Fuel Line Replacement for the 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P

Shop parts for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Stage the Work Before You Open Anything

This is a job where the outcome is largely decided before the first fitting moves. Once a fuel joint is open on a 2010 Outlander 800R XT-P you want both hands free and nothing left to hunt down, so build the pile first.

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves — gasoline pulls the oils out of skin almost instantly
  • A shallow drain pan and an approved fuel container to receive the line contents
  • Replacement hose rated for fuel-injection pressure, matched to the original inside diameter
  • New clamps in the correct style for the fittings on your machine
  • A quick-disconnect release tool if the tank end carries a locking coupler
  • Line-clamping pliers, which do the job a petcock handles on an older carbureted quad
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat and body panels, a fresh razor blade, and a generous supply of clean rags

Then handle the room. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so it sinks and collects at floor level, which is precisely where your face ends up when you reach under the tank. Ventilation has to move air low to be worth anything, and a window cracked above the bench contributes nothing. Roll the machine outside if the weather cooperates, or open the overhead door completely and put a fan at floor level. Every ignition source leaves the area, including water heater pilot lights and hot incandescent work lamps, and a fire extinguisher stays beside you rather than across the shop.

Injected From the Factory, With No Shutoff Valve

The 2010 Outlander 800R XT-P runs the 800R Rotax V-twin with electronic fuel injection. That single fact reshapes the whole procedure. There is no petcock beneath the tank to close. An electric pump module inside the tank supplies the throttle bodies, and the hose between them holds pressure well after the key comes out, so you relieve that pressure intentionally as step one. It also means injection-rated hose is the only acceptable replacement; the soft low-pressure line that suits a gravity-fed carburetor will not hold up.

The XT-P is a 4x4 with selectable two-wheel drive, and the trim adds front bumper and winch hardware on top of the front differential and its supporting frame structure. None of that alters the technique, but the front of the machine is a tight place to work, and the hose route uses more clips and clearance points than a bare two-wheel-drive quad would need. Follow the run before you commit to pulling it apart.

Why Age Takes the Hose Down

Fuel line failure is a slow chemical process, not a mechanical one. The compounds that keep rubber pliable gradually migrate out of the hose wall, and heat cycling from the V-twin accelerates their departure. Once the wall goes stiff, the vibration a utility quad picks up on rough ground converts rigidity into visible cracking. Machines in arid regions reach that point noticeably sooner, since low ambient humidity draws moisture out of the rubber from the outside inward.

Ethanol handles the inner wall. E10 pump gas attracts water into the fuel system and slowly breaks down the hose liner, and any stretch where the XT-P sat unused with fuel in it contributes gumming and internal softening. The upshot is a hose that hardens outside while shedding inside, which is how a line that looks entirely presentable still manages to send debris toward the injectors. On a machine this far along, treat the hose as due regardless of appearance.

What Failure Looks Like

  • A wet patch or small puddle on the skid plate or floor after the quad has been parked
  • A gasoline odor near the tank, strongest in the first several minutes following shutdown
  • Fine cracking, a chalky texture, or a segment that feels glassy and hard between your fingers
  • Bogging on throttle, a lean stumble under sustained load, or the engine behaving as though it is nearly out of fuel with a full tank
  • Dirt caked into a ring at a fitting, the residue of repeated seeping and drying

Small pressure-side leaks on an injected machine often atomize and evaporate before they can drip, so no puddle is not proof of a sealed system. Trust your nose and investigate anything you cannot explain.

Old Hose Removal

Depressurize before touching a fitting. Pull the fuel pump fuse, crank for a second or two until the engine quits or will not catch, turn the key off, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and side plastics so the tank and the hose heading back toward the throttle bodies are both clearly exposed.

Position the pan and lay a rag over the first joint you intend to open, because residual fuel remains in the hose regardless of how well you bled it. Slide worm-gear or spring clamps well clear before disturbing the connection. A quick-connect coupler releases by pressing its locking tabs squarely and pulling straight back; prying at an angle cracks collars that have gone brittle with age. If varnish has cemented the hose to a barb, twist gently to break the bond, and where that fails, split the hose lengthwise and peel it off rather than risking the fitting. Photograph the routing, all clips, and each spot where the line clears front driveline and bumper hardware before the last retainer releases.

Installation and the Test That Confirms It

Cut the new hose to match the old one in length. Surplus hose chafes a frame tube or drifts toward hot exhaust, and it gains you nothing. Seat both ends completely onto their barbs, installed dry. Grease, oil, and silicone all give pressurized fuel a channel past the sealing surface, so no lubricant belongs anywhere near these fittings. Softening a stubborn end in hot water for a few seconds is the only assistance needed.

Set fresh clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and tighten them evenly, snug without cutting into the rubber. If the tank side uses a self-locking quick-connect, push until it clicks and pull hard to verify the latch caught. That fitting takes no clamp at all. Route the hose back through every factory clip so it stays clear of the driveline and heat.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit while the joints are still dry, giving you the best possible look at a developing weep. Inspect both connections with a light and a bare fingertip, then start the engine and check again at idle before the plastics go back on. One last thing to keep in mind: the fuel filter on this injected platform lives inside the tank as part of the pump assembly rather than inline where you can service it, so if fuel delivery still feels soft after a leak-free installation, that module is where to look next.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R XT-P ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.