Fuel Line Replacement for the 2009 Can-Am Renegade 800R
Shop parts for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.
The fuel hose on a 2009 Renegade 800R has been in service long enough that replacement is maintenance rather than repair. Before starting, understand the system: the 800R uses the Rotax V–twin with electronic fuel injection, the pump is mounted inside the fuel tank, and the hose that runs to the throttle body holds pressure whenever the key is on. There is no petcock on this machine, so nothing gets shut off with a lever.
How a Fuel Hose Deteriorates
Rubber fuel line ages chemically whether the quad is ridden or parked. The plasticizers that keep the compound flexible slowly migrate out, so the wall stiffens, loses its ability to damp vibration, and eventually develops hairline cracks. On an 800R those cracks tend to appear first at the clamped ends, where heat from the V–twin and constant chassis flex concentrate the stress.
Two environmental factors accelerate it. Dry, arid air pulls residual moisture out of the hose wall and hardens it from the outside in, which is why machines kept in desert regions show that chalky, finely fissured surface far earlier. Ethanol–blended pump gasoline works in the opposite direction, attacking the inner liner and leaving gum and varnish behind, especially when the Renegade sits for months with old fuel sitting in the line. A hose subjected to both can be brittle outside and soft inside simultaneously.
Spotting Trouble Early
- A distinct gasoline smell around the tank, most noticeable immediately after shutdown while the system is still pressurized
- A wet film or slow drip on the skid plate after the machine has been sitting
- Cracks, a glassy hardened feel, or a permanent flat groove where a clamp has been seated for years
- Bogging when the V–twin is loaded up, or a lean stumble at higher rpm that feels like fuel starvation
- Longer cranking than normal after an overnight sit, which indicates pressure bleeding off through a weep
- A ring of caked dirt at a fitting, showing where fuel has been seeping and evaporating
Do not dismiss a fuel odor because you cannot find a puddle. On a pressurized circuit, small leaks frequently atomize and evaporate before they ever drip.
Assembling Tools and Working Safely
Have all of this in reach before you crack a fitting: rubber or nitrile gloves, eye protection, a sealed fuel–rated container, a shallow drain pan, injection–rated replacement hose in the correct inside diameter, new clamps sized to the fittings, line–clamping pliers to substitute for the missing petcock, a quick–connect release tool if the tank outlet uses one, a razor or sharp hose cutter, plenty of rags, and the sockets needed for the seat, panels, and racks.
The ventilation warning is real, not a formality. Gasoline vapor is denser than air, so it collects near the floor and can travel across a garage to reach a furnace pilot or an arcing charger. Work outdoors when you can, or with the door fully open and a fan sweeping air along floor level. Remove every ignition source from the area and stay gloved throughout.
Getting the Old Line Out of the Chassis
Relieve pressure first: pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine until it stalls for lack of supply, turn the key off, and disconnect the battery negative cable. Then remove the seat and enough bodywork to expose the tank outlet and trace the hose forward to the throttle body.
Slide the drain pan under the run and drape a rag over the first fitting you separate, because residual fuel remains in the hose even after the pressure is gone. Walk any worm or spring clamp well back along the hose before you disturb the joint. On a quick–connect coupler, press the locking tabs squarely inward and pull the collar straight off with no sideways leverage, since the plastic on a coupler this old has grown brittle and will split if pried.
Varnish commonly bonds an old hose to its barb. Break it loose with a small twist rather than force, or slit the hose lengthwise and peel it away so the fitting takes no damage. This is a 4x4 chassis, and the line passes front differential hardware and additional frame crossmembers that a two–wheel–drive machine does not have. Photograph every clip, guide, and clearance point before the old hose leaves so reassembly follows the same path.
Installing the New Hose and Verifying It
Cut the fresh hose to the exact length of the piece you removed. Excess length is not a safety margin; it chafes against frame tubes or interferes with the steering stem. Push each end fully onto its barb until it stops against the shoulder, and do it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray have no place on a fuel fitting, because a slick sealing surface is exactly what lets pressurized fuel creep past a clamp. If the hose refuses to slide on, soften the end in hot water for thirty seconds.
Install new clamps immediately behind the raised bead on each fitting and tighten them evenly rather than bearing down on one side. If a self–locking quick–connect is used at the tank, push until it clicks and then tug to confirm engagement; that connection is designed to need no clamp. Return the hose to its factory clips so it stays clear of exhaust heat and the front driveline.
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the line while everything is still dry, making the smallest seep easy to see. Wipe both joints with a clean rag and inspect them closely, then start the engine and check again at idle for a few minutes. Only when it holds dry should the plastics go back on. Worth remembering: the filter on this injected 800R is part of the in–tank pump assembly rather than an inline element, so lingering starvation after a clean hose install means the work moves inside the tank.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.
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Shop Petcocks for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 800R ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.