The Right Way to Winterize a 1974 Yamaha RD250
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The steps in this winterization guide are tailored specifically to the 1974 Yamaha RD250—a carbureted, kickstart, air-cooled motorcycle. Each section addresses what storage does to a specific system on a bike with this configuration, and why the preparation steps recommended here protect those systems over the months of inactivity a full winter layoff involves.
Why an Oil Change Before Winter Is Better Than Waiting Until Spring
Changing the oil on the RD250 before winter storage rather than at the start of spring is a timing choice that significantly benefits the engine’s condition over the storage period. Used engine oil accumulates acids from combustion blowby during the riding season, and these acids are present in the oil even when the engine isn’t running. The difference between storing an engine in fresh oil and storing it in used oil is the difference between the engine surfaces sitting in a neutral, protective lubricant for months or sitting in contact with an acidic fluid that has the opportunity to slowly etch metal surfaces over time.
Run the RD250 until fully warm before draining the oil for the pre-storage change—warm oil flows more completely from the sump and carries more contaminants with it than cold oil that has settled and thickened. Replace the oil filter at the same time; a used filter contains trapped contaminants that can leach back into the fresh oil over the storage period. After filling with fresh oil, run the engine briefly to circulate the new oil through the entire lubrication system before the bike is put away.
Carburetor and Fuel: The Most Important Winter Prep Step on the RD250
Carbureted bikes like the RD250 have a predictable winter storage vulnerability in the fuel system: raw, unstabilized gasoline sitting in the float bowl varnishes over a period of months, depositing a gummy residue that clogs the pilot jet and other small passages. The pilot jet controls fuel delivery at idle and low throttle and is the smallest orifice in the carburetor, making it the first to restrict when varnish accumulates. A spring startup that results in an engine that starts but immediately stalls or won’t idle is often a blocked pilot jet from unstabilized fuel sitting over winter.
Some riders prefer to drain the carburetor rather than run stabilized fuel through it. Either approach is effective, and the choice often comes down to how the petcock and float bowl drain are configured on the RD250. If the petcock has a reserve position and a drain port accessible without tools, draining the bowl is quick and leaves the internal jet passages dry and unexposed to degrading fuel all winter.
Protecting the RD250’s Tires Over the Winter Layoff
Tire condition going into winter storage on the RD250 sets the starting point for the first spring ride, and tires that are at or near the end of their service life before storage are not going to improve over winter. Assess both tires before storage: check tread depth and look at the sidewalls for cracking or checking that indicates age-related rubber hardening. A tire that is borderline before storage won’t be safe by spring if the riding season is to begin promptly, and planning a tire replacement now rather than scrambling for it in spring when everyone else is looking at tires is more practical.
The ideal storage situation for the RD250’s tires is with both wheels elevated off the ground using front and rear paddock stands. This takes all the weight off the tires and prevents flat-spotting entirely, regardless of how long the bike sits. For riders who store the bike on its side stand without paddock stands, the practical alternative is to roll the bike forward or backward a few inches every few weeks during storage so the contact patch location rotates around the tire, preventing any single section from bearing the bike’s weight for the entire winter.
Clean Before You Cover: Why Pre-Storage Washing Matters on the RD250
Putting the RD250 into winter storage clean matters for the condition of its finish by spring. The same road grime, brake dust, and insect residue that would be washed off at the end of any typical ride instead has months to sit in contact with paint and chrome when the bike is stored dirty. Brake dust in particular contains metallic particles that embed in paint surfaces and cause rust spots under the clear coat when left in contact with moisture over an extended period. A thorough wash before storage, followed by complete drying, removes these materials before they can cause finish damage.
After the RD250 is clean and dry, apply a light protectant to chrome and polished metal surfaces to slow oxidation during the storage period. Chrome that is clean and protected before storage comes out of winter looking significantly better than chrome that stored dirty or unprotected, because the protective film prevents moisture from accessing the metal surface during the months of inactivity. Use a breathable motorcycle cover for storage—a cover that allows moisture vapor to pass through rather than trapping it against the bike’s surfaces.
Last Checks Before Storage: Leaks, Chain, and What to Note
A final leak check before the RD250 goes into storage identifies any fluid issues that should be addressed before the bike sits for winter rather than in spring. Walk around the bike and look under the engine for oil drips, under the fork legs for hydraulic fluid streaks that indicate weeping fork seals, and around the brake master cylinders and calipers for brake fluid seepage.
Lubricating the RD250’s drive chain before storage is a step that is easy to do now and prevents rust from forming on the chain’s side plates and rollers during the winter layoff. A chain that goes into storage with fresh lubricant between the side plates and on the rollers is far better protected against corrosion than one that stored dry or with old, dried lubricant that has cracked away from the metal surfaces. Apply chain lubricant generously while rotating the rear wheel so the entire chain circumference is coated, and wipe away any excess from the rim or tire sidewall.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 1974 Yamaha RD250 Motorcycle.
Shop Batteries & Battery Chargers for a 1974 Yamaha RD250 Motorcycle.
Shop Oil and Fluids for a 1974 Yamaha RD250 Motorcycle.
Shop Tires for a 1974 Yamaha RD250 Motorcycle.
Shop Motorcycle Covers for a 1974 Yamaha RD250 Motorcycle.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
