How to Change Brake Pads on a 2013 KTM Freeride 350

Shop parts for a 2013 KTM Freeride 350 Dirt Bike.

Quick overview & why it matters

The 2013 KTM Freeride 350 is a lightweight trail/enduro-style dirt bike that relies on hydraulic disc brakes to deliver predictable stopping power. Like most modern dirt bikes, the Freeride uses a master cylinder at the lever or pedal, hydraulic lines, a caliper that squeezes pads against a steel rotor, and replaceable friction pads. Keeping pads in good condition preserves braking performance, rider control, and confidence on technical trails and steep descents.

Signs your 2013 KTM Freeride 350 needs new pads

  • Reduced braking power or longer stopping distances.
  • Squealing, chirping, or grinding noises under braking.
  • Excessive lever or pedal travel before engagement.
  • Visible pad material worn thin – less than 1.5-2mm of friction material is a common replacement cue.
  • Heat discoloration, scoring, or blueing on the rotor surface after heavy use.

Check pads after muddy rides, long enduro loops, or any hard braking sessions. Regular visual checks let you replace pads before braking performance is compromised.

Tools and supplies you'll need

  • Socket set or open-end wrenches for axle and caliper bolts
  • Pliers and a flat screwdriver
  • New brake pads specific to the 2013 KTM Freeride 350
  • Clean shop rags and isopropyl alcohol for rotor cleaning
  • A small C-clamp or piston tool to compress caliper pistons
  • Torque wrench (recommended) and thread locker if desired
  • Bike stand or paddock stand to support the bike safely

Step-by-step – change the brake pads

The Freeride 350 typically uses a front disc with a caliper mounted to a fork or bracket and a rear caliper attached near the swingarm. Order of steps below can be adjusted by experienced riders depending on caliper access.

  1. Prepare the workspace: Park the bike on level ground, choke the front wheel off the ground on a stand, and remove loose dirt from the caliper area. Gather tools and new pads.
  2. Lift and support the bike: Use a stand under the frame/subframe so the wheel can spin freely. For rear pads it's often easiest with the bike upright; front pads are easier with the front lifted enough to allow wheel removal if needed.
  3. Remove the wheel if necessary: If caliper access is tight, loosen axle hardware and remove the wheel. On some Freeride caliper designs you can change pads without removing the wheel – judge based on clearance.
  4. Locate and remove the pad retaining hardware: Most dirt bike calipers use a retaining pin and clip or a bolt. Use pliers to remove the clip, then slide or pull the pin/bolt out. Keep hardware organized for reassembly.
  5. Slide old pads out: Pull the pads and any backing plate out of the caliper. Note pad orientation and any shims or springs so you install the new pads exactly the same way.
  6. Inspect rotor & caliper: Look for scoring, warping, or heavy rust on the rotor. Check caliper bores and the piston face for contamination or pitting. Remove sand, grit, and compacted mud from the caliper bracket.
  7. Compress the caliper piston(s): Open the brake reservoir cap slightly if space allows to prevent fluid backflow issues, then use a C-clamp or piston spreader to gently push the piston(s) back into the caliper body until there is room for the new thicker pads. Compress slowly to avoid spurting fluid up the line; do not fully remove the reservoir cap.
  8. Install new pads: Place replacement pads into the caliper in the same orientation as the originals, including any shims or wear indicators. Slide the retaining pin back through and secure with the clip or bolt. Ensure the pads are seated and the pin is fully engaged.
  9. Reinstall the wheel (if removed): Refit the wheel and torque axle hardware to a sensible factory-range spec (consult your tools/feel) and ensure the rotor sits centered between pad faces. Spin the wheel to make sure it rotates freely without rubbing.
  10. Restore hydraulic pressure: With the bike still supported, gently pump the brake lever or pedal several times until you feel firm pressure and the pads contact the rotor. This moves the pads into normal position and evacuates minimal air gaps.
  11. Final checks: Tighten all fasteners, verify the retaining clip is secure, and check brake lever/pedal feel. Clean any oil or grease off rotors with isopropyl alcohol before you ride.

Helpful inspection tips while you're in there

  • Measure rotor thickness – unusually thin or heavily grooved rotors should be replaced even if pads are new.
  • Look for brake fluid leaks at the caliper seals or hose connections; any weep likely needs seal service.
  • Ensure the caliper slide pins move freely & are clean so pads retract evenly; clean and lightly lube slide surfaces if applicable.
  • Check that retaining pins and clips show no excessive wear or elongation.
  • Remove embedded stones or grit from pad carriers and caliper pockets to prevent scoring the rotor.

Bedding in new pads

New pads require a short bedding process to mate properly with the rotor. Perform 8-12 controlled stops from moderate speed – accelerate to about 15-20 mph and apply progressive braking down to walking speed without locking the wheel. Avoid heavy stops from high speeds on the first few brakes. This transfers an even layer of pad material to the rotor and stabilizes braking performance.

Notes on the 2013 KTM Freeride 350 braking setup

The 2013 Freeride 350 is designed for trail and technical riding where modulation and light weight matter more than raw stopping force. Most modern dirt bikes in this category use hydraulic disc brakes with single- or dual-piston calipers; if your Freeride has seen aftermarket changes over the years — swapped rotors or different calipers — pad selection and clearances may vary. If you notice excessive lever travel after pad replacement, a brief brake bleeding session may be beneficial, but most pad swaps restore normal feel after pumping the lever and bedding the pads.

Wrap-up

Changing the brake pads on a 2013 KTM Freeride 350 is a straightforward maintenance job that riders with basic tools can complete in under an hour per wheel. Regular inspection, prompt replacement of worn pads, and proper bedding keep braking predictable and extend the life of rotors and calipers so your Freeride stays confident on steep, technical trails.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Brake Pads for a 2013 KTM Freeride 350 Dirt Bike.

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Shop Brake Lines for a 2013 KTM Freeride 350 Dirt Bike.

Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2013 KTM Freeride 350 Dirt Bike.

Shop Brake Tools for a 2013 KTM Freeride 350 Dirt Bike.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.