Swapping Out the Fuel Line on a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 500

Shop parts for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Preparation is most of this job. Fuel line work on the 2009 Renegade 500 is well within reach of anyone comfortable pulling plastics and turning a screwdriver, but the Rotax twin in this quad is fuel injected, and that changes the ground rules. An in-tank electric pump keeps the line under pressure whenever the key is on, there is no petcock to close, and opening a fitting cold without bleeding the system down first will spray fuel across your workbench.

Gather This Before You Touch the Tank

Lay out the following where you can reach it one handed:

  • Rubber or nitrile gloves — repeated skin contact with gasoline is genuinely irritating
  • A drain container with a lid, metal or approved plastic, sized for more fuel than you expect
  • Replacement hose specified for fuel injection service pressure in the original inside diameter
  • A clamp kit covering the sizes on your machine, plus a quick disconnect release tool if the tank fitting uses one
  • Line clamping pliers, which stand in for the fuel valve this model does not have
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat and body panels, a sharp razor knife, and plenty of rags

Having the right hose on hand matters more than most riders expect. Generic tubing sold for gravity fed carburetor systems is not built to hold injection pressure and will balloon or weep at the clamp.

Gasoline Deserves Respect

Gasoline vapor sinks. It collects at floor level where a water heater pilot, a shop heater, or a stray spark from a grinder can find it, and it does not need much of a source. Open the overhead door completely or move the Renegade outside, put the fuel can somewhere it cannot tip, and pull the negative battery cable so nothing energizes accidentally. Keep a rag over any open fitting instead of letting fuel run freely down the frame.

How Age and Ethanol Take a Hose Apart

Two separate processes attack a fuel line, and they meet in the middle. From the outside, the hose gradually sheds the plasticizers that keep it flexible. What was once pliable rubber turns firm, then brittle, and the constant heat cycling from the V-twin plus chassis flex on rough terrain drives cracks into that hardened surface. Arid environments accelerate the change noticeably, because low humidity keeps pulling moisture out of the hose wall.

From the inside, ethanol-blended fuel does its own damage. Alcohol draws water into the fuel and slowly degrades the inner liner, leaving a soft, tacky layer that sheds particles downstream. A Renegade that sat a full season on stale E10 can carry a hose that looks fine on the outside while it quietly comes apart within. On a machine of this vintage, calendar age alone justifies a fresh line.

Catching Trouble on a Walkaround

Symptoms usually appear well before a hose lets go completely. Look for a fuel puddle or damp streak beneath the quad after it has been parked, a persistent gasoline smell hanging around the tank, and visible cracking or a hardened patch anywhere along the hose run. Squeeze the line by hand: healthy rubber compresses and rebounds, while an aged section feels like plastic pipe. On the performance side, a failing line shows up as bogging under load, a lean stumble when you get on the throttle, or an engine that acts like it is running out of gas at a quarter tank. Pay attention to the fittings too, where a dust-crusted ring often marks a slow seep.

Depressurizing and Disconnecting

Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, then bump the starter until the engine quits. That single step relieves the pressure trapped in the line and turns a messy job into a controlled one. Key off, negative cable off, then remove the seat and the side panels to reach the tank and trace the hose toward the throttle body.

Slide the catch pan into position. Work each clamp back from its fitting, then break the hose loose with a gentle twist rather than a hard pull – fuel varnish bonds rubber to brass surprisingly well. If a section refuses to move, slit it along its length with the razor and peel it off the barb; a ruined hose you are discarding anyway is far cheaper than a damaged fitting. Quick connect couplers get squeezed on both tabs and pulled straight back with no side load.

Note the routing carefully as it comes free. This is a 4x4 machine, and the line detours around front differential hardware and additional frame crossmembers that a two wheel drive quad would not have in the way. Photograph the clips before you lose the reference.

Routing and Clamping the New Hose

Measure the old hose and cut the new one to the same length. Anything longer will rub or interfere. Press each end all the way onto its barb, dry, with no grease or lubricant of any kind on the sealing surface — lubricant is exactly what lets pressurized fuel find a way out. Warm water softens a tight end enough to seat it. Place the new clamps behind the retaining bead and snug them uniformly, then click any self locking quick connect home and pull on it to verify the latch. Reseat the hose in every original clip so it stays clear of the driveline and exhaust.

Pressure Test Before the Plastics Go Back

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times. The pump will pressurize the circuit each time, which lets you inspect a dry system under real pressure. Feel around both joints with a bare fingertip after wiping them clean. Start the engine, let it idle, and check again as it warms.

Keep in mind that the filter on this injected Renegade rides inside the tank with the pump assembly rather than sitting inline where you can inspect it. If fuel delivery still feels weak after a leak free hose swap, the in-tank module is the logical next suspect.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2009 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.