Fuel Line Renewal on a 2008 Can-Am Outlander 800 XT
Shop parts for a 2008 Can-Am Outlander 800 XT ATV.
Everything about this job on a 2008 Outlander 800 XT hinges on one piece of knowledge: the machine is fuel injected. Riders who learned on carbureted quads reach for a petcock that does not exist on this platform, and that is exactly the assumption that turns a straightforward hose swap into a mess on the garage floor.
Reading the Fuel Hardware on This Model
The Rotax 800 V-twin in your Outlander is fed by an electric pump that lives inside the fuel tank, not by gravity flow to a carburetor. The line you are replacing carries pressurized fuel and stays loaded even after the key comes off, which is why the first step of removal is bleeding that pressure down. The pump module also houses the filter element and pressure regulator, so there is no inline canister on the visible hose to change. Depending on how your machine is plumbed, one or both connections may be a self-locking quick-connect coupler rather than a barb with a worm clamp, and the replacement hose has to be rated for injection pressure rather than sold as general carburetor tubing. XT trim adds a winch, bumpers, and a hitch, which crowd the front end but leave the fuel routing itself alone.
The Reasons Fuel Hose Ages Out
A hose does not have to be abused to fail. Repeated heat cycling from the V-twin drives plasticizers out of the rubber wall year after year, and a line that was soft and springy when new becomes stiff and glassy. Once it no longer flexes, the ordinary movement of a chassis working through ruts turns that rigidity into checks and eventually splits. Dry, low-humidity climates make the timeline shorter, because the ambient air keeps drawing moisture out of the material.
The other half of the story happens inside. Ethanol-blended gasoline pulls water into the system and slowly degrades the hose liner, which softens, swells, and starts shedding fine particles downstream toward the injectors. Stretches where the machine sits unridden are the worst, since standing fuel has time to gum and varnish against a wall that has already lost integrity. On a machine of this vintage, both processes have been running for a long while.
What a Failing Line Looks and Smells Like
- Raw gasoline odor around the tank and rear fenders, sharpest right after shutdown while pressure remains
- A puddle under the machine or a wet streak on the skid plate after it has been parked overnight
- Fine cracking, a chalky gray surface, or a permanently pinched section beneath an old clamp
- A dirt-caked crust at a fitting from fuel seeping and drying repeatedly
- Bogging under load, a hesitation on hard throttle, or the engine behaving as if the tank were nearly dry
Do not wait for a puddle. On a pressurized system, fuel escaping a pinhole frequently atomizes and evaporates before it can drip, so a persistent smell with a dry floor still means something is wrong.
Preparation and Real Fuel Safety
- Nitrile or rubber gloves and eye protection
- A shallow drain pan and a sealed, fuel-rated container for captured fuel
- Injection-rated replacement hose matched to the original diameter
- New clamps in the correct style, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if needed
- Line-clamping pliers to close off a soft section, because this quad has no fuel valve
- Hand tools for the seat, racks, and plastics, a razor blade, and plenty of clean rags
Ventilation deserves genuine attention. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and pools at floor level, so an open garage door or working outside beats a cracked window every time. Kill pilot lights and shop heaters, keep grinders and other spark sources away, and let the exhaust cool completely before you start reaching past it.
Working the Original Line Loose
Bleed the pressure by pulling the fuel pump fuse or relay, then cranking the engine briefly until it stalls. Turn the key off and disconnect the battery negative terminal. Remove the seat and side panels to expose the tank and the hose run toward the throttle body. Slide the pan underneath and drape a rag over each joint as you separate it, because residual fuel comes out even with the pressure gone.
Push clamps well clear along the hose before you touch the fitting. On a locking coupler, press the tabs squarely and pull straight out; sideways force cracks plastic collars that have grown brittle over many seasons. Break the varnish bond by twisting the hose on the barb instead of yanking, and when an end refuses to move, slit it lengthwise and peel it away to protect the fitting underneath. Document the routing with photos while it is intact. This Outlander is a 4x4, so the hose threads past the front differential and additional frame crossmembers, and reproducing that exact route keeps the new line away from moving parts and heat.
Fitting the Replacement and Proving It
Cut the new hose to match the old one and resist leaving extra. Slack chafes on frame tubes and can drift toward the exhaust. Seat each end fully on its barb, working dry, and keep grease, oil, and silicone spray entirely off the fittings, because lubricant on a sealing surface gives pressurized fuel a path to creep out past the clamp. Dip a tight end in hot water for a few seconds if it fights you. Place new clamps just behind the raised bead at each fitting and tighten them evenly rather than crushing the hose. A self-locking coupler gets pushed until it clicks and then pulled on firmly to verify the latch, and wants no clamp. Return the hose to every clip it originally used.
Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times without cranking so the pump pressurizes the line. Inspect both joints with a clean rag while everything sits still, watching for the faintest darkening. Then start the twin, let it idle, and check again with vibration in the system. After several leak-free minutes, reinstall the bodywork and seat. Should fuel delivery still feel weak, the in-tank pump and filter assembly is where to look next rather than the hose you just installed.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2008 Can-Am Outlander 800 XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2008 Can-Am Outlander 800 XT ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2008 Can-Am Outlander 800 XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2008 Can-Am Outlander 800 XT ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2008 Can-Am Outlander 800 XT ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.