Fuel Line Service on a 2007 Can-Am Renegade 800

Shop parts for a 2007 Can-Am Renegade 800 ATV.

A 2007 Renegade 800 is old enough now that its original fuel hose has almost certainly outlived its useful life, whether or not it has started leaking yet. This first–generation Renegade runs the Rotax 800 V–twin with electronic fuel injection, so the fuel system behaves nothing like the carbureted quads of the era. There is no petcock beneath the tank, the pump sits inside the tank, and the hose feeding the throttle body carries pressure any time the key is on.

Symptoms That Show Up First

On a machine approaching two decades old, the earliest warning is usually your nose. A gasoline odor that lingers around the tank after shutdown, while the circuit still holds pressure, means fuel is escaping somewhere. From there the list broadens: a wet film or small puddle collecting on the skid plate after a ride, a dust–caked ring around a fitting where seeping fuel has trapped dirt, and visible cracking or a glassy hardened feel when you pinch the hose.

Running symptoms follow. A compromised line shows up as bogging when the V–twin is under load, a lean stumble at higher rpm, or hesitation that feels like the tank is nearly dry. Extended cranking after an overnight sit points to pressure bleeding down through a weep you may not be able to see, since a pressurized leak often atomizes rather than dripping.

The Chemistry and Physics Behind Failure

Fuel hose does not so much wear out as time out. The plasticizers that give the rubber its flexibility gradually migrate out of the compound, and the wall progresses from supple to stiff to brittle. Every heat cycle from the big twin pushes that along, and normal frame flex works fine cracks into the surface, typically starting right at a clamped end.

Where the machine lives matters. Arid climates pull moisture out of the hose wall, hardening it from the outside and producing that chalky, finely fissured look years early. Ethanol–blended gasoline comes at the liner from the inside, softening it chemically and leaving gum and varnish behind whenever the Renegade sits between seasons with old fuel in the system. A hose can be hard on the outside and degraded on the inside at the same time, which is exactly why age alone justifies replacement on an original 2007 line.

What You Need on the Bench

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves plus eye protection
  • A sealed fuel–rated container and a shallow drain pan that slides under the frame
  • Replacement hose rated for injection pressure, matched to the original inside diameter rather than generic carburetor tubing
  • New clamps in the correct size, or a small clamp assortment
  • Line–clamping pliers, since there is no petcock on this model to shut off flow
  • A quick–connect release tool in case the tank outlet uses a locking coupler
  • A sharp hose cutter or razor, rags, and sockets for the seat, plastics, and rack hardware

Handle the fuel with genuine respect. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, settles at floor level, and can travel to a pilot light or charger well away from where you are working. Do this job outdoors when possible, or with the shop door fully open and air moving across the floor rather than overhead. No grinders, torches, heaters, or open flames anywhere nearby, and keep gloves on for the duration.

Working the Old Hose Free

Begin by depressurizing. Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay, crank the starter until the engine dies from lack of supply, turn the key off, then disconnect the battery negative cable. Take the seat off and pull enough bodywork to see the tank outlet and follow the hose to the throttle body.

Slide the drain pan into place and drape a rag over the fitting you open first, because residual fuel remains in the hose after pressure is relieved. Push worm or spring clamps well back before you disturb the joint. On a quick–connect coupler, squeeze the locking tabs evenly and pull the collar straight off; do not lever it sideways, since the plastic on an eighteen–year–old coupler has lost most of its toughness.

Expect the hose to be varnished onto the barbs at this age. Twist it gently to break the bond, and if it still will not release, slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it away rather than risking damage to the fitting. This is a 4x4 chassis, so the run threads past front differential hardware and additional frame crossmembers. Photograph each clip and clearance point before the old hose is out so routing is not guesswork on reassembly.

Installation, Leak Check, and Finishing

Cut the new hose to match the original length precisely. Extra length is a liability; it chafes on frame tubes or fouls the steering. Seat each end fully onto its barb, dry, with no grease, oil, or silicone anywhere on the sealing surface. A lubricated fitting is a leak waiting for pressure. Dip a stiff hose end in hot water for half a minute if it resists.

Fit new clamps just behind the raised bead on each barb and tighten them evenly rather than crushing one edge. Where a self–locking quick–connect is used, push until it clicks and pull firmly to confirm it latched; that joint takes no clamp. Return the hose to its factory clips so it stays away from exhaust heat and the front driveline.

Reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, then cycle the key on and off several times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the hose while the surrounding area is still dry, which is the easiest way to catch a slow weep. Wipe both joints and inspect closely, then start the engine and check again at idle for several minutes before the plastics go back on. One closing note specific to this injected platform: the fuel filter is built into the in–tank pump module rather than living inline on the visible hose, so continued starvation after a clean install means looking inside the tank next.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2007 Can-Am Renegade 800 ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2007 Can-Am Renegade 800 ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2007 Can-Am Renegade 800 ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2007 Can-Am Renegade 800 ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2007 Can-Am Renegade 800 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.