Why Your 2013 MV Agusta Brutale 1090 Is Drinking More Fuel Than It Should
Shop parts for a 2013 MV Agusta Brutale 1090 Motorcycle.
The 2013 MV Agusta Brutale 1090 is a liquid-cooled, 1078cc inline-four with electronic fuel injection, a six-speed gearbox and chain final drive. There is no carburetor anywhere on it, and that matters, because the reasons a fuel-injected motorcycle starts drinking more fuel are not the same as the reasons a carbureted one does. If you are refueling more often than you used to, or your calculated mileage has slipped, the cause is usually one of a handful of things.
Confirm the Change Is Real Before Chasing It
Start by confirming the change is real. Fill the tank to a consistent level, reset the trip meter or note the odometer, ride normally, then refill and record how much fuel went in. Distance covered divided by fuel added gives you a figure you can compare tank to tank. A single tank proves very little, because temperature, wind, traffic and route all move the number around; track three or four consecutive fills before concluding anything.
Your odometer also deserves a check. A different rear tire profile, or gearing changed with different sprockets, alters the relationship between engine speed and road speed, and the speedometer and odometer can read optimistically afterward. That skews your calculated fuel economy, so any tire or sprocket change made around the time the mileage dropped deserves a second look.
Riding Conditions and Habits That Quietly Cost Fuel
Not every drop in fuel economy is mechanical. Cold weather thickens the air, lengthens warm-up time and often arrives alongside winter-blend or ethanol-blended fuel that carries less energy. Short trips are the worst case, because the engine spends most of the ride below full operating temperature, where the injection system is deliberately adding extra fuel.
Then consider load and technique. A passenger, loaded luggage, a headwind or sustained highway cruising all demand more throttle for the same distance. The 1090 is a rev-happy engine, and a rider who enjoys the upper half of the tachometer will always burn more than one who short-shifts. Long idling warm-ups cost fuel while covering no miles. If your commute or riding style changed recently, that may be the whole explanation.
Rolling Resistance: Tires, Brakes and the Drive Chain
Anything that makes the bike harder to push steals fuel. Tire pressure is the biggest and easiest offender — underinflated tires raise rolling resistance noticeably, and they lose pressure slowly enough that you rarely feel it. Check pressures cold and check them regularly, since a tire can look perfectly fine while sitting well below its correct setting.
A dragging brake caliper is another common cause. After an ordinary ride, compare front disc temperatures by feel or with an infrared thermometer; a dragging caliper typically leaves one side noticeably hotter, and the bike may feel slightly reluctant to roll. Finally, this bike drives through a chain, and a dry, rusty or over-tightened chain absorbs real power. Correct lubrication and proper slack make a measurable difference.
Intake and Ignition: Air In, Spark Down
An engine needs the right air-fuel mix, ignited at the right moment. A clogged or heavily soiled air filter restricts airflow, which upsets that balance and generally pushes the mixture rich. Filters are inexpensive, quick to inspect and quick to replace, so they belong near the top of your checklist.
Spark plugs matter just as much. Worn, fouled or incorrectly gapped plugs can leave part of the mixture unburned, so fuel you paid for exits through the exhaust. Reading the plugs tells you a great deal — heavy sooty deposits suggest a rich condition, while healthy plugs show light tan or grey. This bike uses fully electronic ignition, so there are no points to wear or adjust; here the ignition side of the equation comes down to plugs, coils and the sensors feeding the ECU.
Fuel Delivery: What to Check on the Injection System
Because the Brutale 1090 is fuel injected, forget chokes, float bowls and jets — none of that applies. The usual suspects here are sensors and injectors. The engine coolant temperature sensor tells the ECU how warm the engine is, and a sensor that reports a cold engine will keep the system adding enrichment fuel long after warm-up has finished. That alone can produce a sudden, unexplained drop in economy.
The oxygen sensor in the exhaust, if your bike is equipped with one, is what lets the ECU fine-tune the mixture during normal running; a lazy or contaminated sensor can push the fueling rich. Dirty or leaking injectors deliver more fuel than the ECU expects. On a multi-cylinder engine with individual throttle bodies, bodies that have drifted out of sync cause uneven running and wasted fuel. Stored fault codes, readable with the right diagnostic tool, can shortcut a lot of guesswork. And check for fuel leaks at lines, connectors and tank fittings — your nose often finds these first.
Engine Health and Operating Temperature
General engine wear reduces efficiency, and this bike is no exception. As compression drops, the engine produces less power from the same amount of fuel, so you open the throttle further to ride at the same pace. A compression test is the way to confirm whether that is happening.
Cooling matters too on this liquid-cooled machine. A thermostat stuck open prevents the engine from reaching full operating temperature, and a cold engine runs richer by design. If the temperature indication runs unusually low during normal riding, that is worth investigating.
Modifications That Throw Off Fueling
Aftermarket parts frequently upset the mixture. Fitting an exhaust or a free-flowing air filter increases airflow, and unless the fueling is recalibrated to match, the engine can end up running rich or lean across the range. Either way, economy suffers, and the bike may also feel rougher than it did before the parts went on.
When It Makes Sense to See a Mechanic
Most mileage complaints can be resolved with basic checks, but some signs point to something deeper. A strong fuel smell, black exhaust smoke, sooty spark plugs, rough running alongside the mileage drop, or a dashboard warning light — if your bike has one — all justify professional attention. The same is true if you have gone through tire pressures, brakes, chain, air filter, plugs and visible leaks and the drop persists. At that point a technician with diagnostic equipment can read fault codes and measure sensor outputs far faster than you can by substituting parts. Describe what changed and when; that history is the most useful thing you can bring.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel System Parts for a 2013 MV Agusta Brutale 1090 Motorcycle.
Shop Air Filters for a 2013 MV Agusta Brutale 1090 Motorcycle.
Shop Tires for a 2013 MV Agusta Brutale 1090 Motorcycle.
Shop Brake Parts for a 2013 MV Agusta Brutale 1090 Motorcycle.
Shop Spark Plugs for a 2013 MV Agusta Brutale 1090 Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
