Replacing the Fuel Line on Your 2007 Can-Am Rally 200

Shop parts for a 2007 Can-Am Rally 200 ATV.

Rubber does not last forever, and on a machine that has been in service since 2007 the fuel line is one of the parts most likely to have quietly aged out. The Rally 200 is a small-displacement, single-cylinder, two-wheel-drive quad with a carburetor, which is very good news for this particular job. A carbureted layout means gravity feed, a petcock under the tank you can simply turn off, ordinary hose clamps at each end, and a float bowl with a drain you can use. There is no electric pump, no pressurized circuit, and none of the pressure-relief ritual that a fuel-injected Rotax machine demands before a fitting can be opened.

Why Old Lines Give Out

Fuel hose ages through two separate mechanisms that happen to attack the same piece of rubber. On the outside, the plasticizers that keep the hose flexible slowly migrate out of the material. What remains is stiff and brittle, and the engine's heat cycles combined with chassis vibration open fine cracks in that hardened surface, usually right where the hose curves around a frame tube or the carburetor inlet. Riders in dry, low-humidity country see this progress faster, because arid air pulls moisture out of the hose wall and hastens the hardening.

On the inside, ethanol-blended pump gas takes its own toll. The alcohol content pulls in moisture and gradually degrades the hose liner, leaving behind gum and softened rubber. A Rally 200 that sits between seasons with fuel still in the line gives that reaction all the time it needs. Because of this two-sided attack, a hose can look presentable and still be crumbling internally, so age alone justifies a replacement on a machine of this vintage.

Reading the Symptoms

A gravity-fed system tends to advertise its problems clearly. Watch for these:

  • A gasoline puddle or damp patch on the floor beneath the tank or carburetor after the quad has been parked
  • A fuel odor hanging around the machine even when the petcock is closed
  • Fine surface cracking, a chalky gray look, or a hardened section that no longer springs back when pinched
  • Bogging, surging, or a lean stumble that comes and goes, which suggests a partially collapsed line or a joint drawing air
  • Hard starting and a machine that acts as though the tank is low when it is not

Because the Rally 200 relies on gravity rather than pump pressure, even a modest restriction in the hose can starve the carburetor at higher throttle openings while idling perfectly well.

Assembling Tools and Setting Up Safely

Have all of this laid out before you begin:

  • Nitrile or rubber gloves, because gasoline dries out and irritates skin quickly
  • A drain bucket or fuel-rated container to catch what comes out of the tank and float bowl
  • Replacement hose in the correct inside diameter for the Rally 200's carburetor inlet
  • New hose clamps or a small clamp kit, since original clamps are often rusted or fatigued
  • A small flat-blade screwdriver, pliers, and a socket set for the seat and side panel fasteners
  • Line-clamping pliers as an optional backup — a working petcock makes them unnecessary here, though they are essential on injected machines that lack a shutoff valve

Handle the gasoline itself with respect. Work outdoors or with the door open wide, because fuel vapor is heavier than air and pools at floor level where ordinary ventilation never reaches it. Extinguish pilot lights, unplug chargers and heaters, and keep an extinguisher nearby. Never drain fuel into an open pan you plan to leave sitting.

Getting the Old Hose Out

Turn the petcock to the off position first and give it a moment to stop flow. Pull the seat and any side panel that blocks the run between the tank outlet and the carburetor. With the petcock closed, use the float bowl drain screw to empty the residual fuel in the bowl into your container, which keeps that gasoline from running down the frame when you pull the hose. Set the drain pan under the carburetor before anything comes apart.

Loosen each clamp and slide it well back along the hose. Twist the hose gently on its barb to break the varnish bond rather than pulling straight and hard, which stresses the petcock spigot and the carburetor inlet. If a hose end has bonded itself solid, slice it lengthwise with a razor blade and peel it off the fitting; a brittle nine-figure-mileage hose is not worth saving, and the fitting is. Since the Rally 200 is two-wheel drive, the routing is refreshingly simple — there is no front differential or additional driveline structure to work around, unlike the 4x4 utility machines where the line has to be threaded past extra frame bracing.

Fitting the New Line

Cut the replacement to the same length as the original. A hose that is too long sags into the frame and chafes; one that is too short tugs at its fittings every time the engine moves on its mounts. Slide each end fully onto its barb until it seats against the shoulder, and do it dry. Skip grease, oil, and spray lubricant on the fittings completely — anything slick on that sealing surface leaves a path for fuel to weep past the clamp. If the hose is stubborn, dip the end in hot water for a few seconds to soften it.

Position the new clamps just behind the bead on the petcock spigot and the carburetor inlet, then tighten them evenly. Snug is the goal, not crushed; over-tightening a worm-gear clamp can cut into fresh rubber. Make sure the finished hose follows its original path with a gentle sweep, well clear of the exhaust and free of any kink that would restrict gravity flow.

Leak Check and Final Steps

Close the float bowl drain, then open the petcock and let fuel fill the line. Watch both connections for a full minute before you do anything else, and run a clean dry rag around each joint to reveal seepage you might not see. Start the engine, let it idle, and check once more with the machine level, since a leak sometimes only shows with vibration and heat in the system. Watch the underside of the carburetor as well, because a hose replacement often disturbs an aging float bowl gasket.

When the joints stay dry through several minutes of idling and a short ride around the yard, reinstall the panels and seat. Worth noting for contrast: on the Rally 200 the fuel filter is an accessible inline or petcock-mounted element, unlike fuel-injected machines where the filter sits inside the tank as part of the pump assembly. Replacing that filter at the same time as the hose is cheap insurance and takes only a few extra minutes.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2007 Can-Am Rally 200 ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2007 Can-Am Rally 200 ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2007 Can-Am Rally 200 ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2007 Can-Am Rally 200 ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2007 Can-Am Rally 200 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.