Renewing the Fuel Line on a 2008 Can-Am Renegade 800 X
Shop parts for a 2008 Can-Am Renegade 800 X ATV.
Rubber does not last forever, and on a Renegade 800 X that has been in service since 2008, the original fuel hose has had well over a decade to harden, crack, and quietly lose its grip on the fittings. Understanding what actually destroys a fuel line makes the difference between replacing one on your schedule and replacing one on the side of a trail.
The Two Ways a Fuel Line Dies
Degradation happens from both directions at once. On the outside, every heat cycle from the Rotax 800 V-twin drives plasticizers out of the rubber. The hose grows stiff, loses the elasticity it needs to move with the chassis, and eventually develops surface checking that deepens into real cracks. Dry climates speed this along noticeably; low ambient humidity pulls moisture from the hose wall year after year and hardens it from the surface inward, which is why identical machines in Arizona and Ohio age at different rates.
On the inside, ethanol does the work. E10 pump gas absorbs and holds water, and when an 800 X sits through a long off-season with that blend standing in the line, the alcohol attacks the inner liner while the lighter components evaporate and leave a gummy residue. So the hose hardens from outside and softens from inside simultaneously. A line can pass a visual inspection and still be shedding fine particulate toward the injectors, which is why age is a legitimate replacement trigger on a machine this old regardless of appearance.
How This Renegade Delivers Fuel
The 2008 Renegade 800 X came with electronic fuel injection on its 800cc Rotax twin, not a carburetor. Practically, that means there is no petcock under the tank to rotate closed. Fuel leaves the tank through an electric pump module mounted inside the tank itself, and the line downstream of it stays pressurized after shutdown. Step one of the job is therefore bleeding pressure, not shutting a valve. That same in-tank module houses the fuel filter, so the hose you are replacing has no serviceable filter element spliced into it.
The 800 X is a 4x4, and the front differential and its mounts add clearance points the hose must navigate. Nothing about the procedure changes, but expect a slightly longer routing with more retaining clips than a two-wheel-drive quad would use.
Catching a Bad Line Early
- Fuel pooled or smeared on the skid plate, or a small stain on the floor where the quad sits
- A gasoline smell that hangs around the machine, sharpest right after shutdown while the circuit still holds pressure
- Hairline cracks, a chalky white surface, or a stretch of hose that feels rigid when pinched
- Dirt caked in a ring around a fitting, which marks where fuel has been seeping and drying
- Bogging under load, hesitation when you get on the throttle, or symptoms that mimic running out of gas
Do not rely solely on finding a puddle. A high-pressure pinhole on an injected machine frequently atomizes fuel into vapor that never reaches the ground, so trust your nose and inspect closely when something smells wrong.
Preparation and Handling Gasoline Sensibly
Collect everything before you open the system so you are never hunting for a tool with fuel running down your wrist:
- Nitrile or rubber gloves — gasoline defats skin quickly and absorbs through it
- A sealed metal or fuel-rated plastic container for drained fuel
- New hose in the original inside diameter, rated for fuel-injection pressure rather than gravity-feed use
- Replacement clamps matching the existing style, plus a quick-disconnect tool if the tank fitting is a locking coupler
- Line-clamping pliers, which are your stand-in for the petcock this model lacks
- Sockets for the seat and side plastics, a razor blade, a small screwdriver, and a stack of rags
Work in open air or with the garage door raised all the way. Gasoline vapor is denser than air and collects at floor level where it can find an ignition source you forgot about, so ventilation low to the ground is the part that matters. Keep water heaters, shop heaters, grinders, and hot lamps out of the picture entirely.
Getting the Old Hose Off Cleanly
Start by depressurizing. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the engine until it stalls, turn the key off, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the seat and whatever side panels stand between you and the tank outlet, then trace the hose back to the throttle body end.
Slide a catch pan beneath the joints and drape a rag over the first fitting you break loose, since standing fuel remains in the hose even after pressure is relieved. Move any worm-gear or spring clamp well back along the hose before disturbing the connection. Quick-connect couplers come apart when both tabs are depressed squarely and the fitting is drawn straight back — do not pry, because fifteen-year-old plastic collars split easily. If the hose has varnished itself to a barb, twist gently to break the bond, or slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it away rather than putting force on the fitting. Record the routing and clip locations before the hose leaves the chassis.
Installation and Final Verification
Cut the new hose to the same length as the old one. Excess length is not a favor to yourself; it invites chafing on frame edges and contact with the front driveline. Push each end all the way onto its barb until it seats, and do it dry — no grease, no oil, no silicone. Any lubricant on a sealing surface creates the exact path pressurized fuel uses to work its way out. Hot water briefly applied to a stiff hose end solves the fitment struggle without lubricant.
Position fresh clamps just behind the bead on each fitting and tighten evenly. A self-locking quick-connect at the tank needs no clamp at all; push until the collar clicks and confirm the latch with a firm pull. Route the hose back through every original clip so it clears the exhaust and the differential area.
Then test it before you ride. Reinstall the pump fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without starting. Each cycle pressurizes the circuit while the fittings are still dry and easy to read. Wipe both joints, fire the engine, and study them again at idle for several minutes. Shut down and check one final time before the plastics go back on. If the 800 X still runs like it is short on fuel after a clean hose install, the in-tank pump and filter assembly is the next thing to examine.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2008 Can-Am Renegade 800 X ATV.
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Shop Petcocks for a 2008 Can-Am Renegade 800 X ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2008 Can-Am Renegade 800 X ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2008 Can-Am Renegade 800 X ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.