Replacing a Worn Fuel Line on Your 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R
Shop parts for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Rubber Has a Shelf Life
Nothing on a 2010 Outlander 800R ages more quietly than its fuel hose. The rubber contains compounds that keep the wall pliable, and those compounds slowly leave over the years whether the machine racks up hours or sits on a trailer. What you are left with is a hose that has gone stiff and papery, and stiffness is where cracking starts. Every heat cycle out of the Rotax V-twin and every jolt through the chassis on a rough two-track works those hardened spots into real fissures.
Where the quad lives changes the timeline. Dry, low-humidity air pulls moisture directly out of the hose wall, so machines in arid regions harden noticeably sooner than the same hose would in a wet climate. Meanwhile ethanol-blended pump gas attacks from the inside. E10 draws water into the fuel system and gradually degrades the hose liner, and any period where the 800R sat with fuel in it contributes to gumming and internal softening. The net effect is a line getting brittle on the outside and shedding on the inside at the same time, which is why the calendar is a better guide than a visual inspection on a machine this old.
Know Your Fuel System Before You Reach for a Wrench
The 2010 Outlander 800R runs electronic fuel injection on the 800R Rotax twin. There is no petcock on this machine. An electric pump lives inside the tank and keeps the run to the throttle bodies under pressure, and that pressure does not vanish the moment you switch the key off. Anyone used to carbureted quads, where closing a valve and cracking a clamp is the whole preamble, needs to adjust here: on the 800R you relieve the circuit intentionally or you get sprayed.
The 800R is also a 4x4 with selectable two-wheel drive. That does not alter how the hose comes off, but the front differential and the frame structure carrying it tighten up the space at the front of the engine bay. Expect a couple more clips and clearance points along the run than a two-wheel-drive quad would use.
Catching It Before It Leaves You Walking
A hose rarely fails without notice. The things to look for:
- Fuel pooled on the skid plate or the floor beneath the machine after it has sat
- A gasoline smell that hangs around the tank area, sharpest in the minutes right after shutdown
- Fine surface cracking, a chalky finish, or a section that feels hard and glossy rather than soft when squeezed
- Bogging when the throttle opens, a lean hesitation under load, or the engine acting low on fuel with a full tank
- Grime built into a ring at a fitting, which marks fuel that has been weeping and drying there for a while
On injected machines a small pressure-side leak often evaporates before it can drip, so a persistent smell with nothing visible is still worth acting on. Do not wait for a puddle to confirm what you already suspect.
Prep Work and a Real Word About Gasoline
- Nitrile or rubber gloves — gasoline strips oils out of skin fast
- A drain pan and an approved fuel container for whatever comes out of the line
- Injection-rated replacement hose in the original inside diameter, not general purpose carburetor line
- New clamps to suit the fittings you find, and a quick-disconnect tool if a locking coupler sits at the tank
- Line-clamping pliers, standing in for the petcock this model does not have
- Hand tools for the seat and plastics, a sharp blade, and more rags than you think you need
Set up outside if you can, or with the shop door fully open. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and collects near the floor, which is exactly where you will be lying. High windows do not help. Get every ignition source out of the space, including pilot lights and hot incandescent work lamps, and keep an extinguisher next to you rather than somewhere across the building.
Getting the Old Hose Out
Depressurize first. Remove the fuel pump fuse, crank the engine a couple of seconds until it stumbles and quits, shut the key off, and disconnect the negative battery lead. Pull the seat and side panels for clear access to the tank and the hose running aft toward the throttle bodies.
Position the pan and cover the first fitting with a rag, since fuel remains in the line even after the pressure is gone. Back worm-gear or spring clamps well away from the joint before you touch it. A quick-connect coupler releases when you depress its tabs squarely and pull straight off, and prying it sideways is how brittle collars break. If varnish has cemented the hose to a barb, a light twist normally frees it; when it does not, slice the hose lengthwise and peel it away rather than fighting the fitting. Record the routing with photos before the last clip comes loose, paying particular attention to where the line clears front driveline hardware.
Fitting the New Line and Proving It Sealed
Cut the replacement to the same length as what came off. Surplus hose chafes on frame tubes or drifts toward heat. Push each end fully home on its barb and install it completely dry — grease, oil, and silicone all give pressurized fuel a path to migrate past the sealing surface. If a hose end resists, soften it in hot water for a few seconds instead of lubricating it.
Position new clamps just behind the bead on each fitting and tighten evenly without crushing the hose. Where a self-locking quick-connect is used, push until you hear it click and tug hard to confirm the latch took. No clamp belongs on that fitting. Route the hose back through every original clip and guide.
Refit the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking so the pump pressurizes the circuit while everything is still dry. That is the easiest moment to catch a weep. Check both joints with a light and a clean fingertip, then start the engine and inspect again at idle before the plastics go back on. Worth remembering afterward: this platform carries its fuel filter inside the tank as part of the pump assembly, not inline where you can service it, so lingering delivery problems after a clean hose swap point at that module rather than the line you just replaced.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2010 Can-Am Outlander 800R ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.