How to Change Brake Pads on a 1978 Yamaha IT250
Shop parts for a 1978 Yamaha IT250 Dirt Bike.Brake system overview
On the 1978 Yamaha IT250, as with most modern dirt bikes including the IT250 lineage used in trail and enduro riding, braking relies on a simple hydraulic disc system: the brake lever or pedal actuates a master cylinder, hydraulic fluid travels through a line to the caliper, and the caliper squeezes brake pads against a steel rotor to slow the bike. Key components you will interact with are the lever or pedal, master cylinder, brake hose, caliper, pads, retaining pin/clip, and the rotor.
When to replace brake pads & why it matters
- Reduced braking power or longer stopping distances.
- Squealing, chattering or a grinding noise from the rotor area.
- Excessive lever or pedal travel before bite.
- Visible pad friction material down to about 1-2 mm or backing plate showing.
- Heat discoloration or scoring on the rotor surface.
Good brakes are critical for safety and control on the IT250, whether you're ripping singletrack, descending a steep trail, or navigating tight technical sections. Inspect pads after muddy rides or extended hard sessions and replace them promptly when symptoms appear.
Tools & prep
- Common tools: set of metric sockets/wrenches, pliers, flat screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, clean rags, and a small C-clamp or piston spreader.
- New brake pads sized for 1978 Yamaha IT250.
- Brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a small brush or rag.
- Sturdy motorcycle stand or center stand and a container to catch any light drips.
Work in a clean, well-lit area. Keep brake fluid away from painted surfaces and avoid contaminating pad faces with grease or oil.
Step-by-step – changing the brake pads
- Secure the bike: Put the IT250 on a stand so the wheel is off the ground and stable. Chock the bike to prevent tipping.
- Decide whether to remove the wheel: On many IT250 caliper setups you can access the pads with the wheel in place; if access is tight or you prefer better workspace, remove the axle and wheel first. Follow basic axle torque and alignment practices when reinstalling.
- Clean the caliper area: Use compressed air or brush off heavy mud. Spray brake cleaner and wipe away grit so you don't push debris into the caliper.
- Remove the pad retaining hardware: Locate the pad pin or clip. Use pliers or a screwdriver to remove the clip, then push out the pin carefully. Keep small parts together so they don't get lost.
- Slide the old pads out: Pull the pads straight out of the caliper carrier. Note how any shims or springs sit so you reinstall them the same way.
- Inspect caliper & rotor: Look for scoring, glazing, or deep grooves on the rotor and check for leaks, corrosion, or stuck slide pins on the caliper.
- Retract the piston(s): Before new pads go in you must push the caliper piston(s) back into the bore to make room. Use a clean rag over the piston and a C-clamp or a piston spreader. Compress slowly and evenly until flush; stop if fluid overflows the master cylinder reservoir and cap the reservoir if needed.
- Install new pads: Place any anti-rattle shims or springs into position, slide the new pad faces into the caliper, and ensure they seat cleanly against the piston and carrier.
- Reinstall retaining pin/clip: Insert the pin and secure the retaining clip or cotter. Wiggle the pads slightly to confirm they're locked in and not binding.
- Reinstall wheel if removed: Refit the wheel, align the axle, torque axle hardware to a firm fit, and spin the wheel to ensure free rotation without rubbing.
- Restore hydraulic pressure: With the bike on the ground, gently pump the lever or press the pedal several times until firm. This seats the pads against the rotor and restores normal travel.
- Final checks: Confirm there are no leaks, no strange noises with the wheel spinning, and that the brake engages solidly. Re-torque any fasteners checked during the job.
Helpful inspection tips
- Rotor thickness & runout: look for thin rotors or heavy scoring. Light surface rust can be cleaned but deep grooves may need rotor replacement.
- Brake fluid check: inspect around the master cylinder and caliper for dampness that would indicate a leak.
- Caliper movement: confirm slide pins or float bolts allow the caliper to move freely so both pads contact the rotor evenly.
- Clean mounting areas: remove mud and grit from the caliper bracket and pad channels so pads slide freely.
- Retaining hardware: make sure pins, clips, and springs are not bent or worn; replace them if loose.
Bedding in new pads
Bedding allows the pad surface to mate with the rotor. Perform 8-12 controlled stops from moderate speed to walking pace, avoiding full emergency stops during the first runs. Allow pads and rotor to cool between repeated hard stops. After bedding, expect improved initial bite and consistent braking feel.
Notes on the 1978 Yamaha IT250 braking setup
The IT250 is a 250cc trail/enduro bike where brake modulation matters for traction and control. While modern dirt bikes often feature larger rotors and multi-piston calipers on later generations, the 1978 IT250's hydraulic disc components are straightforward and built for field serviceability. If you notice unusually small rotors or a different caliper shape compared to newer motocross machines, follow the same practical pad-change steps shown here but allow slightly more attention to piston retraction and wheel alignment.
Wrap-up
Changing the brake pads on a 1978 Yamaha IT250 is a practical, garage-level job with basic tools. Regular inspection and timely replacement restore braking performance and keep your trail or enduro rides safe and predictable. After installation and bedding, double-check fasteners and lever/pedal feel before hitting the trail.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Pads for a 1978 Yamaha IT250 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Rotors for a 1978 Yamaha IT250 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Lines for a 1978 Yamaha IT250 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 1978 Yamaha IT250 Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Tools for a 1978 Yamaha IT250 Dirt Bike.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
