Why Your 2015 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Is Using More Fuel Than It Used To
Shop parts for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Motorcycle.The 2015 Spyder RT-S SE6 is a liquid-cooled, fuel-injected 1,330cc inline-three four-stroke, and it puts power down through a belt final drive and a semi-automatic six-speed transmission. That configuration matters, because the reasons a modern fuel-injected engine starts using more fuel differ from the reasons an older carbureted machine does. There is no choke to stick, no float bowl to flood, and no jets to gum up. Instead, the causes cluster around sensors, airflow, rolling resistance, and how the machine is ridden. If you are stopping for fuel more often than you used to, work through the possibilities below in order.
Confirm the Change Is Real Before You Chase It
Before spending money, measure. Fill the tank, note the odometer or reset the trip meter, ride normally, then refill at the same pump and divide the miles ridden by the fuel it took to refill. A single tank proves nothing — wind, temperature, terrain, and how much of the tank you actually used all skew one sample. Track three or four consecutive fill-ups before drawing conclusions.
Odometer accuracy is the other half of the equation. The Spyder's speed and distance readings come from electronic wheel-speed sensors, so a rear tire that differs in size or aspect ratio from stock, or one that is significantly worn, changes the distance the computer believes you traveled. If the odometer reads high, your calculated economy will look worse than it really is.
Conditions and Riding Habits That Quietly Cost Fuel
Some of the largest swings in fuel use have nothing to do with the machine. Cold weather raises consumption, partly because the engine takes longer to reach operating temperature and partly because dense air demands more fuel. Winter-blend and ethanol-blended fuels also return fewer miles per gallon than summer gasoline. A steady headwind, a long stretch of sustained highway speed, or a passenger and a full load of luggage all ask more of the engine, and the RT-S has a large frontal area, so speed costs it more than it costs a naked bike.
Riding style matters just as much. Hard acceleration, holding a lower gear and letting the triple spin, and long idle warm-ups all burn fuel without covering distance. Short trips are the worst case, because the engine never settles into its efficient range. If your Spyder is equipped with an ECO mode, riding with it engaged softens throttle response and can make a difference over a tank.
Rolling Resistance: Tires, Brakes, and the Belt
Anything that makes the Spyder harder to push costs fuel. Tire pressure is the easiest thing to overlook and the most common culprit: three tires, all of which need to be at the correct pressure, and a soft rear tire in particular adds drag and heat. Check them cold, and check them often.
Brakes can drag without making noise. After a ride, carefully feel near each wheel for unusual heat; a caliper that is not fully releasing keeps the pads against the rotor and forces the engine to work against it. The belt final drive is worth checking too — a belt adjusted too tight adds constant drag.
Air Intake and Ignition
An engine needs the right mix of air and fuel, and a restricted intake pushes the mixture rich. A clogged or heavily soiled air filter is a classic cause of a gradual mileage decline, and it is inexpensive to rule out. Spark plugs matter as well: plugs that are worn, fouled, or gapped incorrectly can fail to ignite the mixture cleanly, so some of the fuel you paid for leaves through the exhaust unburned. Reading the plugs tells you a lot — dark, sooty deposits point toward a rich condition, while normal-looking plugs suggest the problem lies elsewhere. This engine uses electronic ignition, so there are no contact points to wear or drift out of adjustment.
Fuel Injection and Sensor Problems
On a fuel-injected machine like the RT-S, the engine control unit decides how much fuel to deliver based on what its sensors report. If the coolant temperature sensor tells the ECU the engine is colder than it actually is, the system keeps adding extra fuel for a warm-up condition that never ends, and consumption climbs. An oxygen sensor, if your Spyder is equipped with one, is what lets the system correct the mixture in closed loop; a lazy or failed sensor can leave the engine running rich.
Injectors can be part of the problem too. A dirty or leaking injector delivers more fuel than intended, or delivers it poorly, producing both rough running and higher consumption. Low fuel pressure or a failing pressure regulator distorts the mixture as well. If a dashboard warning light is on, have the stored fault codes read before replacing parts — they often point straight at the sensor at fault. And do not overlook a simple fuel leak at a fitting, a line, or the tank.
Engine Condition and Cooling System
General engine wear reduces efficiency. As compression drops from worn rings or poor valve sealing, the engine produces less power for the same amount of fuel, so you open the throttle further to hold speed. A compression check confirms it.
Because the RT-S is liquid-cooled, the thermostat deserves a mention. A thermostat stuck open keeps the engine from reaching full operating temperature, and a cold engine runs richer than a warm one. If the temperature gauge sits lower than it used to, that is worth investigating.
Modifications That Change Fueling
Aftermarket parts can change fueling without you realizing it. A freer-flowing exhaust or a high-flow air filter installed without matching calibration lets more air in, and the fuel injection system compensates by adding fuel, which can leave the engine running rich. Towing a trailer or carrying a lot of weight has a similar effect for a different reason: the engine simply has more work to do.
When It Is Time to See a Mechanic
Some symptoms point to something beyond routine maintenance. A strong, persistent fuel smell, black smoke from the exhaust, spark plugs that come out heavily sooted, rough running that appeared alongside the mileage drop, or a warning light on the dash all suggest the problem is deeper than tire pressure or riding style. The same is true if you have worked through the basic checks — tire pressures, air filter, plugs, and riding conditions — and fuel use has not improved. When you bring the Spyder in, describe what you have observed: when the change started, how many tanks you have tracked, whether the exhaust smells rich, and whether the engine runs any differently. That narrows the diagnosis quickly.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel System Parts for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Motorcycle.
Shop Air Filters for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Motorcycle.
Shop Tires for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Parts for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Motorcycle.
Shop Spark Plugs for a 2015 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
