How To Bleed 2017 Kawasaki EX650 - Ninja 650 ABS Motorcycle Brakes

Bleeding the Brakes on a 2017 Kawasaki Ninja 650 ABS

What You Are Working With

The 2017 Kawasaki EX650 — sold as the Ninja 650 ABS — runs hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and both circuits are monitored by an anti-lock braking system. That gives you two separate hydraulic systems to service: the front, driven by the lever on the right handlebar, and the rear, driven by the pedal on the right side. Each has its own master cylinder, its own reservoir, and its own bleeder at the caliper. Bleeding one does nothing for the other, so plan on treating them as two distinct jobs performed back to back.

The ABS part deserves a moment of thought. For ordinary fluid refreshment — the usual reason to bleed — fluid travels from the reservoir, through the lines, into the caliper, and out the bleeder, and the ABS modulator stays out of the path. But if the reservoir has ever run dry, or a line or the ABS unit itself has been removed, air can sit trapped inside the modulator where a hand bleed will never reach it. That situation calls for a dealer-level procedure. Keep it in mind as you work, and stop if anything suggests air found its way into the unit.

How to Tell the Job Is Due

Most riders bleed because the lever or pedal has changed character. A front lever that feels spongy, pulls closer to the grip than it used to, or slowly sinks while held under steady pressure is telling you air is in the system. The rear pedal can go soft in the same way. Dark, cloudy, or gritty-looking fluid in the reservoir is another clear signal, and so is any recent work that opened the hydraulics — new lines, a caliper rebuild, or master cylinder service.

Even with no symptoms at all, brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time. That moisture lowers the fluid's boiling point, and under hard or repeated braking it can turn to vapor in the caliper, which is exactly the spongy, fading feel you are trying to avoid. Many riders simply refresh the fluid on a regular interval as preventive maintenance rather than waiting for a problem to announce itself.

Tools and Supplies to Gather

• Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container — once a container is opened, it starts absorbing moisture, so use new stock
• A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
• A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder nipple
• A small catch bottle for the old fluid
• Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir
• The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws
• Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, both of which make a solo job much less fiddly

Setting Up Before You Open Anything

Get the bike secure and upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are leaning on the lever. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars until the reservoir on the bar sits level — a tilted reservoir will spill the moment the cap comes off. Drape rags over the painted bodywork, the plastics, the instrument cluster, and anything else below the reservoir, because brake fluid attacks paint and plastic on contact. If a drop does land somewhere it should not, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than waiting until the end of the job.

The Bleeding Procedure

1. Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, then use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave a little at the bottom — do not let the reservoir run dry, or you will pull air straight into the master cylinder.
2. Top the reservoir up with fresh fluid from the sealed container.
3. Push the clear tubing onto the bleeder valve and route the other end into the catch bottle, making sure the tube stays submerged or at least points downhill the whole time.
4. Squeeze the lever and hold it firmly against the grip. For the rear circuit, press and hold the pedal instead.
5. With the lever or pedal held, open the bleeder about a quarter turn with the box-end wrench. Fluid and air will push out through the tube.
6. Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing first will suck air back in through the bleeder.
7. Repeat the squeeze, hold, open, close, release cycle, checking the reservoir level every few strokes and topping it off as needed. Keep going until the fluid coming through the tube is clean, fresh, and free of bubbles.
8. If your bike carries two front calipers, bleed each one in turn rather than trying to do both at once. As a general practice, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest.
9. Move to the other circuit and repeat the entire process with its own reservoir, lever or pedal, and bleeder.

Finishing the Job

Once clean fluid is flowing with no bubbles, close the bleeder snugly. Snug is the goal — do not lean on it, because overtightening can damage the seat and create a leak. Fill the reservoir to the level marking on the body, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down every surface you touched. Then inspect the bleeder and the banjo fittings at the caliper and master cylinder for weeping or dampness. A dry paper towel pressed against each joint will show you a leak that a visual check might miss.

Testing Before You Ride

With everything buttoned up, pull the lever and press the pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should creep or sink while you hold steady pressure on it. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging against the rotor. Then, in a safe open area, test the brakes at low speed before riding normally — a short, gentle stop tells you far more than a parking-lot squeeze ever will.

When to Stop and Take It to a Shop

If the lever will not firm up after several honest bleeding attempts, if it only firms after repeated pumping, or if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you work at it, something else is going on — a worn master cylinder seal, a pinhole in a line, or air trapped somewhere a hand bleed cannot reach. Fluid weeping from the master cylinder or caliper is another stop sign. And on this ABS-equipped Ninja 650, any suspicion that air entered the ABS unit itself means the bike should go to a shop with the proper diagnostic equipment. There is no shame in handing off a brake job; there is real risk in riding a system you are not sure about.

Related Shopping Categories

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.