Winterizing a 1987 Yamaha FJ1200: What to Do Before the Season Ends
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Putting the 1987 Yamaha FJ1200 away for winter correctly is the preparation that makes the first spring ride easy rather than a repair session. As a carbureted, electric-start, air-cooled motorcycle, the FJ1200’s winterization covers fuel, oil, tires, storage environment, and the configuration-specific items below. Each step includes the reason it matters so the logic of the preparation is clear, not just the instruction.
Oil Change Timing and the Case for Doing It Before the FJ1200 Sits
The case for changing the oil on the FJ1200 before winter storage rather than waiting until spring is straightforward: used oil is acidic, and leaving it in contact with engine internals for months causes more slow damage than fresh oil would. Engine oil becomes acidic through normal operation as combustion gases bypass the piston rings and dissolve into the oil. These acids are neutralized by the oil’s alkaline additive package, but as the oil approaches its service life, the additives are depleted and acid levels rise.
Run the FJ1200 to full operating temperature before draining the oil for the pre-storage change. Warm oil carries contaminants in suspension and flows more completely from the drain plug than cold, settled oil. After filling with fresh oil and replacing the filter, start the engine and let it idle for two to three minutes to circulate oil through all passages before shutting the bike down for storage.
Treating Fuel and the Carburetor Before the FJ1200 Sits for Winter
Before the FJ1200 goes into winter storage, the carburetor fuel system needs specific attention that a fuel-injected bike does not require. The pilot jet inside the carburetor is a small brass fitting with a very small orifice that controls the fuel the engine needs to idle. It is precisely this small size that makes it vulnerable to varnish from degraded fuel—even a thin coating of varnish residue on the jet’s orifice can reduce fuel flow enough to prevent stable idling.
For riders who prefer not to leave any fuel in the carburetor over winter, draining the float bowl is a straightforward alternative to running stabilizer through the system. Close the petcock, locate the float bowl drain screw at the bowl’s lowest point, and open it until the bowl empties completely. Leave it open for a few minutes to allow any residual fuel to evaporate before closing it again.
Protecting the FJ1200’s Battery Through the Off-Season
The battery in the FJ1200 has a finite capacity to hold charge, and that capacity is permanently reduced if the battery is allowed to reach very low voltage and remain there for an extended period. A winter layoff without a battery maintainer connected is exactly the condition that causes this damage: the battery slowly discharges through self-discharge and parasitic draw until it reaches a voltage level where sulfation begins in the cells, and the depth and duration of the discharge determines how much capacity is permanently lost.
If the storage location doesn’t have convenient power access for a maintainer, the practical alternative is to remove the battery from the FJ1200 and store it in a conditioned space—a garage shelf or basement location where temperature doesn’t drop below freezing—with periodic charging throughout the winter.
Inflation, Positioning, and Flat-Spotting: Tire Storage Tips for the FJ1200
Tires on the FJ1200 are a storage consideration that is easy to overlook because they don’t require active maintenance the way oil or fuel systems do—but neglecting tire pressure and position over winter can turn a healthy tire into one that needs replacement by spring. Set both tire pressures to the correct storage pressure before the bike goes away, check them periodically, and use a paddock stand if one is available to lift the wheels off the ground and eliminate flat-spotting risk entirely.
Tire condition assessment before storage is also worthwhile on the FJ1200 so that any tire-related concerns are identified before the bike sits rather than discovered when planning the first spring ride. Sidewall cracking—visible as a network of fine surface cracks that appears especially on the sidewall between the tread and the rim flange—indicates age-related rubber hardening and is a reason to replace the tire before storage rather than ride on degraded rubber in spring.
Why the FJ1200 Should Be Clean Before It Goes Into Storage
A clean bike going into winter storage is a practical step for preserving the FJ1200’s finish condition, not just an aesthetic one. Brake dust, road grime, and insect residue left on painted surfaces over a winter layoff create conditions for surface etching and rust formation in the paint’s substrate. Brake dust contains iron particles that can embed in soft clear coat surfaces and oxidize into rust spots below the surface when moisture is present—which is exactly what happens on an uncleaned bike in a winter storage environment.
Apply a light protective coating to chrome and polished metal surfaces on the FJ1200 after washing and before covering. Chrome that oxidizes or develops rust spots during storage requires significantly more effort to restore than chrome that was protected before it sat, and a five-minute application of a quality chrome protectant prevents the issue entirely.
What to Check Last Before the FJ1200 Goes Into Winter Storage
Before covering the FJ1200 for winter, take a few minutes to look for any fluid that is dripping or seeping from anywhere it shouldn’t be. Check the area under the engine and transmission for oil, the front fork lower legs for hydraulic fluid from fork seals, the brake reservoirs for signs of overflow or seepage, and any areas where hoses connect for weeping under static pressure.
Lubricating the FJ1200’s drive chain before storage is a step that is easy to do now and prevents rust from forming on the chain’s side plates and rollers during the winter layoff. A chain that goes into storage with fresh lubricant between the side plates and on the rollers is far better protected against corrosion than one that stored dry or with old, dried lubricant that has cracked away from the metal surfaces.
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.