Pulling and Replacing the Fuel Hose on a 2000 Foreman 400 4x4
Shop parts for a 2000 Honda TRX400 Foreman 4X4 ATV.
The part of this job that intimidates people is the removal, not the installation. Two decades of gasoline and heat leave a fuel hose effectively bonded to its fittings on a 2000 TRX400 Foreman 4x4, and the wrong technique turns a cheap repair into a damaged petcock spigot or a cracked carburetor inlet. Get the old hose off patiently and the rest of the work is almost trivial.
Breaking the Old Hose Loose Without Breaking Anything Else
Start with the petcock rotated to off and the seat and tank cover removed so you can see and reach both hose ends. Put a drain pan under the carburetor, back out the float bowl drain screw, and let the bowl and hose empty before disconnecting a thing. Retighten the screw when flow stops.
Now slide both clamps back along the hose until they clear their barbs. The critical move is rotational, not axial: twist the hose on the fitting to shear the varnish bond that has essentially glued rubber to metal, then work it off in small increments. Pulling hard is what damages fittings. If a hose end genuinely refuses to move, slit it lengthwise with a sharp utility blade and peel it away in two halves. The hose is scrap either way, and preserving the metal underneath is the only thing that matters. As the line comes free, trace it back through each clip so you know precisely how the new one should sit.
Establishing What Kind of Fuel System This Is
The 2000 Foreman 400 is carbureted. A mechanical petcock at the tank provides off, on, and reserve, and fuel reaches the carburetor by gravity, so the hose never holds pressure. That makes removal as simple as described above. A fuel–injected quad would demand a different opening sequence entirely: pull the pump fuse or relay, crank until the engine stalls to relieve residual pressure, and expect the filter to be inside the tank with the pump rather than serviceable on the visible line. Injected models may also use self–locking quick–connect couplers instead of clamps, which release by depressing tabs rather than by twisting.
Since this is the four–wheel–drive chassis, a front differential and driveshaft occupy space beneath the frame that a two–wheel–drive machine leaves open. The hose therefore runs through tighter clearance, and the clips holding it away from the driveline and the exhaust header are part of getting the reinstallation right.
Why the Hose Reached This State
Fuel hose stays pliable thanks to plasticizers blended into the rubber, and those compounds gradually migrate out and evaporate over the years. Heat cycling from the air–cooled 395cc single accelerates it. The hose stiffens progressively, its surface dries to a chalky gray, and cracks open along the tightest bend. Dry climates hasten the process by drawing moisture from the rubber wall.
Ethanol–blended fuel adds a second path to failure. Standing in the hose through a long idle period, it absorbs atmospheric moisture and degrades the inner liner, shedding particles downstream and depositing gum in the petcock screen and the carburetor's passages. That is why a hose can be hard outside and deteriorating inside at the same time.
Symptoms of a Line on Its Way Out
- Fuel puddling beneath the tank or carburetor once the machine has sat
- Gasoline odor lingering in a closed shed well after shutdown
- Visible cracking or a dried gray surface on the hose
- Hose that feels like rigid tubing rather than rubber when pinched
- Bogging under load, lean running, or a stall that imitates an empty tank
- A grime ring baked onto a fitting where fuel has been seeping and evaporating
Tools on the Bench and Air Moving Through the Shop
You want fuel–rated hose in the original inside diameter, new clamps in the original style, nitrile gloves, eye protection, a drain pan, a sealed approved fuel container, a flat–blade screwdriver, basic sockets, a sharp utility blade, rags, and a flashlight. Deliberately leave grease and penetrating oil off the bench so they never end up near a fuel fitting.
Ventilation is the safety issue that matters. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, so inside a closed garage it sinks and collects across the floor at the height you kneel rather than venting upward. Roll the Foreman outdoors if you can, or open the door fully and put a fan on the ground moving air out of the building. Extinguish pilot lights, relocate chargers and power tools, and disconnect the negative battery cable before opening any fitting.
Fitting the New Hose and Checking Your Work
Lay the removed hose flat and cut the replacement to the same length. Extra length is not a margin of safety; a sagging hose finds the exhaust or chafes a frame edge over time. Slip both clamps onto the new hose before you begin, then press each end fully onto its barb until it seats against the shoulder.
Assemble it dry. Grease, oil, and silicone spray all leave a film on the sealing surface that gives fuel a channel to creep out from beneath a clamp, and none of them are necessary. If the hose is too stiff to push on, dip the end in hot water for half a minute and it will slide home. Position each clamp just behind the raised bead on the fitting and tighten evenly, firm enough to grip the rubber without biting into it, then route the hose back through its original clips well clear of the header and the front driveline.
Reconnect the battery and turn the petcock on. Because the system is gravity fed, the hose fills immediately, so watch both joints for a full minute. A poor seal shows up quickly as a wet bead at a clamp. Wipe the fittings with a clean dry rag and inspect a second time, then start the engine and let it idle for several minutes while you check both connections with a light. Dry joints through a warm idle mean the repair is finished. Reinstall the tank cover and seat, and take one look at the ground under the machine after its first real ride.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2000 Honda TRX400 Foreman 4X4 ATV.
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Shop Fuel Filters for a 2000 Honda TRX400 Foreman 4X4 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2000 Honda TRX400 Foreman 4X4 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.