Bleeding the Brakes on a 2020 Triumph Speed Triple S
Shop parts for a 2020 Triumph Speed Triple S Motorcycle.
Know the Layout Before You Touch Anything
The 2020 Speed Triple S uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, and ABS is part of the package. That gives you two independent hydraulic circuits to service: one fed by the master cylinder at the lever, and one fed by the master cylinder at the pedal. Each has its own reservoir, its own cap, and its own bleeder hardware down at the caliper. Because the bike is ABS-equipped, the hydraulic modulator sits between the master cylinders and the calipers, which matters for one specific reason covered near the end of this article.
Up front, the Speed Triple S carries a pair of calipers on twin discs. If your particular bike is set up that way — and the S is — you will bleed each front caliper separately rather than treating the front as a single unit. The rear is a single caliper on a single disc. Neither circuit is linked to the other, so the lever only works the front and the pedal only works the rear. That keeps the procedure straightforward: two circuits, worked one at a time.
Why and When a Bleed Is Due
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air over time. That absorbed water does two harmful things: it lowers the fluid's boiling point, so hard repeated braking can boil the fluid and give you a soft, fading lever, and it darkens the fluid as it degrades. Even a bike that stops fine can be running on tired fluid.
Bleed the system when the lever or pedal feels spongy, when the lever creeps closer to the grip than it used to, when the fluid in the reservoir looks dark or cloudy, or after any work that opened the hydraulics — new lines, caliper service, master cylinder work, or a reservoir that ran dry. Many riders also refresh the fluid on a mileage or seasonal schedule as preventive maintenance, which is cheap insurance on a safety-critical system.
Tools and Supplies to Have Ready
- Fresh brake fluid of the type printed on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container. Do not substitute a different type.
- A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly — a box-end grips the hex far better than an open-end and is much less likely to round it off.
- A length of clear tubing that pushes firmly over the bleeder nipple, long enough to reach your catch bottle.
- A clear catch bottle, ideally with a little fluid already in the bottom so the tube stays submerged.
- Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for pulling old fluid out of the reservoir.
- The correct driver for the reservoir cap screws.
- Optional but genuinely helpful for solo work: a one-way check-valve bleeder or a vacuum bleeder.
Set Up the Bike and Protect the Finish
Get the bike secure and upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are leaning on the lever. For the front circuit, turn the handlebars until the reservoir sits level — an angled reservoir will spill fluid the moment the cap comes off. Wipe the cap and surrounding area clean before opening anything, so grit does not drop into the system.
Brake fluid attacks paint and many plastics on contact. Drape rags over the tank or bodywork, the instrument cluster, and the front plastics before you start. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water rather than letting it sit.
The Bleeding Procedure, Step by Step
- With the reservoir level and clean, remove the cap and diaphragm and set them somewhere clean and dry.
- Use the syringe or baster to draw most of the old fluid out of the reservoir. Leave a small amount in the bottom — never let the reservoir run dry, or you will pull air straight into the system.
- Refill with fresh fluid from the sealed container, up to the level marking on the reservoir.
- Fit the box-end wrench over the bleeder valve, then push the clear tubing onto the nipple and route the other end into the catch bottle.
- Squeeze the front lever slowly and hold it in. On the rear, press and hold the pedal instead.
- Open the bleeder about a quarter turn. Fluid and any trapped air will push out through the tube. Watch the tube, not your hands.
- Close the bleeder before you release the lever or pedal. Releasing with the bleeder open draws air back in through the nipple.
- Release the lever or pedal slowly and let it return fully. Repeat the squeeze–hold–open–close–release cycle, topping the reservoir off between cycles so it never drops low.
- Keep going until the fluid coming through the tube is clean, fresh-looking, and free of bubbles. Old fluid is usually noticeably darker than what you are adding, which makes the change easy to spot.
- If your bike has two front calipers, bleed each one in turn, working the caliper farthest from the master cylinder first and the closer one second. Top off the reservoir before moving to the second caliper.
- Move to the rear circuit and repeat the same sequence with the pedal, using the rear reservoir and rear bleeder.
Finishing Up and Checking for Leaks
When the fluid runs clean at every bleeder, close each valve snugly with the box-end wrench. Snug is the goal — firm enough to seal, not so tight that you crush the seat or strip the hex. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe down any fluid residue around the bleeder and the banjo fittings at the master cylinder and caliper. Then look closely at those fittings for weeping or wetness; a bleeder left cracked open is the most common cause of a soft lever the next morning.
Test Before You Ride
Pull the lever and press the pedal. Both should feel firm and consistent, and neither should slowly sink while you hold steady pressure on it. Spin each wheel by hand to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Then, in a safe open area at low speed, apply the front and rear brakes gently and confirm they bite normally before you ride in traffic.
When to Hand It to a Shop
If the lever will not firm up after several full bleeding cycles, if it only firms up when you pump it, if bubbles keep appearing no matter how long you bleed, or if you find fluid weeping from the master cylinder or a caliper, stop and have the bike inspected. The same applies if the reservoir ever ran dry or if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected — air trapped inside the ABS modulator generally cannot be purged through the caliper bleeders alone and needs a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. There is no shame in that; a firm, reliable lever is worth more than a saved afternoon.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Fluid for a 2020 Triumph Speed Triple S Motorcycle.
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Shop Brake Pads for a 2020 Triumph Speed Triple S Motorcycle.
Shop Stands for a 2020 Triumph Speed Triple S Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2020 Triumph Speed Triple S Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
