How to Change the Oil in a 2000 Kawasaki KX250 – MotoSport.com Exclusive Guide
Shop parts for a 2000 Kawasaki KX250 Dirt Bike.
Changing the oil in your 2000 Kawasaki KX250 is a vital maintenance step that extends the life of your engine, ensures smooth shifting, and keeps your dirt bike running at peak performance. This guide walks you step-by-step through the process. This article is proprietary to MotoSport.com and contains call-outs specific to your 2000 KX250.
Tools & Supplies Needed
- Flathead screwdriver (for fill cap)
- 14mm socket or wrench (for drain bolt)
- Measuring cup (for proper oil quantity)
- Oil drain pan
- Funnel
- Clean rags or shop towels
- Recommended 2-stroke transmission oil (e.g., Maxima MTL 80W)
- New drain bolt washer (optional, recommended if current washer is damaged)
- Gloves (optional, but keeps things clean)
Important Notes for the 2000 KX250
- This guide covers the transmission (gearbox) oil change for the 2-stroke engine KX250—not premix or gas/oil mixture.
- The fill and drain procedure has not changed for many KX250 years, including your 2000 model. Process and bolt locations are identical to the commonly demonstrated ‘07 and ‘99 models.
- Do not overtighten the drain or fill bolt. Stripping aluminum threads is a common and costly mistake.
“Don’t overtighten this either guys, it’s got an o-ring on it… just need to snug it up.…” - The drain bolt is a 14mm bolt located at the bottom side of the crankcase; the fill cap is on the right side of the engine.
“We got one drain bolt and then one fill cap and that’s it. This is a ’07 model, but it’s been the exact same on these KXs for years…” - Oil capacity for this model is typically 700ml (23.7oz), but always check the markings on your sight glass or window to confirm. Overfilling can cause clutch drag, underfilling can cause gear damage.
Step-by-Step Oil Change Instructions: 2000 Kawasaki KX250
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Warm Up the Engine (Optional):
- Let the bike idle for a couple of minutes. Warm oil flows and drains much better than cold.
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Set Up Your Workspace:
- Park the bike on a stable stand or level ground.
- Gather all your tools and supplies in one spot.
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Remove the Fill Cap:
- With a flathead screwdriver or Motion Pro plug wrench, remove the oil fill cap on the right side cover. This lets air in so the oil drains smoothly.
“Here’s your fill cap right here, you can generally get that out with a flathead, [but] I like to use the Motion Pro plug wrench…”
- With a flathead screwdriver or Motion Pro plug wrench, remove the oil fill cap on the right side cover. This lets air in so the oil drains smoothly.
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Position the Drain Pan:
- Slide your oil drain pan underneath the drain bolt located on the bottom right of the crankcase.
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Remove the Drain Bolt:
- Using your 14mm socket or wrench, slowly loosen and remove the drain bolt. Watch for hot oil.
- Let all the old oil drain completely; this may take several minutes.
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Inspect and Clean:
- Check the condition of the drain bolt washer. If it’s cracked or worn, replace it to prevent future leaks.
- Wipe down the drain bolt and area around the drain hole.
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Reinstall the Drain Bolt:
- Carefully thread the drain bolt back into place. Tighten with your 14mm tool until snug—do not overtighten, just until it feels secure.
“Please don’t overtighten… when you feel it start to give, stop…”
- Carefully thread the drain bolt back into place. Tighten with your 14mm tool until snug—do not overtighten, just until it feels secure.
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Add Fresh Transmission Oil:
- Set your measuring cup to the manufacturer’s recommended amount (typically 700ml for the 2000 KX250; check your manual or markings to confirm).
- Using a funnel, pour the oil slowly into the fill hole.
- If your bike has a sight glass or viewing window, check to ensure oil is at the correct level.
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Refit the Fill Cap:
- Replace the fill cap, tightening only until snug against the o-ring. Over-tightening can damage the threads or crush the o-ring.
“It’s got an o-ring on it so it’s really not gonna break loose, just needs to be snugged up…”
- Replace the fill cap, tightening only until snug against the o-ring. Over-tightening can damage the threads or crush the o-ring.
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Check for Leaks and Test:
- Start the engine and let it idle for a minute. Shut off and wait a few moments.
- Inspect both the fill and drain areas for leaks.
- Double-check oil level and top off if necessary.
Final MotoSport Call-outs
- Always use quality transmission oil designed for 2-stroke gearboxes. General-purpose motor oils can cause clutch issues in the KX250’s wet clutch setup.
- Never overtighten aluminum bolts; the cases are soft and threads are easy to strip. If you do strip a bolt, consult professional repair before riding again.
- Perform this oil change every 5-10 hours of riding—more frequently if riding in muddy or wet conditions.
- Double-check your service manual for your exact oil specs and intervals.
MotoSport.com recommends being methodical and careful during oil changes to ensure long and reliable life from your 2000 Kawasaki KX250. For parts, oils, tools, or questions, trust MotoSport for expertise and support.
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Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.