and finger
  • Bogging, hesitation, or a lean surge under throttle, as though fuel supply cannot keep pace

Because this is an injected machine, a small leak on the pressure side may evaporate before it drips. If you smell fuel and cannot find the wet spot, keep looking rather than dismissing it.

Tools, Gloves, and Ventilation

Set out gloves, a lidded fuel container, injection rated replacement hose matched to the original inside diameter, fresh clamps, line clamping pliers to stand in for the missing petcock, a razor knife, hand tools for the plastics, and a generous supply of rags. A quick disconnect release tool is worth having if your machine uses a locking coupler at the tank.

Take the ventilation seriously. Gasoline vapor is denser than air and creeps along the floor toward any ignition source in the room, including appliance pilot lights you never think about. Open the door fully, work outside if weather allows, and cap the fuel container the moment you are done pouring into it.

Freeing the Old Line

Begin by relieving pressure. Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank until the engine stalls out, then switch the key off and disconnect the battery negative terminal. Pull the seat and side plastics to expose the tank and follow the hose back toward the throttle body so you know exactly where it lands.

Position a catch pan and lay a rag over the first fitting you open, since residual fuel will still run out of a bled line. Slide each clamp well back before disturbing the hose end, then twist gently to break the varnish bond instead of yanking straight off. Quick connect fittings release by pressing both locking tabs and pulling in line with the barb; prying sideways splits collars that have grown brittle with age. When a hose end simply will not surrender, slit it lengthwise and peel it away.

Trace and record the routing before it is gone. A 4x4 Renegade carries front differential hardware and extra frame bracing that force the line along a slightly longer path with more clearance points than a two wheel drive quad, and getting the new hose back through those clips correctly is much easier with reference photos.

Installing Dry and Clamping Right

Cut the replacement to match the original length precisely. Surplus hose finds something to rub against, and a chafed line puts you right back here in a season. Slide each end fully onto its barb until it seats against the shoulder, and do it dry — no grease, no oil, no silicone. Any film on the sealing surface becomes a leak path once the pump comes up to pressure. Dip a stiff hose end in hot water if it fights you.

Locate new clamps just past the bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly. If your Renegade uses a self locking quick connect at the tank, push it together until it clicks and then pull firmly to confirm engagement; that style needs no clamp and adding one accomplishes nothing. Route the hose back through its original guides, keeping it well away from the front driveline and any hot exhaust surface.

Confirming a Dry System

Put the fuse back, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off repeatedly without cranking. Each cycle brings the pump up and pressurizes the line, giving you a clean look at both joints before any fuel has had a chance to move. Wipe the fittings dry, then inspect and feel for seepage. Start the engine, let it idle several minutes, and check a final time before the plastics go on.

Worth remembering on this platform: the fuel filter is integrated into the in-tank pump assembly rather than sitting inline on the visible hose. Fresh line will not restore flow through a clogged filter, so if the Renegade still runs starved after a leak free installation, the module in the tank is the next thing to address.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2010 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.