How to Change Brake Pads on a 1977 Yamaha IT250

Shop parts for a 1977 Yamaha IT250 Dirt Bike.

The 1977 Yamaha IT250 is a 250cc trail/enduro bike that sees a lot of varied terrain, and dependable braking is critical for control and safety. This guide walks a confident, garage-level rider through when to replace pads and how to change them using common tools. Most modern dirt bikes – and the braking systems used on many IT250s in the enduro/trail category – employ hydraulic disc brakes where a caliper squeezes pads against a steel rotor to slow the bike. Follow these steps and inspection tips to keep your IT250 stopping strong.

Quick Brake System Overview

  • Brake lever or pedal – applies force to the master cylinder.
  • Master cylinder & hydraulic line – converts lever force to hydraulic pressure.
  • Brake caliper – houses pistons that push pads toward the rotor.
  • Brake pads & backing plates – friction material that contacts the rotor.
  • Brake rotor (disc) – steel surface the pads clamp to slow the wheel.

Hydraulic pressure forces the caliper piston(s) outward, sandwiching pads against the rotor. You will be working at the caliper and pads for a pad change.

When to Replace Brake Pads on Your IT250

Inspect pads regularly, especially after muddy rides or intense enduro sessions. Replace pads when you notice any of the following:

  • Reduced braking power or longer stopping distances
  • Squealing, squeaking, or grinding noises under braking
  • Excessive brake lever or pedal travel before bite
  • Pad material visibly worn thin – backing plate should not be exposed
  • Heat discoloration, grooving, or scoring on the rotor surface

Tools & Prep

  • Basic hand tools: metric sockets or wrenches, pliers, screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers or snap-ring plier for retaining clips
  • Thin pry tool or flat screwdriver to ease pads free
  • Clean rags and brake parts cleaner (non-residue)
  • Shop stand or centerstand to elevate the bike
  • New brake pads matched to 1977 Yamaha IT250

Work on a flat surface with the bike secure. Have a small container to hold pins and clips so nothing gets lost.

Step-by-Step: Changing the Brake Pads

  1. Secure & prepare: Place the IT250 on a stable stand so the wheel can rotate freely. Wheels are often removed on older caliper setups; check your caliper design to decide if wheel removal is necessary.
  2. Access the caliper: If necessary remove the wheel axle following the order on your axle hardware. If the caliper clears the rotor with the wheel in place, skip wheel removal. Clean around the caliper to remove dirt and mud.
  3. Remove retaining hardware: Locate the brake pad retaining pin(s) or clip(s). Use pliers or a screwdriver to remove the retaining clip, then slide out the pin. Keep track of any spring or shim pieces.
  4. Extract old pads: Pull the pads out of the caliper body. If they stick, gently pry them free with a flat screwdriver, being careful not to damage piston seals.
  5. Inspect rotor & caliper: Check the rotor for scoring, warping, or excessive wear. Look for brake fluid leakage around the caliper or hose fittings. Clean caliper bores and pad slots with brake cleaner and a rag.
  6. Compress the piston(s): Use a flat block or a clean, wide screwdriver to gently push the caliper piston(s) back into the bore until flush. Do this slowly to avoid tearing seals and to prevent brake fluid overflow at the master cylinder. Have a rag ready for any small fluid creep.
  7. Fit new pads: Place any supplied shims or springs into the caliper, then slide the new pads into position facing the rotor. Ensure they seat evenly and the friction material faces the rotor.
  8. Reinstall retaining pin & clip: Reinsert the retaining pin and reinstall the clip or cotter pin. Confirm the hardware is secure and that pads have slight free movement in their slots.
  9. Reinstall wheel (if removed) & torque axle: Refit the axle, spacers, and torque to the correct tightness for your hardware. Ensure wheel spins freely without rubbing.
  10. Restore hydraulic pressure: Pump the brake lever or pedal several times until a firm bite returns. This seats the pads against the rotor. Check brake fluid level after compressing pistons and top off if needed.
  11. Final checks: Confirm there are no leaks, the lever/pedal remains firm, and retaining hardware is secure. Spin the wheel to make sure the rotor clears the pads without binding.

Helpful Inspection Tips While You Work

  • Measure rotor thickness – thin or deeply grooved rotors may need replacement rather than pad-only service.
  • Look for wetness or brake fluid stains near the master cylinder, hose, or caliper bellows.
  • Ensure caliper slides or guide pins move freely; clean and lightly lubricate sliders if applicable.
  • Remove any packed mud or debris from the caliper bracket and around the rotor.
  • Confirm retaining pin, clip, and pad springs are installed exactly as supplied with the new pads.

Bedding In New Pads

Bedding new pads properly improves initial performance and longevity. Ride at moderate speed and perform a series of controlled stops – about 6 to 10 stops from a speed where you can feel consistent deceleration, allowing brakes to cool briefly between sets. Avoid maximum-stress stops for the first ride and check hardware after the bed-in routine.

Routine pad checks and occasional cleaning after muddy or sandy rides will keep your 1977 Yamaha IT250 braking where it needs to be. With common tools and a bit of patience you can complete this service in a typical home garage and restore confident stopping power for the trails.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.