What Type of Oil Does a 2017 Yamaha Kodiak 700 4x4 EPS IRS Take?
Shop parts for a 2017 Yamaha Kodiak 700 4x4 EPS IRS ATV.
Start With the Engine: Viscosity for a 686cc Single
The 2017 Kodiak 700 4x4 EPS IRS runs a liquid-cooled, fuel-injected 686cc four-stroke single, and engines in this displacement class almost universally call for a powersports-specific multigrade in the 10W-40 family. That is the number you will see most often in owner's manuals and on dealer counters for utility quads of this size, and it is a sound starting point for a machine ridden in moderate temperatures.
Where owners have some latitude is at the extremes. In cold-weather country, a 5W-40 or even 0W-40 flows more readily on a sub-freezing morning, which matters because thick, sluggish oil takes longer to reach the top end on a cold start. In sustained heat, deep mud, or heavy plowing duty, a 10W-50 or 20W-50 is sometimes listed as an option because it holds viscosity better as oil temperatures climb. Treat 10W-40 as the default and adjust from there based on the climate you actually ride in.
Fill quantity is the other half of the equation. Utility quads in this class typically take somewhere in the neighborhood of two to three quarts with a filter change, but the exact figure depends on whether the filter is replaced and how thoroughly the old oil drains. That is a number worth confirming rather than estimating, since overfilling can aerate the oil and underfilling is far worse.
Why the Ultramatic Transmission Shapes Your Oil Choice
The Kodiak 700 uses a belt-driven continuously variable transmission, but that does not mean the engine oil is isolated from the driveline. The belt itself runs dry inside its own housing, yet the Ultramatic system also uses a wet centrifugal clutch and a geared sub-transmission that share the engine's oil supply. That single detail drives the most important oil decision on this quad.
Because a wet clutch bathes in the same oil as the engine, the oil has to do two jobs at once: lubricate the top end and bearings, and allow the clutch shoes and plates to engage without slipping. Automotive oils formulated with friction modifiers for fuel economy can cause a wet clutch to grab inconsistently or chatter. That is why a JASO MA or MA2 rated oil is the right call here — those ratings exist specifically to certify compatibility with wet clutch engagement.
Yamaha also publishes its own branded formulation for this machine, and following that recommendation is a perfectly sound default, particularly if you would rather not think about it. The key point is not the name on the bottle. It is the JASO MA/MA2 certification paired with the correct viscosity grade.
Drivetrain Fluids Are a Separate Conversation
Engine oil is only one of several lubricants on a 4x4 Kodiak. The front differential and the rear gearcase each have their own fill and drain points, and neither is fed by the engine's oil supply.
- Rear gearcase: Typically a hypoid gear oil in the 80W-90 range, serviced on its own interval and often neglected because it lasts so long.
- Front differential: On a machine with an electronic 4WD engagement system, the front diff often calls for a specific friction-modified fluid rather than a generic gear oil. Using the wrong fluid there can affect how crisply the front wheels lock in.
- Sub-transmission: Shares engine oil on this design, so it is covered by the same fill you use for the crankcase.
These fluids matter just as much as engine oil to a machine that spends its weekends in water and mud, even though they are changed far less often.
Hard Work Is Harder on Oil Than Trail Riding
A Kodiak 700 that plows driveways, hauls firewood, or drags a trailer at low speed is working its oil much harder than one that cruises forest roads. Slow-speed heavy loads, long idle periods, and constant clutch engagement raise oil temperature and shear the viscosity modifiers down faster than steady cruising ever would.
Mud and water crossings add another variable. If water finds its way past a vent or a tired seal, the oil can turn milky, and that is a sign to change it immediately rather than wait for the next scheduled interval. Dust is the other quiet enemy — fine grit pulled through an intake or past a worn seal accelerates wear in a way no additive can offset. If your machine lives in those conditions, shortening the change interval is cheap insurance.
Synthetic or Conventional?
Both will work, and the choice comes down to how you use the machine. Synthetic oil generally holds up better under sustained heat, resists viscosity breakdown longer, and flows more easily on a cold morning, which makes it a natural fit for a hard-working utility quad or one that sees winter duty. Conventional oil costs less and remains perfectly adequate for a machine that gets light use in mild weather with regular changes. Semi-synthetic blends sit in the middle and are a common compromise for owners who want some of the benefits without the full price.
Confirming the Exact Spec for Your Machine
Everything above reflects what is typical and widely recommended for this class of utility ATV, and it will get you on the trail with confidence. For the precise viscosity, the exact fill quantity, and the specific drivetrain fluid types, take thirty seconds with your owner's manual or a quick call to your dealer. Getting those numbers right the first time saves you a second trip to the garage and keeps your Kodiak running the way it should for years of work and trail riding alike.
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.