Bleeding the Brakes on Your 2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000 ABS LT
Shop parts for a 2017 Kawasaki KLE1000 - Versys 1000 ABS LT Motorcycle.
Your 2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000 ABS LT stops with a fully hydraulic disc brake at each end, and both circuits are managed by an anti-lock braking system. That means there are two separate hydraulic systems to service, each with its own master cylinder, reservoir, and caliper, and each one needs to be bled on its own. The good news is that a routine fluid refresh and air purge at the calipers is well within reach of a rider with basic hand tools and a little patience. The job rewards care more than speed, so plan on a couple of unhurried hours and work through one circuit at a time.
What You Are Actually Working With
The front brake on this bike is operated by the lever on the right handlebar, feeding a master cylinder mounted at the lever and pushing fluid down to the front caliper or calipers. The rear brake is operated by the foot pedal on the right side, with its own master cylinder and reservoir tucked into the bodywork. Because the two circuits are independent, a spongy front lever tells you nothing about the rear pedal, and vice versa. Bleed the circuit that feels wrong, or bleed both if you are refreshing fluid as maintenance.
The ABS hardware sits between the master cylinder and the calipers. For ordinary fluid changes and air that has entered at the caliper or the reservoir, a normal bleed at the caliper bleeder is all that is required. The ABS unit only becomes a problem if the reservoir ran dry while you were working, or if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected. In that case air can be trapped inside the unit, and the bike needs to go to a dealer or a shop with the appropriate diagnostic equipment.
When a Bleed Is Due
Reach for the tools when the front lever feels soft or spongy, when it pulls noticeably closer to the grip than it used to, or when the rear pedal feels vague and long. Dark, cloudy, or contaminated fluid visible in either reservoir is another clear signal. Any work that opened the hydraulic system — new brake lines, caliper service, master cylinder work, or a fluid top-up after a leak — requires a bleed afterward.
Even with no symptoms at all, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time. Moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point, and a boiled fluid produces vapor that behaves exactly like air in the line, which shows up as a lever that goes soft under hard, repeated braking. That is why many riders refresh the fluid on a regular interval rather than waiting for a problem to appear.
Tools and Supplies to Collect First
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
- Clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
- A small catch bottle for the old fluid
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for emptying the reservoir
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
- Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, which makes a solo job much easier
Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact, so keep a water source handy and wipe up any spill immediately.
Setting the Bike Up
Put the Versys on a stable stand so it sits upright and cannot tip while you are leaning on the lever. Turn the handlebars until the front reservoir sits level, then drape rags over the tank area, the instrument cluster, and the surrounding plastics. Open the front reservoir cap and lift out the diaphragm. At the rear, remove the cap from the rear reservoir in the same way. Never leave either reservoir open for long periods, and never let either one run dry during the procedure.
Bleeding the Front Circuit
- Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the front reservoir, leaving the bottom covered so no air is drawn in.
- Top up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
- Push the clear tubing onto the front bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle with a little fluid already inside it.
- Squeeze the front lever and hold it firmly against the grip.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and air will push out through the tube.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever. Releasing with the bleeder open pulls air back in.
- Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, release cycle, checking the reservoir level every few strokes and topping it up.
- Continue until the fluid coming through the tube is clean and free of bubbles, then finish with the lever held and the bleeder closed.
If your bike carries two front calipers, bleed each one in turn rather than trying to do both at once. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest one.
Bleeding the Rear Circuit
The rear follows the same rhythm with the pedal in place of the lever. Empty most of the old fluid from the rear reservoir, refill with fresh, fit the tubing to the rear bleeder, then press and hold the pedal, crack the bleeder, close it, and release. Keep the reservoir topped up throughout and continue until the fluid runs clean and bubble-free. Because the rear reservoir is small and partly hidden by bodywork, check its level more often than you think you need to.
Finishing and Checking Your Work
Tighten each bleeder snugly with the box-end wrench. Snug is enough — overtightening can damage the valve seat. Fill each reservoir to the level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away every trace of fluid. Then inspect the bleeder valves and the banjo fittings at the master cylinders and calipers for weeping or dampness.
Testing Before You Ride
Both the lever and the pedal should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally.
When to Stop and Take It to a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several rounds of bleeding, if it only firms up after pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work, stop and have the bike inspected. The same applies to fluid leaking from a master cylinder or caliper, and to any situation where the reservoir ran dry or ABS components were disturbed — air inside the ABS unit needs equipment and procedures beyond a home bleed.
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.