Fuel Line Replacement on a 2007 Can-Am Outlander 800

Shop parts for a 2007 Can-Am Outlander 800 ATV.

A 2007 Outlander 800 has had a long time for its rubber to age, and that changes how you plan the job. On a machine this old you should expect fittings that have varnished themselves in place, plastic that has grown brittle, and hardware that does not want to move. Set up properly and none of that is a problem. Start swinging tools without a plan and it becomes one.

Get Organized Before the First Fitting

  • Replacement hose rated for injection pressure, matched to the factory inside diameter
  • New clamps in the original style, plus a quick-disconnect release tool if your fittings are locking couplers
  • Line-clamping pliers for pinching off a low-pressure section
  • Nitrile or rubber gloves and eye protection
  • An approved sealed fuel container and a shallow drain pan that fits under the frame
  • Sockets for the seat and side panels, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a fresh razor blade, and a stack of rags

Trace the hose from the tank outlet forward to the throttle body on the Rotax V-twin and photograph every clip, guide, and clearance point before you disturb anything. On an eighteen year old machine, some of those clips will be the original plastic and will need gentle handling.

Ventilation and Gasoline Discipline

This is the safety point that genuinely matters. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, which means it sinks and gathers at floor level rather than drifting out a window overhead. Work outdoors when the weather allows, and when it does not, open the shop door completely. Shut off any water heater, furnace, or space heater with a standing pilot flame in the same space. Keep grinders, welders, and torches out of the area entirely, and set a fire extinguisher within arm's reach before you break a connection. The gloves earn their keep too, since gasoline strips oils from skin quickly and carries additives worth keeping off your hands.

An Early Injected V-twin, Not a Carbureted One

Despite its age, the Outlander 800 is fuel-injected, and that rules out the shortcuts an older carbureted quad would offer. There is no petcock lever to rotate to OFF, so flow is stopped by cutting power to the electric pump inside the tank rather than turning a valve. There is no float bowl drain screw. The fuel filter is integrated into that in-tank pump module instead of hanging inline where you could see and swap it. Most importantly, the circuit holds pressure after shutdown, so bleeding it down is the first physical step. Depending on the end, you may find a self-locking quick-connect coupler rather than a barb with a clamp, and after this many years those plastic collars are brittle. Confirm both ends before ordering hardware.

Eighteen Years of Rubber Fatigue

Two processes have been running on this hose since the machine was new. Heat cycling from the big twin drives plasticizers out of the compound, so the rubber has gone from soft to firm to genuinely brittle. Once it can no longer flex, engine vibration and the chassis working over rough terrain turn microscopic surface checking into open cracks. Owners in dry country reach that point sooner, since low humidity draws moisture out of the hose wall from the outside in.

Meanwhile, ethanol-blended fuel has been working on the bore. Alcohol content pulls in moisture and gradually degrades the inner liner, and the effect compounds every season the machine sits with stale fuel standing in the line. The result is a hose that hardens outward and softens inward at the same time, shedding fine debris toward injector passages that are far less forgiving than a carburetor jet. On a machine of this vintage, calendar age alone justifies replacement.

Symptoms on an Older Machine

  • A fuel smell lingering near the tank, strongest in the minutes right after you shut the key off
  • A wet shadow or real puddle on the skid plate or floor after the Outlander has sat overnight
  • Cracking, a chalky gray texture, or a section that feels hard rather than flexible when pinched
  • Bogging under load, a lean stumble at higher rpm, or behavior that mimics running low on fuel
  • A band of caked dust at a fitting, the signature of a joint that seeps and dries repeatedly

Because the line is pressurized, a small breach may atomize and evaporate rather than drip, so treat a persistent smell as evidence in its own right.

Working the Old Line Loose

Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank the engine briefly until it stumbles and quits, which burns off most of the trapped pressure. Turn the key off and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and enough side plastic to reach both ends of the hose. Position the drain pan and lay a rag across each joint as you open it, since residual fuel remains in a depressurized line.

Slide clamps well back before disturbing a connection. On a hose this old the varnish bond at the nipple will be substantial, so rotate the hose to break it free before pulling, and pull in line with the fitting rather than at an angle. Quick-connects release when both tabs are pressed evenly and the fitting is drawn straight; prying one sideways will snap an aged collar. When a hose simply will not come loose, slit it lengthwise with the razor and peel it away instead of forcing it and damaging the nipple. This is a 4x4, so the run works around front differential hardware and frame clearance points that a two-wheel-drive layout would not present.

Fresh Line, Clamps, and the Leak Check

Cut the replacement to the original length exactly, because excess hose sags into a driveline component or leans against hot exhaust. Push each end fully onto its barb until it bottoms against the shoulder, and do it completely dry. No grease, oil, or silicone belongs on a fuel fitting; a film on the sealing surface creates a path for pressurized fuel to creep along and produces a slow weep that is miserable to chase down. A brief dip in hot water softens a tight hose end enough to slide on unaided.

Set the clamps just behind the raised bead and tighten evenly, snug without cutting into the rubber. A self-locking coupler wants a firm push until it clicks and then a hard tug to confirm the latch, with no clamp added. Return the hose to every original clip, replacing any clip that broke during removal so the routing is properly supported.

To verify, reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the ignition on and off several times without cranking so the pump pressurizes the circuit. Wipe both fittings dry and watch for a bead forming. Start the V-twin and inspect once more at idle, because vibration sometimes reveals a joint that held while static. Give it several minutes of clean running before the plastics go back on, and move the drained fuel and soaked rags out of the closed space. If a bog under load persists after a leak-free install, the in-tank filter is the next candidate on a machine that has been accumulating sediment for this many years.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel Lines for a 2007 Can-Am Outlander 800 ATV.

Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2007 Can-Am Outlander 800 ATV.

Shop Petcocks for a 2007 Can-Am Outlander 800 ATV.

Shop Fuel Filters for a 2007 Can-Am Outlander 800 ATV.

Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2007 Can-Am Outlander 800 ATV.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.