Fuel Hose Renewal on a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 500

Shop parts for a 2014 Can-Am Renegade 500 ATV.

If you have owned your 2014 Renegade 500 for a while, the original fuel hose has now seen a lot of heat cycles, a lot of vibration, and a lot of ethanol blended pump gas. Replacing it is inexpensive insurance. Before you start, be clear on what this machine is: the Rotax twin runs electronic fuel injection, the pump sits inside the tank, and the supply line carries pressure any time the ignition is on. That rules out the simple petcock-and-drain approach a carbureted quad allows.

Confirming What Kind of Fuel System You Have

The distinction matters at nearly every step. A carbureted machine has a valve beneath the tank, gravity feed, plain barbed fittings with worm gear or pinch clamps, and a float bowl you can drain to empty the system. This Renegade has none of those. Turn the key and the in-tank pump immediately pressurizes the hose to the throttle body, and that pressure remains after shutdown until you deliberately relieve it. Fittings may be barbs with clamps or self locking quick connect couplers depending on location, and the fuel filter is part of the pump module inside the tank rather than an inline element on the visible line.

Why the Hose Wears Out

Rubber fuel line ages from the outside in and the inside out simultaneously. Externally, the plasticizers that keep it flexible slowly leach away, so the hose stiffens and eventually cracks under ordinary flex and the heat radiating off the V-twin. This happens faster in arid regions, where low humidity keeps pulling moisture out of the hose wall season after season.

Internally, ethanol in modern pump gas attracts water and chemically degrades the liner, leaving a soft, gummy layer that sheds debris toward the injectors. A Renegade parked for months with stale fuel in the system can suffer meaningful internal breakdown while the exterior still looks fine. Because of that mismatch, age is often a better replacement trigger than appearance.

What a Dying Line Looks and Sounds Like

Symptoms show up gradually. The most obvious is fuel puddling under the machine after it has been parked, followed closely by a gasoline smell around the tank that lingers well past shutdown. Look at the hose itself for fine cracking, a chalky surface, and hardening at bends and fittings, and confirm by pinching it – healthy line rebounds while aged line feels solid. On the running side, expect bogging under load, a lean stumble when you open the throttle, or an engine acting like the tank is nearly dry when it is not. A dust crusted ring at any fitting marks a slow seep that has been evaporating for a while. Because the system is pressurized, a small leak may atomize completely, so trust your nose when the floor stays clean.

Tools, Parts, and a Real Word About Gasoline

Gather the following:

  • Rubber or nitrile gloves for repeated fuel contact
  • A lidded container, metal or approved plastic, for drained fuel
  • Hose rated for injection pressure in the correct inside diameter
  • Fresh clamps, plus a release tool for quick connect couplers if your machine has them
  • Line clamping pliers to pinch off flow, since no fuel valve exists here
  • A razor knife, sockets for the seat and plastics, and plenty of rags

Ventilation is not optional. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air, pools near the floor, and finds pilot lights and spark sources you had forgotten about. Open the garage door fully or work outdoors, keep the fuel container sealed between pours, and disconnect the battery before any fitting comes loose.

Taking the Old Line Off

Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay first, then crank the engine briefly until it quits, which bleeds the pressure out of the supply hose. Turn the key off and disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the seat and side panels, then follow the hose from the tank fitting to the throttle body, noting every clip along the way.

Slide the catch pan underneath and drape a rag over each connection before you open it, because residual fuel remains even in a bled line. Move each clamp well back along the hose, then twist gently to break the varnish bond rather than yanking. Quick connect fittings come apart by pressing both locking tabs squarely and pulling straight; angled pulls crack aged plastic collars. When a hose end is truly stuck, slit it lengthwise and peel it away from the barb.

This is a 4x4 chassis, so the line runs past front differential hardware and extra frame structure that a two wheel drive quad does not carry, giving it a slightly longer path with additional clearance points. Photograph the routing before the old hose leaves the frame.

Fitting the Replacement and Checking Your Work

Cut the new hose to the same length as the original, no longer, so it cannot rub the frame or interfere with steering. Push each end all the way onto its barb until it bottoms out, installing it completely dry. Grease and lubricants belong nowhere near these sealing surfaces, since a film of anything slippery is precisely what lets pressurized fuel escape. A brief soak of the hose end in hot water solves any fitment struggle.

Set new clamps just behind the raised bead and tighten them evenly. Where a self locking quick connect is used at the tank, push until it clicks and then pull hard enough to confirm the latch caught; no clamp is needed there. Return the hose to its original clips, keeping clear of the driveline and hot exhaust.

To verify, reinstall the fuse, Reconnect the battery, and cycle the key on and off several times so the pump pressurizes the circuit while the engine stays off. Wipe both joints and inspect closely for weeping, then start the machine and recheck at idle for a few minutes. If fuel delivery still feels short after a leak free swap, the in-tank filter and pump assembly is the logical next thing to examine.

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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your ATV's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.