Changing Out the Fuel Line on a 2008 Can-Am Renegade 800

Shop parts for a 2008 Can-Am Renegade 800 ATV.

Any job that involves opening a fuel system starts with the workspace, not the wrench. Your 2008 Renegade 800 carries the Rotax 800 V–twin with electronic fuel injection, which means the pump lives inside the tank, the hose running to the throttle body is pressurized with the key on, and there is no petcock to close before you begin. Set up correctly and this is a comfortable afternoon repair.

Setting Up the Space and Handling Fuel Safely

Gasoline vapor is heavier than air. It sinks, spreads along the floor, and finds ignition sources you were not thinking about, which is why a cracked window above the bench does nothing useful. Roll the Renegade outside if the weather allows, or open the shop door completely and set a fan to move air across floor level. Shut off pilot lights on any water heater or furnace in the space, unplug battery chargers, and put grinders and torches away entirely.

Wear nitrile or rubber gloves from start to finish. Fuel strips the natural oils out of skin quickly, and repeated exposure does more damage than most people expect. Eye protection matters too, because a pressurized fitting can spit when it separates. If you soak a shirt sleeve, change it rather than working in it.

Parts and Tools to Have Ready

  • A sealed fuel–rated container plus a shallow drain pan low enough to slide under the frame
  • Replacement hose rated for injection pressure, sized to the original inside diameter
  • Fresh clamps matched to the fittings, or a small assortment kit
  • Line–clamping pliers to pinch off flow in place of the petcock this model does not have
  • A quick–connect release tool if the tank outlet uses a locking coupler
  • A sharp hose cutter or razor blade, a small flat screwdriver, and rags
  • Sockets and drivers for the seat, side panels, and rack hardware in the way

Why the Original Hose Is Due

Time, not mileage, retires a fuel line. The plasticizers that keep the rubber flexible slowly migrate out of the compound until the wall is stiff enough that it can no longer absorb vibration, and once that happens fine cracks start forming, usually right where a clamp holds it. Heat cycling off the V–twin drives the process, and ordinary frame flex over rough ground finishes it.

Location shapes the timeline. In dry, arid regions the hose wall loses moisture and hardens from the outside in, developing a chalky surface and hairline fissures years earlier than it would in humid country. From the other direction, ethanol–blended gasoline chemically softens the inner liner, particularly when the machine sits between riding seasons with stale fuel still in the system, and leaves gum behind as it degrades. On a Renegade this age, the original line has been fighting both mechanisms for well over a decade.

Recognizing a Line That Is About to Let Go

The clues are consistent across these machines. Look for fuel wetness or a small puddle on the skid plate after the quad has been parked, and a gasoline smell that lingers around the tank and is sharpest in the minute after shutdown while pressure remains in the circuit. Physically, check for cracking, a hardened glassy texture, or a permanent flattened set at each clamp location. Dirt caked into a damp ring at a fitting marks a slow seep that has been going on for a while.

Then there is how the engine behaves. Bogging under load, a lean stumble at higher rpm, or hesitation that mimics running out of gas all point at inadequate delivery. Extended cranking after an overnight sit suggests the circuit is losing pressure through a weep. Because injected leaks often atomize instead of dripping, a persistent fuel odor with no visible puddle still warrants investigation.

Removal and Installation

Depressurize before anything else. Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the starter until the engine stalls, switch the key off, and disconnect the battery negative cable. Remove the seat and enough plastic to see the tank outlet and follow the hose to the throttle body.

Position the drain pan and cover the first joint with a rag, since residual fuel stays in the hose after pressure is gone. Slide worm or spring clamps well back along the hose before disturbing the fitting. Quick–connect couplers need their tabs pressed squarely and the collar pulled straight off, never levered sideways, because plastic of this vintage cracks under side load. Where the hose has varnished to a barb, a gentle twist breaks the bond; if not, slit it lengthwise and peel it off to protect the fitting. As a 4x4, this Renegade routes its line past front differential components and extra frame crossmembers, so photograph every clip and clearance point while the original hose is still in place.

Cut the replacement to the same length as what came off. Push each end fully onto its barb until it seats, working dry, and keep grease, oil, and silicone entirely away from the fittings; lubricant on a sealing surface is how pressurized fuel finds its way out past a clamp. A stiff hose end softens nicely after thirty seconds in hot water. Set new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and tighten evenly. A self–locking quick–connect gets pushed until it clicks, then tugged to verify the latch, and takes no clamp. Route the hose through its original guides so it stays clear of exhaust heat and driveline hardware.

Proving the Repair Before You Ride

Refit the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off four or five times without cranking. Every cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the line, which lets you find a weep while the area is still dry and easy to read. Wipe both joints clean, inspect under good light, then start the engine and check again at idle for several minutes, watching for a bead forming at either connection.

Once it holds dry, reinstall the plastics and the seat. Keep one platform detail in mind: on this injected Renegade the fuel filter is integrated with the in–tank pump module rather than sitting inline where you can service it. A fresh hose fixes hose problems, so if the engine still behaves starved afterward, the assembly inside the tank is the next stop.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2008 Can-Am Renegade 800 ATV.

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Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2008 Can-Am Renegade 800 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.