Renewing the Fuel Line on Your 2009 Honda Foreman 500 FM1 4x4

Shop parts for a 2009 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Cracked fuel hose is one of the most common issues to surface on a well-used 2009 Foreman 500 FM1, and it is also among the easiest to fix properly. The fuel system on this foot-shift model is carbureted and gravity fed, so the hose you are dealing with runs from a petcock valve on the tank down to the carburetor with a clamp on each end. Nothing in that circuit is pressurized, which keeps the work simple and the tooling minimal.

Removal Step by Step

Turn the petcock to OFF before anything else. On a carbureted machine like this Foreman that valve stops fuel flow completely, so there is no pump fuse to pull and no pressure to relieve. Disconnect the battery negative, remove the seat, and pull the fender panels that block your view of the tank outlet and carburetor inlet.

Position a drain pan beneath the carburetor and open the float bowl drain screw on the bottom of the bowl. Let it empty into the pan, then retighten the screw. With most of the fuel out of the system, slide both hose clamps well back along the line. Twist the hose a quarter turn on each barb to break the varnish bond before pulling, and if it has hardened onto the spigot, slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it off rather than prying at the fitting. Photograph the routing before the last end releases, since this 4x4 chassis routes the hose past front differential and driveshaft hardware through specific frame clearance points and clips.

A Genuine Word About Fuel Safety

Gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It does not float away out an open window; it sinks, spreads across the floor, and travels until it finds a pilot light or heater element. That is the practical reason to work outdoors or with the overhead door wide open rather than in a closed garage. Shut down every ignition source, keep gloves on because gasoline strips the oils from skin, and put the drained fuel into a sealed approved container instead of leaving an open pan on the floor.

Why the Original Hose Wore Out

Age does the bulk of the damage. Rubber fuel line loses plasticizers with every heat cycle, and after many years the wall stiffens into something closer to hard plastic than flexible rubber. A stiff hose no longer absorbs vibration, so it cracks, and the bends go first.

Climate and fuel chemistry both push the process along. Dry, arid air pulls moisture out of the hose wall and hardens it from the outside faster than humid conditions do. Ethanol-blended pump gas works from the inside, attracting water and slowly degrading the inner liner. A Foreman left standing through a long off-season with E10 in the system can develop gum and shed liner particles that flow straight into the float bowl and plug the jets on a carbureted engine.

Recognizing a Failing Line

  • Fuel pooling under the machine or a dried stain on the floor where it usually sits
  • A persistent gasoline odor around the tank with no obvious source
  • Cracking, checking, or a chalky hardened texture along the hose
  • A dust-caked brown residue ring at either fitting from slow seepage
  • The engine bogging on climbs, running lean, or behaving as though the tank is empty when it is not

Running symptoms are worth taking as seriously as visible damage. An internally collapsed hose restricts flow and a relaxed clamp draws air, and either will starve the carburetor without leaving a single drop on the ground.

Tools and Parts Worth Having Ready

  • Gasoline-rated fuel line matched to this Foreman's original inside diameter
  • New hose clamps or a small clamp assortment to replace tired factory clamps
  • Nitrile or rubber gloves and eye protection
  • A drain bucket or approved fuel container with a lid, plus plenty of rags
  • Pliers, a flat-blade screwdriver, a sharp razor blade, and sockets for the bodywork

Installing the New Hose and Leak Testing

Lay the old hose next to the new roll and cut to matching length. Extra hose is not helpful; it sags into the frame, wears through where it touches, or kinks at a loop. Slide each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms against the shoulder, softening the ends in hot water if the new rubber is stiff.

Everything goes together dry. Grease, oil, and silicone on the fittings create a path for fuel to creep out and let the hose migrate off the barb as it heats and cools, so leave the sealing surfaces clean. Set new clamps just behind the raised bead on each spigot and tighten them evenly, firm without cutting into the rubber. Route the hose back through its factory clips, keeping clearance from the front driveline and from the manual shift linkage on this FM1.

Confirm the float bowl drain screw is closed, turn the petcock to ON, and let gravity refill the bowl. Wipe both joints dry and watch them for several minutes with the engine off and a flashlight handy, since a gravity leak first shows as a slowly spreading film rather than a drip. When both ends stay dry, Reconnect the battery, start the machine, and let it idle to full temperature while you shift through the gearbox and inspect the fittings hot. Reinstall the plastics, ride a short loop nearby, and check for fuel smell when you park.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2009 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2009 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2009 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2009 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2009 Honda TRX500 Foreman 4X4 (FM1) ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.