What Type of Oil Does a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 Take?

What Type of Oil Does a 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 Take?

Start With the Engine Itself

The 2016 Can-Am Outlander L570 is built around a 570cc liquid-cooled, fuel-injected four-stroke single. That single fact drives most of the oil conversation. This is a modern, temperature-controlled powerplant with a shared sump, not an air-cooled workhorse from an earlier generation, and it was designed from the start around a powersports-specific four-stroke lubricant rather than whatever is on sale in the automotive aisle.

For this class of machine, the most commonly cited viscosity is a 5W-40 or 0W-40 four-stroke oil carrying a JASO MA or MA2 rating. A 10W-40 works fine in warm weather and is widely available, while 0W-40 or 5W-40 is the smarter pick if you're starting the quad in freezing temperatures. Can-Am also markets its own branded oil formulation for these engines, and following that recommendation is a sound default if you'd rather not think about it. The exact figure for your specific machine is printed in the owner's manual, and it's worth a quick look before you buy.

What the Viscosity Numbers Actually Mean

A multigrade oil like 5W-40 carries two pieces of information. The number before the W describes how the oil behaves when cold how easily it flows at startup, when most engine wear occurs. The number after the W describes its thickness at full operating temperature. A lower first number means easier cold cranking and faster oil pressure on a frosty morning; a higher second number means the film holds up better under sustained heat and load.

That's why the recommendation shifts with your climate. Cold-weather riders benefit from a 0W-40 or 5W-40. Riders in consistently hot regions, or anyone running long, slow, heavily loaded work in summer heat, may find a 20W-50 listed as an option for certain machines. Because the L570 is liquid-cooled, it holds a more stable operating temperature than an air-cooled engine, which narrows the practical range somewhat but the seasonal logic still applies.

How the CVT and Wet Clutch Shape Your Choice

The Outlander L570 uses a belt-driven continuously variable transmission, and the belt itself runs dry, outside the engine oil. That's a common point of confusion. The belt doesn't care what oil you pour in the engine, but the wet centrifugal clutch that engages at low speed does it lives in the same oil as the engine and the transmission gearing.

That shared-sump arrangement is exactly why a JASO MA or MA2 rated oil matters here. Those ratings certify that the oil's friction characteristics are compatible with a wet clutch, so it grips and releases predictably instead of slipping. Automotive oils marketed as "energy conserving" often contain friction modifiers that are great for fuel economy in a car and genuinely bad for a wet clutch in an ATV. Stick with a powersports-specific formulation and you avoid that problem entirely.

Drivetrain Fluids Are a Separate Conversation

Engine oil is only part of what this quad needs. The L570 is a selectable 4x4 machine with a front differential that uses an engagement system to lock the front wheels when traction drops, and that differential takes its own dedicated fluid not engine oil, and not a generic gear oil. Using the wrong lubricant there can interfere with how and when four-wheel drive engages, which is a real functional issue rather than a theoretical one.

Behind the engine, the rear gearcase or final drive uses its own lubricant as well, typically a hypoid gear oil in the 80W-90 range. These fluids are serviced on their own schedule, separate from engine oil changes, and they're easy to overlook. If you're doing a full fluid refresh on a used machine, plan on engine oil, front differential fluid, and rear gearcase oil as three distinct jobs with three distinct products.

Hard Work Is Hard on Oil

How you use the machine changes how the oil ages. Plowing snow, towing a trailer, hauling loads on a rack, crawling through mud, and long stretches of idling all put more stress on the lubricant than a casual trail ride. Heat cycles accumulate faster, and the oil's additive package depletes sooner.

Water and mud intrusion is the other factor worth watching. If you're regularly crossing water or riding deep mud, check the oil for a milky, frothy appearance that's a sign moisture has gotten in, and it means a change is due regardless of mileage. Cold-weather operation is another reason to favor the lower first number in a multigrade, since thick oil at startup is where a lot of wear happens.

Conventional or Synthetic?

Synthetic oils generally flow better when cold and resist thermal breakdown better when hot, which suits a machine that works hard in variable conditions. Conventional oil costs less and remains perfectly serviceable for many owners, particularly those who change it on a disciplined schedule and don't push the machine to its limits. A synthetic blend sits between the two and is a common choice for utility quads that see a mix of chores and trail use.

Whichever you choose, the rating matters more than the base stock. A conventional JASO MA2 oil in the right viscosity will serve this engine better than a synthetic automotive oil that isn't formulated for a wet clutch.

Confirming the Exact Spec for Your Machine

Everything above reflects the industry-typical guidance for a liquid-cooled 570-class utility quad with a CVT and a wet clutch, and it will get you to the right shelf at the parts counter. For the precise viscosity, the exact fill quantity, and the specific drivetrain fluid types, your owner's manual is the authoritative source it takes a minute to check and removes any doubt.

On change intervals, the general rule is that severe service shortens them. Dust, mud, heavy towing, and frequent cold starts all argue for more frequent changes than a light-use trail machine would need. Treat the manual's interval as a baseline and adjust downward if your riding looks more like work than recreation.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.