Replacing a Cracked Fuel Line on Your 2017 Sportsman Touring 570
Shop parts for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Before a single clamp gets touched on a 2017 Sportsman Touring 570, understand what you are dealing with. This machine's ProStar 570 single is electronically fuel injected, so the hose in question carries pressurized gasoline supplied by a pump that sits inside the tank. Older carbureted quads let you close a petcock and walk away; this one holds pressure and will keep holding it until you deliberately bleed it off. Everything that follows depends on getting that first step right.
Bleeding Down and Opening the Machine Up
Pull the fuel pump fuse, then crank the starter until the engine coughs and quits. That burns off the pressure still sitting in the line. Turn the key off and disconnect the negative battery cable so nothing can energize the pump while your hands are in the fuel system. Now remove the seat and the side plastics that block access to the tank outlet and the hose run toward the throttle body.
With the machine open, slide a drain pan beneath the work area and keep a rag draped over whichever fitting you are about to break loose. A depressurized line is not an empty line, and the residual fuel comes out faster than most people expect.
Why the Hose Failed in the First Place
Fuel hose is only as flexible as the plasticizers blended into it, and those compounds bleed out over years of heat cycling next to a working engine. The rubber stiffens, loses its ability to absorb vibration, and eventually cracks — usually at a bend, or right where a clamp has been compressing the same ring of material since the machine was new. On a stretched two-up frame that flexes over rough terrain, this shows up sooner.
The other half of the story is fuel chemistry. Ethanol-blended gasoline pulls moisture out of the air and gradually breaks down the inner liner of the hose. A Sportsman Touring that sits for a few months with E10 in the system can develop a soft, degrading interior even while the exterior looks fine, and the material that sloughs off travels toward the injector. Dry, low-humidity climates make the outside harden faster on top of all that.
Symptoms You Should Never Ride Past
- A puddle, damp patch, or wet shine beneath the machine after it has been parked
- Gasoline smell hanging around the tank, sharpest right after you shut the engine down
- Fine cracking, chalkiness, or a hardened section you can feel by squeezing the hose
- Grime built into a dark ring at a fitting, which is dried fuel from a slow weep
- Bogging under load, hesitation when you snap the throttle, or lean surging at cruise
Keep in mind that an injected system can leak without leaving evidence on the ground. Fuel escaping under pressure often atomizes and evaporates, so a strong smell with a dry floor still means you have a problem.
Working the Old Line Free
Slide any worm-gear or spring clamps well back along the hose before you attempt to move the hose itself. If your Touring 570 uses a locking quick-connect at the tank, press the release tabs squarely with even pressure and pull straight off. Levering one of those collars sideways after years of exposure is a reliable way to snap it. At each barb, twist the hose gently to break the gum bond rather than pulling hard, and if it has effectively glued itself in place, slit it lengthwise with a razor and peel it away. Protecting the fittings is worth far more than saving a hose you are throwing out anyway.
Trace the routing carefully before the old piece is fully out. This model's longer wheelbase and its On-Demand AWD front driveline give the hose more clips, brackets, and clearance points to negotiate than a compact 2WD quad has. Photograph each one.
Installing the New Line the Right Way
Cut your replacement to match the original exactly. A long hose chafes on frame tubes or drops toward the exhaust; a short one stays under tension and slowly works itself off a barb. Push both ends on dry until they bottom out against the fitting shoulder. Do not lubricate anything — grease, oil, and silicone spray all create a slick path for pressurized fuel to escape past a clamp, which is the opposite of what you want. If the hose is too stiff to seat, soak the end in hot water for a few seconds.
Position new clamps just behind the raised bead on each fitting, tightening them firmly but not to the point of cutting into the rubber. On a self-locking quick-connect, push until it clicks and then tug hard enough to confirm engagement; that design seals itself and needs no clamp. Put the hose back in every original clip so it stays clear of heat and rotating parts.
Verifying the Job and Finishing Up
Refit the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off five or six times without cranking. Each cycle runs the pump and pressurizes the line, letting you inspect the connections under real working load while everything is still dry. Wipe both joints clean and look for beading or dampness. Start the engine, hold it at idle, and check again as heat builds, then turn the bars lock to lock to make sure nothing pulls or rubs.
One platform detail worth remembering: the fuel filter on this injected 570 is part of the in-tank pump assembly, not a serviceable inline piece on the visible hose. A new line fixes a leak, but if the machine still feels starved for fuel afterward, that internal filter deserves a look.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Fuel Lines for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Line Clamps for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Shop Petcocks for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Filters for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Shop Fuel Stabilizer for a 2017 Polaris Sportsman Touring 570 ATV.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.