How to Change Brake Pads on a 2014 Kawasaki KLX110L
Shop parts for a 2014 Kawasaki KLX110L Dirt Bike.Quick brake system overview
The 2014 Kawasaki KLX110L uses a hydraulic disc brake setup common to modern dirt bikes: a brake lever or pedal connects to a master cylinder, which sends hydraulic pressure through a brake line to the caliper. The caliper squeezes brake pads against a steel rotor (disc) to slow the bike. Understanding those basic parts – lever or pedal, master cylinder, hydraulic line, caliper, pads and rotor – makes pad replacement straightforward.
When to replace brake pads on your KLX110L
- Reduced braking power or longer stopping distances.
- Squealing, whining or grinding noises when braking.
- Excessive lever or pedal travel before the brakes bite.
- Visible pad material worn thin – less than 1-2 mm of friction material.
- Heat discoloration or deep scoring on the rotor surface.
Inspect pads regularly after muddy trail rides, long sessions, or if you ride with heavy braking demands. The KLX110L is a lightweight trail/youth bike but still relies on good pads for control and safety.
What you'll need
- Replacement brake pads sized for the 2014 Kawasaki KLX110L
- Common hand tools – socket set, pliers, screwdriver or hex keys depending on retaining hardware
- Small container for retaining pins/clips
- Clean rag and isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner
- Optional: small C-clamp or piston tool to compress caliper piston
Step-by-step: Changing the brake pads
This guide assumes basic mechanical ability and a garage-level setup.
- Prepare the bike and workspace. Park on level ground, shut the engine off, and block the bike so it won't roll. Gather tools and new pads. Work in a clean, well-lit area.
- Support the bike. Use a small dirt bike stand or sturdy blocks under the frame to lift the wheel off the ground. For the front brake you may not need to remove the wheel on the KLX110L depending on caliper access; rear pad changes often require wheel removal for easier access.
- Remove the wheel if necessary. If the caliper is hard to reach, loosen axle hardware and remove the wheel following basic axle removal steps. Keep axle spacers and hardware in order for reassembly.
- Expose the caliper and retaining hardware. Locate the caliper pin/clip that holds the pads. On many small dirt-bike calipers you'll find a retaining pin and a spring clip or cotter. Use pliers or a screwdriver to remove the clip, then slide out the pin.
- Slide old pads out. Pull the pads straight out of the caliper. Note pad orientation and any shims for correct reinstallation. Place old pads in your parts container.
- Inspect rotor and caliper. Look for deep scoring, heat spots, or thick glazing on the rotor. Check the caliper for debris, corrosion, or leaks. Clean the rotor lightly with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and wipe dry.
- Compress the caliper piston(s). Before installing new pads you must push the piston(s) back into the caliper to clear space for the thicker new pads. Use a clean rag over the piston and a small C-clamp or a flat-blade tool turned slowly to push the piston back evenly. Avoid damaging the piston seal; press gently and evenly.
- Install new brake pads. Slide the new pads into the caliper in the same orientation as the originals. Make sure any anti-rattle spring or shims are in place.
- Reinstall retaining hardware. Insert the retaining pin and secure the clip or cotter. Confirm the pin is fully seated and the clip can't work loose.
- Reinstall the wheel and torque axle hardware. If you removed the wheel, reinstall it and tighten the axle to the proper snug feel for a KLX110L-level setup. Ensure wheel spins freely and the caliper clears the rotor.
- Restore hydraulic pressure. Pump the brake lever or pedal several times until firm. This moves the pads into contact with the rotor and restores usable braking feel.
- Final check. With the bike supported, squeeze the brake and confirm the rotor moves slightly and the wheel locks when the brake is applied. Recheck fasteners and retaining clip security.
Helpful inspection tips while you're in there
- Check rotor thickness and surface for deep grooves or warping.
- Look for brake fluid leakage at the caliper piston seal or hose fittings.
- Ensure the caliper slides freely on its pins; sticky slides can cause uneven pad wear.
- Clean mud and grit from the caliper bracket and piston area to prevent contamination.
- Confirm retaining pins and clips are not bent and fit snugly.
Bedding in new pads
Bedding pads creates an even transfer layer of pad material onto the rotor for consistent stopping and longer life. Perform several gradual, controlled stops from low speeds to moderate speeds – for example, five stops from walking speed to a moderate roll, then a few from ~15-20 mph down to a slow roll. Avoid hard emergency stops for the first few miles. Allow components to cool between repeated heavy stops to prevent glazing.
Notes on the KLX110L braking setup
The KLX110L, as a small-displacement trail/youth dirt bike, uses hydraulic disc brakes that are simpler than full-size motocross calipers but benefit from the same care — clean components, correct pad thickness, and properly seated pistons. If your model year has minor rotor or caliper styling differences, the procedure above still applies: remove retaining hardware, swap pads, compress pistons, reinstall and bleed only if the system has been opened. Routine pad inspections will keep braking predictable on trail, enduro-style rides and in mixed conditions.
After any pad change, do a final short ride to verify braking performance and that nothing is rubbing. Properly maintained brakes give confidence on the trail and safer control of your 2014 Kawasaki KLX110L.
Related Shopping Categories
Shop Brake Pads for a 2014 Kawasaki KLX110L Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Rotors for a 2014 Kawasaki KLX110L Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Lines for a 2014 Kawasaki KLX110L Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Bleeders for a 2014 Kawasaki KLX110L Dirt Bike.
Shop Brake Tools for a 2014 Kawasaki KLX110L Dirt Bike.
Disclaimer: This guide is provided for general informational purposes only and is not intended to replace your motorcycle's official owner's manual. Always refer to your manufacturer's documentation for model-specific instructions, torque specifications, safety procedures, and maintenance requirements. If you are unsure or inexperienced, consider seeking assistance from a qualified mechanic or technician.
