Why Your 2010 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE5 Is Using More Fuel Than It Should

Shop parts for a 2010 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE5 Motorcycle.

The 2010 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE5 is not a conventional motorcycle, and that shapes how it uses fuel. It runs a liquid-cooled, fuel-injected four-stroke V-twin, shifts through a semi-automatic gearbox, and sends power to the rear wheel through a belt final drive. It also carries more weight and pushes more frontal area than a two-wheeler, so it was never going to be frugal. The useful question is not how it compares to another machine — it is whether your Spyder is now using noticeably more fuel than it did before for the same kind of riding. If it is, work through the possibilities below, starting with the free checks.

Make Sure the Change Is Real

Before chasing a mechanical cause, confirm the numbers. Fill the tank, note the odometer reading or reset a trip meter, ride normally, then refill at the same pump and divide the distance covered by the fuel you added. One tank proves nothing — temperature, wind, and how you rode that day can swing the result, so track three or four tanks before drawing conclusions.

Check whether the odometer is still telling the truth, too. A change in rear tire size or profile alters the rolling circumference, which skews both the speedometer and the odometer. If the odometer under-reports distance, your calculated fuel economy will look worse than reality even though nothing is wrong. Riders who judge by how often they stop for fuel should apply the same skepticism.

Riding Conditions and Habits

Cold weather is a common culprit. A cold engine needs a richer mixture and takes longer to reach full operating temperature, so short winter rides burn disproportionately more fuel. Winter-blend and ethanol-blended fuels also return slightly lower economy than summer gasoline, and that difference is normal.

Wind and speed matter just as much on a machine this size. A steady headwind or a long stretch at sustained highway speed forces the engine to work harder than the same distance on a back road. Carrying a passenger, loading the rear storage, or pulling a trailer adds weight and drag. Aggressive throttle use, short trips that never let the engine warm through, and long idling warm-ups all quietly drain the tank as well.

Rolling Resistance, Brakes, and the Belt Drive

Underinflated tires are the most common and easiest to fix cause of a fuel economy drop. Check pressures cold, on all three tires, rather than right after a ride. Low pressure increases rolling resistance and wears the tires faster.

A dragging brake caliper does the same thing, and it often leaves a wheel feeling hot after a ride. On a Spyder, also confirm the parking brake is fully releasing — a partially engaged parking brake is easy to overlook and creates constant drag. Finally, inspect the belt. A belt adjusted too tight, misaligned, or worn adds resistance to the drivetrain.

Air Intake and Ignition

A clogged or heavily soiled air filter restricts airflow and can push the fuel injection system into a richer condition than the engine needs. If it has not been serviced in a long time, this is a cheap place to start.

Spark plugs matter too. Plugs that are worn, fouled, or gapped incorrectly can fail to ignite the mixture cleanly, so some of the fuel you paid for leaves the engine unburned. Pull them and read them: a light tan tint is normal, while a black, sooty appearance points toward a rich condition. Your Spyder uses electronic ignition, so there are no points to wear or adjust.

Fuel Injection Problems That Cause Rich Running

Because this machine is fuel injected, the causes here are electronic rather than carburetor-related. A lazy or failed oxygen sensor can prevent the system from correcting the mixture properly, leaving the engine running rich. A coolant temperature sensor that reports a colder engine than reality has the same effect, since the system adds fuel based on the temperature it believes it sees.

Dirty or leaking injectors deliver an uneven or excessive amount of fuel, and a leaking injector can also cause a hard start. On a V-twin with individual throttle bodies, synchronization that has drifted out of spec hurts both smoothness and economy. Stored fault codes are worth reading even if no warning light is showing, and any visible fuel weep should be fixed first.

Engine Condition and Cooling System Health

As an engine accumulates miles, compression can fall away through ring and valve wear, and a low-compression engine cannot convert fuel into motion as efficiently as a healthy one. Valve clearance that has drifted out of specification contributes to the same problem. These are not quick driveway checks, but they are worth ruling out on a high-mileage machine.

Since the Spyder is liquid cooled, the thermostat deserves a mention. A thermostat stuck open keeps the engine from reaching normal operating temperature, and a cold-running engine stays in its enrichment mode longer than it should. If the temperature gauge reads unusually low on a warm day, that is a clue.

Modifications That Were Never Tuned For

An aftermarket exhaust or a high-flow air filter installed without matching changes to the fuel mapping can leave the engine running rich across the rev range. If the mileage dropped right after a modification, that timing is the strongest evidence you have. Reverting the part or having the fueling corrected is usually the answer.

When to Stop Guessing and Bring It In

Some symptoms point clearly toward a deeper problem. A strong fuel smell, black smoke, sooty spark plugs, rough running alongside the mileage drop, or a dashboard warning light if your machine has one all justify a professional diagnosis. The same is true if you have worked through the basic checks — tire pressures, brakes, belt, air filter, plugs — and consumption has not improved. Describe when the change started, how you measured it, and any symptoms that came with it; that helps a technician narrow the search instead of starting from scratch.

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Shop Spark Plugs for a 2010 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE5 Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.