Bleeding the Brakes on a 2015 MV Agusta Rivale 800

Shop parts for a 2015 MV Agusta Rivale 800 Motorcycle.

The 2015 MV Agusta Rivale 800 uses hydraulic disc brakes at both ends, so a complete bleed means servicing the front lever circuit and the rear pedal circuit. If your bike is ABS-equipped, routine fluid service is still performed at the caliper bleeders, but air trapped inside the ABS unit is a different matter and should be handled by a shop. The front and rear systems are separate hydraulic circuits, so each one gets its own bleed. If your Rivale has two front calipers, treat each caliper as its own bleed point and service them one at a time.

Know What You Are Bleeding

On the Rivale 800, the front brake is operated by the lever on the right handlebar and the rear brake by the pedal on the right side. Both are hydraulic, which means both use brake fluid and both can collect air or moisture over time. The front system may have more than one caliper bleeder, so do not assume that one quick squeeze at a single caliper services the whole front end. Work through every caliper bleeder on the front, then move to the rear caliper. If your bike has ABS, remember that a standard bleed through the calipers is generally used to refresh fluid, but it is not a substitute for an ABS-unit bleed if air has entered the modulator or if the system has been opened upstream of the calipers.

Why and When a Bleed Is Due

A spongy lever, a pedal that feels soft or travels farther than it used to, or a lever that pulls closer to the grip are classic signs that air is in the system. Dark, cloudy, or contaminated fluid in the reservoir is another reason to flush. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air over time, which lowers its boiling point and can cause fade under hard or repeated braking. That is why many riders refresh brake fluid on a regular schedule even when the brakes still feel normal. A bleed is also due after any work that opened the hydraulic system, such as new brake lines, caliper service, or master cylinder work.

Tools and Supplies to Have Ready

  • Fresh brake fluid of the type marked on the master cylinder reservoir cap, from a sealed container
  • A box-end wrench that fits the bleeder valve snugly
  • A length of clear tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder
  • A clean catch bottle for the old fluid
  • Rags or shop towels, plus a syringe or turkey baster for removing old fluid from the reservoir
  • A screwdriver or driver that fits the reservoir cap screws
  • Optional: a one-way check-valve bleeder or vacuum bleeder to make one-person bleeding easier

Use only fluid from a sealed container, and do not reuse fluid that has been sitting open. The reservoir cap marking is the authority for fluid type on this bike; do not substitute a different fluid based on guesswork.

Preparation Before Opening the System

Support the Rivale securely upright on a stand so it cannot tip while you are working the lever or pedal. Turn the handlebars so the front reservoir sits level before you remove the cap. Cover painted surfaces, plastic bodywork, and the instrument area with rags, because brake fluid damages paint and plastic on contact. If a spill happens, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area with water. Keep the reservoir cap and diaphragm clean and set them aside where they will not pick up grit.

The Bleeding Procedure, Front and Rear

  1. Open the front reservoir and use the syringe or turkey baster to remove most of the old fluid. Do not let the reservoir run dry.
  2. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid from the sealed container, leaving enough room for the diaphragm and cap later.
  3. Attach the clear tubing to the front caliper bleeder and route the other end into the catch bottle.
  4. Squeeze and hold the front lever firmly. Keep it held while you open the bleeder about a quarter turn.
  5. Watch fluid and air move through the clear tube, then close the bleeder before you release the lever. Never release the lever with the bleeder open, or air can be drawn back in.
  6. Repeat the squeeze-hold-open-close-release sequence until fresh, clean fluid comes through the tube with no bubbles. Check the reservoir often and top it off so it never runs low enough to draw air.
  7. If your bike has two front calipers, bleed the second caliper the same way. As a general rule, start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, then service the other.
  8. Move to the rear caliper. Attach the clear tube to the rear bleeder and route it into the catch bottle.
  9. Press and hold the rear pedal, open the bleeder about a quarter turn, let fluid and air out, then close the bleeder before releasing the pedal.
  10. Repeat until the rear fluid runs clean and bubble-free, topping off the rear reservoir as needed.
  11. Keep the reservoir from running dry throughout the entire job. If it does run dry, stop and expect to bleed more thoroughly, and have the ABS system checked if the bike is ABS-equipped.

Finishing the Job Correctly

When clean, bubble-free fluid is coming from every bleeder, tighten each bleeder snugly without overtightening. Fill the reservoir to the correct level marking, reinstall the diaphragm and cap, and wipe away any spilled fluid. Check for leaks at the bleeder valves and at the banjo fittings. A dry fitting after a few firm lever and pedal applications is a good sign; a wet fitting or a dropping fluid level means you need to stop and correct it before riding.

Test Before You Ride

The front lever and rear pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy, and they should not slowly sink while you hold steady pressure. Spin each wheel to confirm the brakes are not dragging. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before riding normally. If the lever or pedal changes feel after the test, or if either one needs pumping to come up, do not ride the bike until the problem is resolved.

When to Stop and Take It to a Shop

A lever that will not firm up after several bleeding attempts, a lever that firms only after pumping, persistent air bubbles, or fluid leaking from the master cylinder or caliper are reasons to stop. If the reservoir ran dry, if the ABS unit or its lines were disconnected, or if you suspect air inside an ABS modulator, the bike may need a dealer-level procedure or diagnostic tool. Do not guess at an ABS bleed sequence. Have the system serviced properly, then confirm a firm lever and pedal before riding.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.