Why Your 2020 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited SE6 Is Using More Fuel Than It Should

Shop parts for a 2020 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited SE6 Motorcycle.

Your 2020 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited SE6 is a three-wheeled tourer built around a liquid-cooled, fuel-injected 1330cc inline three-cylinder engine, a semi-automatic six-speed transmission, and a belt final drive. It is heavy, with a large frontal area, so it was never going to sip fuel the way a lightweight two-wheeler does. The useful question is not why it burns more than a small motorcycle — it is why it is suddenly burning noticeably more than it used to, or why you are stopping for fuel more often than your normal routine suggests.

Start by Confirming the Change Is Real

Before chasing a mechanical cause, make sure the numbers actually moved. Fill the tank to a consistent level, note the odometer reading or reset a trip meter, ride normally, then refill at the same pump to the same level and divide the distance ridden by the fuel you added. A single tank proves very little, because one windy day, one long highway run, or one tank of winter-blend fuel can skew the result. Track it across several fill-ups before you conclude anything.

It also pays to verify your odometer is telling the truth. The Spyder derives speed and distance electronically from wheel speed sensors, so a rear tire of a different size or profile than the original changes how far the vehicle believes it has traveled. If the odometer under-reports distance, your math will make consumption look worse than it really is. Belt drive means there are no sprockets to swap, but tire size is still worth checking.

Conditions, Load, and Riding Style

Many riders notice reduced range long before they ever calculate a number, and the most common explanations are not mechanical at all. Cold weather thickens lubricants and lengthens warm-up time. Winter-blend and ethanol-blended fuels carry slightly less energy, so the engine has to burn more of them for the same work. Headwinds and sustained highway speeds hit a Spyder harder than a narrow two-wheeler, because its frontal area and three-wheel stance create more drag.

Load matters just as much. A passenger, a full set of luggage, and a top case all add weight the engine must accelerate and hold at speed. Hard acceleration away from stops and long idling warm-ups in the driveway burn fuel without covering distance. The SE6 rewards smooth, early upshifts; holding gears longer in manual mode, or letting the engine spin high in stop-and-go traffic, will show up at the pump.

Tires, Brakes, and Rolling Resistance

Underinflated tires are the most common and easiest-to-fix cause of a fuel economy drop, and the Spyder gives you three tires to check instead of two. Check both front tires and the rear tire cold, with a reliable gauge rather than by eye. A tire that looks fine can still be several pounds low, and low pressure raises rolling resistance on every mile.

Dragging brakes come next. After a ride, carefully feel the temperature of each wheel hub; one that is noticeably hotter than the others suggests a caliper that is not fully releasing. On the Spyder, pay particular attention to the cable-operated parking brake, which acts on the rear wheel. If the cable is misadjusted or the mechanism is sticking, the rear brake can remain partially applied while you ride, costing fuel and generating heat. An overtightened drive belt adds similar drag, as can worn wheel bearings.

Air Intake and Ignition

A clogged or heavily soiled air filter restricts airflow, and the engine management system responds by delivering more fuel than the engine can efficiently burn. If you ride in dusty conditions or on gravel roads, the filter can load up faster than you expect. Replacing it is inexpensive and restores the airflow the engine was calibrated for.

Spark plugs matter too. The three-cylinder engine relies on clean, correctly gapped plugs to ignite the mixture completely. Plugs that are worn, fouled, or gapped incorrectly leave unburned fuel in the exhaust, which shows up as poor economy and sometimes as rough running. Your 2020 Spyder uses a fully electronic ignition, so there are no contact points to wear and no ignition timing to drift — that particular old-bike cause does not apply here.

Fuel Injection and Sensor Problems

The Spyder's fuel injection runs in closed loop, using an oxygen sensor in the exhaust to fine-tune the mixture. A contaminated or lazy oxygen sensor can bias the system rich, and the rider often notices nothing beyond the fuel consumption until a warning light appears. A coolant temperature sensor that reports a colder engine than reality has a similar effect, because the engine management system adds fuel for what it believes is a cold engine.

Injectors can be a factor as well. A dirty or partially leaking injector delivers an inconsistent spray, and a leaking one can bleed fuel into the cylinder when it should not. On a three-cylinder engine, throttle bodies that have drifted out of synchronization cause uneven running and wasted fuel. Stored fault codes may point directly at the problem, so having them read is worthwhile. Finally, check for actual leaks at fuel lines, fittings, and the tank area under the seat — a persistent fuel smell is a strong hint.

Engine Condition and Cooling

As an engine accumulates miles, compression can fall off through normal wear at the rings and valves. Lower compression means less of the energy in the fuel is converted into motion, so the rider compensates with more throttle for the same speed. A compression check is the way to confirm this, and it is a job best left to a shop with the right equipment.

Because the Spyder is liquid-cooled, the thermostat deserves a mention. A thermostat stuck open keeps the engine from reaching its full operating temperature, and a cold-running engine burns more fuel than a warm one. If your temperature gauge reads lower than it used to, or takes far longer to come up, that is worth investigating.

Modifications That Change the Tune

An aftermarket exhaust or a high-flow air filter installed without a matching calibration is a classic cause of rich running. The engine management system is calibrated for the original intake and exhaust, and changing one without adjusting the other can leave the mixture off. If you added either recently and the fuel economy dropped afterward, that timing is a strong clue. A tune or fuel controller matched to the hardware is the fix.

When to Hand It to a Mechanic

Some symptoms point clearly toward a deeper issue. A strong, persistent fuel smell, black smoke from the exhaust, spark plugs that come out sooty, a warning light on the dash, or rough running alongside the mileage drop all suggest something beyond tire pressure and riding habits. So does a consumption increase that survives the basic checks — tires, brakes, air filter, plugs, and a fresh tank of fuel from a different station.

When you bring the Spyder in, describe what you have observed rather than guessing at the cause: when the change started, whether it came on suddenly or gradually, whether the exhaust smells rich, whether the engine runs differently, and what maintenance you have already done. That kind of detail helps a technician narrow the search quickly, whether the answer turns out to be a sensor, an injector, a dragging brake, or simply a heavier right hand than you realized.

Related Shopping Categories

Shop Fuel System Parts for a 2020 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited SE6 Motorcycle.

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Shop Brake Parts for a 2020 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited SE6 Motorcycle.

Shop Spark Plugs for a 2020 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited SE6 Motorcycle.

Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.