How to Change Brake Pads on a 1997 Yamaha RT100
Shop parts for a 1997 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.Quick brake system overview
The 1997 Yamaha RT100, like most modern dirt bikes, uses a hydraulic disc brake setup on the front and often a smaller disc or drum on the rear depending on the specific variant. For the disc-equipped system you’ll see a brake lever or pedal, master cylinder, hydraulic brake line, a caliper that houses the brake pads, and a steel rotor. When you pull the brake lever or press the pedal the master cylinder builds hydraulic pressure that pushes the caliper pistons, which force the brake pads against the rotor to slow the bike.
When to replace brake pads – common symptoms
- Reduced braking power or longer stopping distances.
- Squealing or a grinding noise when braking.
- Excessive lever or pedal travel before the brakes bite.
- Visible pad material worn thin – pad backing plate showing or less than ~2-3 mm of friction material.
- Blueing or heat discoloration on the rotor surface after hard use.
Inspect pads regularly, especially after muddy rides, long motocross sessions, or heavy downhill trail runs where heat and debris accelerate wear.
Tools & basic supplies
- Socket set or wrenches for axle and caliper fasteners
- Pliers for retaining clips or cotter pins
- Flat screwdriver or pry tool
- Brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and clean rags
- Soft mallet (optional)
- New brake pads sized for a 1997 Yamaha RT100
- Shop stand or solid jack to support the bike
Step-by-step – changing the brake pads
These instructions focus on a typical front hydraulic disc caliper as found on the 1997 Yamaha RT100. Orders vary slightly by caliper design; adjust where needed.
- Prepare the workspace & bike: Park on a level surface, collect tools, and clean the area around the caliper and rotor so dirt won’t contaminate new pads.
- Support the bike: Use a center stand, service stand, or secure jack so the front wheel can turn freely or be removed. Do not rely on the kickstand when working on brakes.
- Remove the wheel if needed: On some RT100 calipers you can change pads with the wheel on; others are easier with the wheel out. If removing the wheel, loosen axle nuts, slide out the axle, and set the wheel aside.
- Remove retaining hardware: Locate the pad retaining pin(s) or clip on the caliper. Use pliers or a screwdriver to remove the clip and slide the pin out. Keep small parts organized.
- Extract the old pads: Pry the pads out of the caliper carefully. Note the orientation of any shims or anti-rattle plates so you can reinstall them the same way.
- Inspect rotor & caliper: Look for deep grooves, heavy scoring, or heat discoloration on the rotor. Check the caliper bore for corrosion or embedded debris. Clean the rotor surface and caliper bracket with brake cleaner and a lint-free rag.
- Compress the caliper piston(s): With the pads removed, press the piston(s) back into the caliper slowly using a piston spreader, a large flat screwdriver with a wooden block, or by hand if possible. Compress until there is enough space for the new pads. Be careful not to damage the piston dust seals.
- Fit new pads: Install any shims or hardware onto the new pads as oriented before. Slide the new pads into the caliper so the friction faces the rotor. Make sure any wear indicators or backing plates sit correctly in the caliper grooves.
- Reinstall retaining pin & clip: Reinsert the pad retaining pin and secure it with the clip. Confirm the pad assembly is snug and the pins are secure.
- Reinstall wheel (if removed): Position the wheel, align the axle, torque axle and pinch bolts to a firm setting, and check rotor alignment inside the caliper.
- Restore hydraulic pressure: With the bike still supported, slowly pump the brake lever or pedal several times until it feels firm and the pads make initial contact with the rotor. This moves fluid and seats the pads mechanically prior to riding.
- Final check: Spin the wheel to ensure there’s no excessive rubbing. Check for leaks around the caliper or brake line and confirm the retaining pin remains tight.
Helpful inspection tips while you’re in there
- Rotor thickness & surface – minor scoring is normal; deep grooves or warping means consider rotor replacement.
- Check for fluid leaks around the caliper seals or brake hose fittings.
- Ensure the caliper slides freely on its guide pins or mounting points so both pads contact the rotor evenly.
- Clean out mud, sand, and grit from the caliper bracket and around the rotor; debris accelerates pad wear.
- Confirm retaining pins & clips show no excessive wear and are fully seated to prevent pad movement.
Bedding in new pads
Bedding is a short, controlled process to transfer a thin layer of friction material onto the rotor for consistent braking. From low speed, perform 8-12 progressive stops from about 15-20 mph down to walking speed with moderate braking pressure. Avoid hard stops at first and allow the brakes to cool between aggressive runs. This helps avoid glazing and improves initial pedal feel.
Notes about the 1997 Yamaha RT100 braking setup
The 1997 Yamaha RT100 is a small-displacement trail/youth dirt bike where braking demands are lower than larger enduro or motocross machines, but clean, responsive brakes remain critical for control. Most modern dirt bikes including the RT100 use hydraulic disc brakes where calipers squeeze pads against a steel rotor. If your RT100 has an older single-piston caliper or a smaller rotor typical of youth bikes, the basic pad-change steps are the same though piston size and pad dimensions differ. If you own an RT100 with a unique caliper design, vary the disassembly order slightly while following the same core checks.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Pads for a 1997 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Rotors for a 1997 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Lines for a 1997 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 1997 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Tools for a 1997 Yamaha RT100 Dirt Bike.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
